Input/feedback wanted for trailer build

[SasquatchMountain]

I figure this is the best place to ask based on the vast experience of the members. Ill start with the basics and then go into my idea. I’m looking for pros/cons, potential problems I havent thought about, etc. Nothing is set in stone. I’ve been thinking thru ideas but a fresh perspective is always helpful

my goal is to build an off-road style trailer that’ll be pulled by my gladiator. I’m planning on traveling the US and doing a bunch of hiking, hunting, fishing and checking out parts unknown. I want the trailer to act as my home/ base camp during this expedition. It’s only me and my little dog so I think i can maintain a small footprint and not really “want” for a whole lot. I have a pretty extensive skill set and there isn’t much i can’t fabricate. I’m planning on doing a 100% composite/ waterproof build. No wood to rot or warp and plenty of strength. I’m thinking steel frame for the trailer, aluminum framework, XPS and FRP for the box. The truck will get a backseat delete and platform. The bed will get a waterproof flush mount tonneau style lid with integrated slide out drawers. I’ll probably build an aluminum bed rail system to hold rotax, recovery mats, recovery gear in a pelican case and a hard top that will support my weight. It’ll make a nice lookout point/shooting platform.
I plan to build a swing out carrier that will hold a TW200. It’s a good emergency breakdown vehicle but should also give me a way to get into some size restricted areas the Jeep can’t enter.....and motorcycles are just plain fun.

My plan for the trailer is to match the track width of the Jeep. Enclosed wheel wells to give me a bit of extra space inside. All sizes are approximate, and I’m sure will change depending on what I really need for space. The box will be about 12’. 8’ of living space, 2’ on the rear for storage, 2’ on the front for mechanicals. 6’ of head room in the living compartment. I’m 5’8” so that’ll be comfortable. the spare tire may get put into the bed of the truck to shorten the trailer and distribute weight better.
ive gone back and forth between Dexter axle or Timbren. i don’t plan on running any super technical trails with the rig but want something capable. ill be running the same tires and wheels as the truck 37” Nitto Trail Grapplers.
25 to 30 gallons of fresh water. No black or grey water tanks. Laveo Dry flush toilet. Solar and batteries. Diesel furnace and 10 gal tank. I’ll plumb some extra ducts into the water, battery and storage areas to keep everything from freezing. I think I’ll need this since I’ll be in some cold weather for at least part of every year. Fridge/freezer. Here’s my first renderings to give a glimpse into my thought process.

have I completely overlooked anything? Send your critiques, alternatives or any thing else. I have thick skin so don’t worry about offending me.

 

[jwiereng]

If tongue weight is too low, you could swap the TW to the front and bikes on rear.

 

[Timbren]

Timbren being axle-less would be a huge deal even for the smallest of trails. Having less that could get hung up even on a small rock with greater ground clearance and flexibility. It will also provide you with the ability to take your trailer on some harder stuff down the road if you ever want to do more exploring.

 

[Teardropper]

You missed the other door. Assuming you have a significant other.

The two of you should try getting in and out of your bed on one side for three nights. And making the bed from one side.

Tony

 

[1000arms]

You missed the other door. Assuming you have a significant other.

The two of you should try getting in and out of your bed on one side for three nights. And making the bed from one side.

Tony

@SasquatchMountain might want to look at your book too. There are many positive reviews of it!

"Building a Teardrop Trailer: Plans and Methods for Crafting an Heirloom Camper"

 

[ricoisme26]

Have you considered axle location? I'm dreaming up a similar camper, not quite as large but I'd say bigger than a tear drop but no standing room inside. I similarly would like to carry a motorcycle (or tandem motorcycles) on the rear as you stated and I am uncertain on how far back to place the axle. Would an axle too far back negatively impact towing when the motorcycle is not loaded (increasing tongue weight while decreasing trailer weight)? in your situation would empty water tanks after a stint off grid lower the tongue weight to that point the trailer's towing characteristics were negatively impacted? Looking for anyone with some insight, perhaps they could help us both.

 

[jwiereng]

Moto close to the axle will have less impact on tongue weight than moto far from axle. Adjustable springs such as air bags might help with variable loads

 

[4000lbsOfGoat]

Your drawings show a canoe mounted next to your solar panels. That could end up putting the panels in the shade a lot of the time. If you plan to use this as a basecamp I recommend portable panels. They will give you a lot more flexibility in terms of where you set up and allow for more efficient harvest.

Six foot interior height on 37s is going to get rather tall - perhaps too tall to really be stable.

 

[SasquatchMountain]

Teardropper- No significant other hence the single door.

Ricoisme26- final axle location will be determined after I build. I’ll mount It temporarily and after the main build is done, tow it to the scale. I have one 1/4 mile from my house. After i weight it I can set the axle permanently. Water tanks will ride in the floor under the axle to hopefully prevent too many variables as it empties. It’s a big unit but I wanted something comfortable to live out of for a couple years. I think I’ll learn all of the pros/cons and improvements needed after a few years on the road.

4kgoat- canoe may end up on the truck. I’m not sure of the width of the canoe vs the width of the panels. Too much height is definitely a consideration.

 

[cmgraves]

first, the initial layout is really good and thought out. I like it.

and my 2 cents for your consideration:

• 6 foot interior on 37s is huge. Likely 2 feet taller than your tow vehicle. biggest concern is significantly increase with air drag and driving above 60mph.
  • also loading and accessing the top.
• side door looks really small. you want it to be a min. of 24" wide to be functional
• make sure you have 6" min from door edge and edge of awning for coverage (during rain, it always comes past awnings edge
• i would highly consider of having the back door opening fully, and when towing, trailer acts as a cargo trailer (to haul your bikes).
  • secured and protected and sooo much easier to load/unload
  • allows for the door to be opened when camped to have direct sunlight and view of nature. (that is how mine is and love it)
• If you do the back door opens as noted above, i would put the 270 awning above the roof level, and then the back part will have overlap above the trailer, and the awning will have better coverage when the door is open.
• Careful with connecting the dissimilar metals and risked of increase corrosion if the are touching.
  • I would consider an all aluminum build

and you have a very similar layout with trail maker trailer. Might want to look closer at their trailers for inspiration: https://www.trailmarkeroutdoors.com/

 

[Louisd75]

Teardropper- No significant other hence the single door.

Ricoisme26- final axle location will be determined after I build. I’ll mount It temporarily and after the main build is done, tow it to the scale. I have one 1/4 mile from my house. After i weight it I can set the axle permanently. Water tanks will ride in the floor under the axle to hopefully prevent too many variables as it empties. It’s a big unit but I wanted something comfortable to live out of for a couple years. I think I’ll learn all of the pros/cons and improvements needed after a few years on the road.

4kgoat- canoe may end up on the truck. I’m not sure of the width of the canoe vs the width of the panels. Too much height is definitely a consideration.

I recommend the canoe on the truck. Canoe on the trailer is handy if you can camp at the put-in, but my experience has been that I usually need to drive there. That would mean either moving the canoe from the trailer to the truck or breaking camp and taking the trailer with me to the put-in. Plus, my truck is usually already set up for taking the canoe when I don't have the trailer.