Igor: Double Cab 4x4. Frankensteins Helper

Blackdawg

Dr. Frankenstein
So I guess its time to start this thread. Meet Igor:


Front diff-2.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
RearLift-3.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

This is my Daily driver Tacoma but will slowly be modified to do my long distance more Overland/Expo trips. Frankenstein, while he has served me well on these trips, is just becoming too much of a true rig/race truck to drive long long distances on the highway. I'm hoping to take the knowledge and experience i have learned in building Frank to really make Igor and capable yet comfortable truck.

RearLift-2.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

MODS:

  • Suspension
    • Extended Travel King 2.5 Coilovers-No preload
    • 8 leaf Alcan leafs with Fox Factory series piggy back resi shocks
    • OME Grease able Shackles Stock Height
    • Wheelers super bumps front with custom shims
    • Wheelers rear super bump kit

  • Wheels/Tires
    • Stock 16'' Alloy rims on 265/75r16 Hancooks
    • 2nd genTRD Sport alloys with 255/80r17s
    • Allpro 1.5" spacers up front

  • Armor
    • FrankenFab Sliders

  • Interior
    • Steelie Ball Phone Mount
    • Custom mounted RAM ball phone mount on A pillar
    • Panavise dash mount
    • Mob Armor X mount
    • Shock Industries sound deadener

  • Exterior
    • None yet
    • Custom pinstripes

  • Comms
    • Icom 5100
    • Rasberry PI with DVAP + Cell phone for portable Digital Repeater
    • Uinden 520xlpro CBI radio, BAMF tail gate mount modified for a nimo mount
    • Motorola GM300 hacked to 149.390 and TNC for APRS
    • Samsung Tab4 running Backcountry Navigator

  • Recovery
    • Basic tool kits
    • Viar 50p Portable air Compressor
    • Delta Tool Box
  • Other
    • Stock Bed Extender
    • 12v Plug in Bed behind Tail Light
    • CVT Summit Series Mt. Shasta extended on Relentless fab bed bars
More to come.
 

Blackdawg

Dr. Frankenstein
My First mod was the Steelie Car mount. Works great. I love it! It uses a large steel ball bearing sort of and a magnet you attach to your phone. It works great with my phone but larger phones it doesn't work well on.

Igor.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

This is all it is!

Igor-2.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
Igor-3.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
Igor-4.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

This is where i mounted the ball

Igor-5.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
Igor-6.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
Igor-7.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
Igor-8.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Phone sticks right on! Yes..my screen is broken..well..was. I have since repaired it.

Igor-9.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
Igor-10.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Very easy to see when driving

Igor-11.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
Igor-12.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
 

Blackdawg

Dr. Frankenstein
Spent memorial day weekend with my good buddy Marc working on trucks. Mostly his. But he did show me how to rebuild a coilover, was pretty easy actually. And now i have Kings in my DD :cookiemonster:

I bought these Kings used from a friend, he bought them used. They where leaking and he ended up buying some new ADS coilovers instead of rebuilding these. So i bought them and all the parts!

Igor.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Perfect start to a simple build of the other truck.

First order of business was to get the coils off. Went and rented a coil compressor and alas..did not fit.

Igor-2.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

I really need to build a coil compressor for the press..

anyways, Marc had his own way of doing it. Which works quite well using ratchet straps.

Igor-3.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
Igor-4.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
Igor-5.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
Igor-6.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

After looping three in, just start sucking doing the coil.

Igor-7.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

And done!

Igor-8.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
Igor-11.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
Igor-9.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Getting the straps off the coil takes some team work though..

Igor-10.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Dissemble time

Igor-12.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

But first we reset the preload on the King 600lb coils to almost nothing.

before

Igor-13.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

after

Igor-14.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Did 1 thread on the passenger side and 3 on the driver side to start.

Now time to take them apart. Start with the tiny set screw. Don't strip it or you will have a sad sad day...also..gross seal!

