I'm not a gear head... would an LR3 be for me?

charlatan

New member
Well, I am starting to dig in for a new SUV / mild off-roader (no rock crawling). I am looking for something more powerful than my current V6, and I am not content to pay the 'toyota' tax.
I have been looking at some 97-05 Chevy suburbans (one Diesel), which I believe are relatively inexpensive to repair if needed. However, they are massive and I am not sure I want to deal with in town parking.
An LR3 seems to tick the power box, offers a better interior and they're reasonably priced. BUT, I've been stuck in that perception that these things break all the time, or that I'll get stuck somewhere.
The air suspension scares the hell out of me. All conjecture and stories of $$$$ to replace.
Are parts hard to come by?
Maybe there are some reasonable shops in Denver to get work done when needed?
Timing belt / chain? I haven't dug in on this one yet.
Eating up bushings - am I in for big $ replacements?

I know... no guarantees. Talk me off the ledge :)
 

Gonzo

New member
My LR3 was awesome - very few issues outside ones I helped to produce (off-road, poor mechanic skills...). Here’s the thing, simple things like a break job are stupid expensive on these rigs. Like several grand. So if you can solve for basic maintenance items and only bring to a shop when a big item goes wrong then I think it’s a good vehicle IMHO. Very capable even in stock form and had lots of straightforward “upgrades”.

Disclaimer: I sold my LR3 with 75k miles on it several years ago so perhaps someone who still has one in the 100k+ club is better suited to give you their perspective.

Good luck!

Brian
 

krick3tt

Adventurer
All vehicles are sometimes in need of repairs. Carefully search and examine your purchase and get records of the work done on your choice and you will more than likely be pleased with the LR platform.
I have had an LR3 for about 8 years now, purchased used and after taking care of some neglected items it is in fine shape. Initial repairs were done by myself and a friend that is a LR tech.
The air ride suspension is a real boon to off road travel for me. As for breaking all time, that is a myth in my opinion. Of course that may depend on how rough you beat it.
There are people that sell used parts of of salvaged LRs, I get some of mine from a local guy. There are shops in Denver that will repair and maintain your LR for you but there are things that you may be able to do yourself once you actually dive in. Get the IID tool for an avenue to easier diagnosed issues and it will save you many $$$$ in simple repairs.
I am a mild off roader as well and although there have been some rocky places the LR performs well and experience is the best teacher.
Find like minded folks and go out with them for secure feeling at the start of your adventures.
Do not use cheap gas, these take 91 octane and do not like the cheap regular gas. If that inhibits you then perhaps something less demanding might be your better bet. I did not buy this for the gas milage so I really don't think about that aspect.
Lots of info here: https://landroverforums.com/forum/
also here: atlantic british videos How to fix stuff, you can also request something specific.
parts: https://www.partsgeek.com/makes/land_rover.html?gclid=CKWf6qe6y8kCFQ2UaQodCD4JFA&ad=40263579372
 
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XJLI

Adventurer
I like Chevys. But a 25 year old Chevy is going to need more repairs than a 15 year old Land Rover. If you’re looking at anything of that age, it is going to need repairs, even Toyota’s. So either be ready to pay a mechanic or watch a lot of YouTube videos.
 

krick3tt

Adventurer
Sometimes making a decision like this is difficult but exploring many option will help. I applaud your searching for information to really refine your choice.
Whatever you choose I hope it serves you well. Let us know, now that we are invested in your decision the curiosity is there.
 

Dogpilot

Active member
Personally, I have had 9 different Land Rovers here in the USA, a few more overseas. I find them easy to fix and the parts, especially if you buy Proline ones, very reasonable. The stories about air suspension repairs are a bit the result of non-mechanical types being, lets say "swindled" by mechanics. It sounds complicated, but in reality is quite simple and reliable. A lot more reliable than Land Cruiser manual transmissions (I killed 6 on my last project in Borneo). To put it in perspective, on my full sized Range Rover, if you get a suspension fault, you simply go to the 4x4 information page (The LR3's of certain trim levels have the same system) and look at the position of the suspension and the inputs of the level sensors. It points out the offending unit. The level sensors are the leading problem, they cost a whopping $22 each and take almost 15 minutes to replace. The air shocks themselves are also not so pricy if you get aftermarket ones and really not any more different than chasing any strut on any 4x4.

Any older used car is a crap shoot. If you have mechanical skills, then most of it is easy to put some value added to the vehicle. Older vehicles also have a larger presence in wrecking yards for even cheaper parts. The LR3 is really nice off road and a decent around the town truck. Not too terrible on gas, but not too great either. I got the LR4 for my son when he moved back from Australia last year and it proved to be great both for skiing and transporting his growing family. Yes he had to do a small laundry list of minor repairs. He is slightly handy so not too much a problem.
 

Eric K

Observer
I too was scared to death of the Land Rover reliability, but I've had my LR3 for 6 years now and the only expensive repairs (for me that means over a grand), I have had were replacing the lower control arms + bushings ($1100-1300), and the roof glass broke (3 grand). That first repair needs to be done about every 80k (bushings, not sure you really need to replace the LCAs which would probably make it much cheaper). I don't know for certain, but I believe I was kind of responsible for the second one and fortunately was covered by insurance, so only cost me $500. My next most expensive repair was $850 to replace the air compressor and I absolutely caused that one as I hit it hard. Still it worked for 2 years after I hit it, but I could tell that repair was coming. The sound it made airing up was different the instant I did it. When I purchased my LR3 it was 9 years old with 70+ thousand miles, so I knew some repairs were coming. All in all, it's been a pretty good reliable vehicle for me, I have just over 120k on it. If you take away the things that I broke, it's had the pretty standard repairs for a vehicle over 100k.
 

catmann

Active member
I have a 2008 LR3 bought used Oct 2013 with 96,000 miles on it. I know have 174,xxx miles on it. I paid $15,500 plus tax tags title and as of today I have spent just over $20,000 in maintenance. So roughly $37000 for 8.5 years and 78,000 miles.

