Increasing Tacoma's GVWR

laxtoy

Adventurer
the frames on the 95.5-04 tacomas are weakest after the front spring hanger on the rear leaf springs, as this is where they switch from fully boxed to a c channel. fab shops such as demello and cbi make frame reinforcement kits, essentially a plate you weld to the outside of the frame rail - case in point the link - http://www.demello-offroad.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=27_60 it is said to be a must for those who have a swing out tire carrier on a heavy after market rear bumper, or you will likely bend the frame at its weak point. i have had my truck loaded with almost 3/4 ton in the bed, not a real safe and secure feeling riding on the bump stops, and i have 1/2 ton springs in back and tundra brakes. the weak point i also feel is the bed sheet metal, pretty tinny, mine is pretty wavy as is the tale gate. i think the drive train on these trucks are pretty strong, but once you go with taller tires and a taller stance, you are putting stress on places such as steering components, ball joints, brakes and the transmission, so adding weight can't help too much. all said, i use my truck for work, and often have the bed filled with all of my tools, likely in the neighborhood of a half a ton, and it does pretty well (do need to regear, the clutch seems to be taking a pretty good beating on all the hills we have here). hope my info is helpful and i believe to the best of my knowledge accurate
 

Stealth 4x4

Adventurer
Cooling

Another thing to consider when increasing the amount of weight the vehicle has to carry around regularly is cooling. A transmission fluid cooler and/or an oil cooler are items that occasionally pop-up on people's builds. People who are used to hauling trailers tend to be more aware of the heat issue, such as with an auto trans if you haul a lot of weight with it. Small radiators that sit right in front of the factory rad to cool other fluids can be helpful. Might be something to consider, especially if your heavy rig is also pressed into service to pull a trailer behind it as well.
 

RMP&O

Expedition Leader
After driving 15,000 miles in my 04 Taco from Wyoming to Panama with a fully loaded truck I feel I can give you some solid advice.....


Frame plates: You want to add these in the rear. Behind the rear axle the frame is weak, buff it up or you may regret it!

Brakes: I put on all new brakes before the 15k mile trip. When I got home my fronts were toasted. The pads were not done but the rotors were glazed and had warped. I just did a Tundra brake upgrade and it is a huge difference! Front brakes on the Taco are weak so I highly suggest you upgrade them!

Suspension: I have front Icon coilovers with Total Chaos uppers. I also have an ARB bumper up front but no winch. In front my suspension is excellent, no problems at all. In the rear I have a Deaver 8-leaf pack and some air bags. Without the air bags the leaf pack is way to light duty and soft. My air bags have given me dramas, I have AirLift right now and hate them! Many guys say the OME rear leaf pack with an overload spring is the best. I am going to put in new air bags, more than likely Firestone and possibly upgrade to an OME rear leaf pack. I have a 19.5gal fuel tank behind the rear axle, a custom CBI bumper with tire carrier and a beefy camping platform built into my bed. My current suspension is not cutting it with all the extra weight!

Transmission: I can't comment on the manual since I have an auto but...At the least you want a tranny cooler if you have the auto. My tranny took the trip and is still good, now with over 120k miles on the truck. Yet, I feel that upgrading the valve body and also the torque converter is a very good idea and mod to do. In a manual I would think you would want to buff up the clutch.

Diffs: I have no diff mods. I did however do all new wheel bearings before the 15k trip. If you find a need to buff up the diffs there is tons available. Some stronger axle shafts is all I think you would ever need. If my diffs ever give me problems I think I will do some upgrades, until then no worries for me.

Steering is pretty important too even if not needing to be upgraded to carry more weight. More weight is going to put more strain on the steering componets, rough roads even more so. Mine was tight and good before the trip, after it I had one toasted tie rod. If nothing else keep the steering in mind!
 

drbeemer73

New member
I am having built a fully equipped off road camper Tacoma, and it is coming in above GVW, in spite of my trying everything to keep it below GVW. (I even found titanium tire irons :)
NOTE that I live in PA, but the following may be applicable to those living in other states:
In PA one can apply for an "enhanced vehicle inspection", but only at certain state approved inspection stations that perform this function. I am told it involves getting certified weights of the vehicle prior to and after the modifications, pictures of the vehicle, and a complete vehicle inspection to insure the vehicle is completely safe. My investigations have revealed that this is a completely viable option for my vehicle and results in the title & registration being altered to reflect this change to a new higher GVW.
I am elated about this prospect!
See
and
OR Google PA Enhanced Vehicle Inspections"

HTH someone else.
 

DaveInDenver

Middle Income Semi-Redneck
Pretty sure only a recognized manufacturer can change the GVWR of a vehicle and lacking that you're going to probably need an engineer to write and stamp documents defending the modifications. It would I believe get a new VIN at that point. The original manufacturer certified the truck VIN and they'd have to be the one to adjust it legally. If they won't then you or someone down the line has to be the new manufacturer under the FMVSS rules.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: bkg

DaveInDenver

Middle Income Semi-Redneck
increasing the (rated/legal) GVWR..... Cannot be done. Period.
It can be done just not by any Joe filing a DMV form though. There are reasons an OEM might adjust GVWR but it's usually down to change its class for vehicle registration (usually to make it cheaper) or to make it legal to operate by a lower class of driver or on different roads.

Also GVWR is sometimes up to the last manufacturer of record, things like up fitters doing bodies and RVs. That's based on the chassis so I have to think they'll keep the original GVWR and probably won't be increased. The vehicle tare and payload is what is left TBD since the OEM just delivered a cab-and-chassis.

Modifying a vehicle into a limo or adding armor might increase GVWR but there will be a cognizant engineer and the company is a recognized remanufacturer.
 
Last edited:

phsycle

Adventurer
I am having built a fully equipped off road camper Tacoma, and it is coming in above GVW, in spite of my trying everything to keep it below GVW. (I even found titanium tire irons :)
NOTE that I live in PA, but the following may be applicable to those living in other states:
In PA one can apply for an "enhanced vehicle inspection", but only at certain state approved inspection stations that perform this function. I am told it involves getting certified weights of the vehicle prior to and after the modifications, pictures of the vehicle, and a complete vehicle inspection to insure the vehicle is completely safe. My investigations have revealed that this is a completely viable option for my vehicle and results in the title & registration being altered to reflect this change to a new higher GVW.
I am elated about this prospect!
See
and
OR Google PA Enhanced Vehicle Inspections"

HTH someone else.

Not that easy. Or even possible.
From page 16:

1579019205222.png
 

bkg

Explorer
It can be done just not by any Joe filing a DMV form though. There are reasons an OEM might adjust GVWR but it's usually down to change its class for vehicle registration (usually to make it cheaper) or to make it legal to operate by a lower class of driver or on different roads.

Also GVWR is sometimes up to the last manufacturer of record, things like up fitters doing bodies and RVs. That's based on the chassis so I have to think they'll keep the original GVWR and probably won't be increased. The vehicle tare and payload is what is left TBD since the OEM just delivered a cab-and-chassis.

Modifying a vehicle into a limo or adding armor might increase GVWR but there will be a cognizant engineer and the company is a recognized remanufacturer.

Correct. I should have stated "GVWR cannot be legally increased by the lay-person"...
 

Dalko43

Explorer
I don't understand why people try to re-engineer their vehicles to become more capable.

If you want more payload capability, just get a truck that offers that from the factory...Tundra might be a good place to start looking.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
185,828
Messages
2,878,638
Members
225,393
Latest member
jgrillz94
Top