Igor-15.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Then the blue cap unscrews revealing the innards. And for me, a slight problem.

Igor-16.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

This is the snap rig that holds in the outer seal head....it is not supposed to be like this. No wonder it was leaking

Igor-17.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
Igor-18.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
 

Blackdawg

Dr. Frankenstein
It did cause some damage...

Igor-19.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Nothing catastrophic though.

We cleaned up the burrs and all was well.

1 of the shafts was a bit pitted so we had new shafts to go in. However, due to a slight mix up...somewhere a long the line, we didn't get the right shafts...the new ones are a bit...long haha

Igor-20.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

So we ended up not replacing the shafts.

Note also in the photo above how things are laid out. As you dissemble things, lay them out in order. So you don't forget what goes where. Then just replace the seals you have with the new ones, oil them before install. And resemble the shock. Pretty easy.

Setting the IPT in the body is important though. We calculated it out using the shaft and how deep the IPT sat bottomed out and raised it up about and inch i think it was with nitro.

After some more cleaning we were done!

Igor-21.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

so purty..

then put the coils back on!

Igor-22.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

After that, was a simple install. I am in dire need of some UCAs now though as these are extended travel. Luckily i don't go offroad with it so im not supper concerned about over extending the the uppers for now. But UCAs are in the works.

I ended up having to remove the sway bar just to get them in ha..i was so sad :rolleyes:

Before

Igor-23.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
Igor-24.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
Igor-25.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

wore out stock crap..

Igor-26.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
Igor-27.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Old vs New

Igor-28.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

I'll take the blue one please!

Igor-29.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
Igor-30.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr


For free...haha

Igor-31.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

plenty of droop now..won't ever use it for quite a while though.

Igor-32.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Done!

Igor-33.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
Igor-34.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
Igor-35.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

considering i was at like..negative amount of lift and gained about 2'' overall. Its perfect. Rides SOOOOOO much better then before its not even funny.

Can't wait to get the rear setup dialed up.

I also did some welding on Marcs rig :cool: put in a limit strap and spindle gusset. Im sure he will have the full details in his build for you to read, but i just wanna share weld porn :D

BigCheeseWelding-5.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
BigCheeseWelding-6.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
BigCheeseWelding-8.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
BigCheeseWelding-9.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr


Was a fun weekend!!
 

Blackdawg

Dr. Frankenstein
It then took me a while to do the rear. Mike had given me his old 8 Leaf Alcans that Wheelers used to sell as part of a deal for the rear bumper i build him. I say used too, because while you can still get Wheelers 8 leafs they are not made by Alcan anymore. Mostly because i really wanted to do the TC rear relocation kit with 10'' shocks. But i ran out of time and kinda money so i settled for some used Foxes that will work just fine for at least a year.

My rear leafs did NOT want to come out..had to cut them off. Must be an 01-04 thing because I had to do this to Bens leafs too but didn't to Franks original leafs...

6'' Cut off wheel worked the best i found

RearLift-30.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

On to the upgrade!

RearLift-4.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

I started by pulling the poly bushings out of the leafs. Nothing was seriously wrong with them. But i figured, what the hell. Might as well put new ones in.

RearLift-2.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
RearLift-3.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr


Here is a tidbit that i think some people don't really know about. You are supposed to use Lithium based grease on Poly bushings. Other grease's can break down the poly and make the deteriorate quickly.

RearLift-5.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

I used the Daystar front main eye bolts that are grease able with poly bushings

RearLift-6.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
RearLift-7.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Each bolt has a zert on it already. I found out later these are the press in kind.

RearLift-8.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Its good to try and clean these up as best as possible then apply as small amount of grease on the inside and to the bushings before pressing in by hand. A little grease will go a long ways and make this an easy install.