I have never been left sitting or had any emergency issues, but as stated about, there is always something that could use attention. I did some preventative maintenance such as the driveline fluids replaced twice so far, two sets of control arms, three sets of tires, all sorts of little odds and ends (pulleys, brake lines, gas tank shield etc). Some work I did myself, a majority by an Indy shop. I would not call the LR3 unreliable by any means as I would not hesitate to take it anywhere at any distance, but there is definately a contant stream of maintenance. My D2 was the same way but had a lot more engine related work where the LR3 engine is solid.

The first owner had the compressor replaced before I bought it and I have had zero air suspension issues so far.
 

Marine_Diesel

New member
Yes, it’s for you, and gradually, without knowing you’ll learn how to do simple stuff and then without realizing it you’ll have crossed over to the dark side.

Remember a rover doesn’t leak oil, it marks its territory

stu.
 

MarcusBrody

Active member
I have a 2008 LR3 bought used Oct 2013 with 96,000 miles on it. I know have 174,xxx miles on it. I paid $15,500 plus tax tags title and as of today I have spent just over $20,000 in maintenance. So roughly $37000 for 8.5 years and 78,000 miles.

I have never been left sitting or had any emergency issues, but as stated about, there is always something that could use attention. I did some preventative maintenance such as the driveline fluids replaced twice so far, two sets of control arms, three sets of tires, all sorts of little odds and ends (pulleys, brake lines, gas tank shield etc). Some work I did myself, a majority by an Indy shop. I would not call the LR3 unreliable by any means as I would not hesitate to take it anywhere at any distance, but there is definately a contant stream of maintenance. My D2 was the same way but had a lot more engine related work where the LR3 engine is solid.

The first owner had the compressor replaced before I bought it and I have had zero air suspension issues so far.
Hmm, that's sounds like a lot for nothing major going wrong, but I guess it is only 2.5k a year. How much were the tires? What were the other big ticket items? Control arms aren't THAT expensive according to most reports here.
 

XJLI

Adventurer
Hmm, that's sounds like a lot for nothing major going wrong, but I guess it is only 2.5k a year. How much were the tires? What were the other big ticket items? Control arms aren't THAT expensive according to most reports here.

Doesn't sound like a crazy number if nothing was DIY and all done at a shop.
 

catmann

Active member
I know it's crazy but it just adds up. DIY stuff was a new gear shifter assembly as the sunroof was cracked open during a heavy rain and even though I only saw one tiny dot of water in the morning, the harness under the center console corroded literally overnight (long story). I also replaced the cabin blower fan as it died. The rest was at the Indy shop, which is still @$100/hr (maybe a bit more now) but much less than the $160 or so the dealer was last time I checked.

Oil/filter changes, two differential and transfer case fluid changes, couple sets of brakes and rotors, serpentine belt and tensioner, 3 sets of tires, tie-rod ends, alignments, brake booster (which is a rare one on LR3's), 2 windshield cowls, 2 batteries, throttle body cleaning, coolant expansion tank, hood latch, rear park sensor harness and 1 sensor, thermostat, water pump, fuel tank cradle, rear brake lines, anti-corrosion stuff to part of rear frame, two or three wheel bearings/hubs (can't fully recall). Nothing drastic, just "stuff" that needed attention at one point or another...I did not even change the oil pan yet, just a fluid change from the top a while back, I am a bit leary of causing any issues there and so far everything still seems solid/smooth.
 

NorthwestDriver

Active member
I know it's crazy but it just adds up. DIY stuff was a new gear shifter assembly as the sunroof was cracked open during a heavy rain and even though I only saw one tiny dot of water in the morning, the harness under the center console corroded literally overnight (long story). I also replaced the cabin blower fan as it died. The rest was at the Indy shop, which is still @$100/hr (maybe a bit more now) but much less than the $160 or so the dealer was last time I checked.

Oil/filter changes, two differential and transfer case fluid changes, couple sets of brakes and rotors, serpentine belt and tensioner, 3 sets of tires, tie-rod ends, alignments, brake booster (which is a rare one on LR3's), 2 windshield cowls, 2 batteries, throttle body cleaning, coolant expansion tank, hood latch, rear park sensor harness and 1 sensor, thermostat, water pump, fuel tank cradle, rear brake lines, anti-corrosion stuff to part of rear frame, two or three wheel bearings/hubs (can't fully recall). Nothing drastic, just "stuff" that needed attention at one point or another...I did not even change the oil pan yet, just a fluid change from the top a while back, I am a bit leary of causing any issues there and so far everything still seems solid/smooth.

From seeing service records on my LR3 under previous ownership, $2500-3000/yr is a typical average. However, when I look at my service records and this list, most repairs are within the ability of an owner with slight mechanical interest and free weekends. Labor is easily 1/2 to 2/3 of those cost. Savings can be even greater if not using LR stamped parts while still using OEM.

I try to DIY everything I can on vehicles so I don’t feel the hit as badly when a fix is beyond my ability and needs an experienced mechanic. For me, it makes the difference between being able to own a vehicle for 15+ years and needing to buy a new one every 5-10. It also means one can take the plunge and buy a well serviced 10 year old vehicle and plan to keep it for a while.
 

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