RearLift-13.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
RearLift-9.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Do the same to get the sleeve's in

RearLift-10.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

For the rear i bought the wheelers Grease able shackle kit. Which really is just the OME kit with different bushings to fit OEM rear eyelets instead of the OME leafs.

RearLift.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
RearLift-11.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

And would you look at that. See I wasn't lying

RearLift-24.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

I really like how the OME grease able bolts have screw in zerts. You will see why later..

RearLift-16.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
RearLift-17.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Lil grease on the bushings to install again..

RearLift-12.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Seriously this is all it takes and it helps a ton. Shock bushings too!

RearLift-14.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Clean and grease the eyelet on the frame too...man..Missouri is being harsh to my once rust free frame :oops:

RearLift-15.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Put the bushings in first, then slide the bolt in. Apply a small amount of grease to everything as done before.

RearLift-18.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

I put the zert on the outside for easy of access to grease.

RearLift-19.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Do the same on the rear eyelet of the leafs

RearLift-20.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Leaf spring issues...

RearLift-21.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
RearLift-22.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
 

Blackdawg

Dr. Frankenstein
Nothing a sawzall can't fix!

RearLift-23.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Bolt up the shackles! The torque spec is 116ft lbs for the front bolt. 67ftlbs for the shackles

RearLift-25.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
RearLift-26.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

I got new U bolts to boot. The WHeelers 7.75'' ones. Probably could have gotten the shorter ones, but these where fine.

RearLift-27.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
RearLift-28.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr


Then i got the grease gun and grease everything up. The gun pulled a zert out of one of the Daystar front bolts though...not cool. But i'll get a new one.

RearLift-29.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

I scored some fox shocks off of here from @SlipperyTaco and even though the mail lost them for a bit he called the post office and they showed up a few days later! Thanks man :cheers: These things are practically new. I ended up installing them while camping actually..ha!

RearLift-31.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
RearLift-32.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
RearLift-33.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
RearLift-34.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Looking to get some UCAs next and still want to do the TC relocation out back with ADS shocks.

How the stance is now! I like it.

RearLift.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
RearLift-2.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
RearLift-3.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
RearLift-4.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
 

Blackdawg

Dr. Frankenstein
Update time!

Ive had these parts for about 3 months now and it seemed like it was time to get them in. I installed a Bussman Relay box and some ditch lights. Gonna try and do a write up as usual but may be missing photos. Oh well.

This being the 2nd tacoma build and the thousandth time ive done wiring on a tacoma. I REALLY wanted to do it 100% right and be super clean. So I went all out on this.

I did very little if not any fab work of my own. Bought stuff from places mostly. Was expensive compared to how i usually operate, but worth it I think. Here is my list of components I purchased.


On too the photos. Sorry I skipped some as some things are obvious or ive covered it in my other build thread.

The bussman unit looks great and is made just like in the writeup which was helpful to refer to on how it was wired.

Thread is here: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diy-build-and-install-a-bussmann-rtmr-fuse-relay-block.399454/

BussmanDitchlights-4.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
BussmanDitchlights-5.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Riley even labeled the outputs.

This is for Fused Relay

BussmanDitchlights-8.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

and just fused

BussmanDitchlights-9.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

The round yellow terminals are all grounds while the multi pinned plug is for the switch harness.

The Paranoid Fab stuff was great too. I ended up scuffing up the face of the switch panel and putting about 5 coats of black paint on it. I didn't paint the bussman bracket, they are aluminum so won't rust and didn't want to bother with it.

Cool logo :alien:

BussmanDitchlights-2.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
BussmanDitchlights-3.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
BussmanDitchlights-6.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
BussmanDitchlights-7.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Spare circuit breaker we had lying around. The Bussman box i guess is only rated for 80 amps though. Oh well.

BussmanDitchlights-10.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

This was the only "major" problem i found with the bussman box Riley made. He had not only crimped all the ends, but had soldered them. On this connector he used a bit too much and it flowed up to the tip which means the male pins couldn't slide in. I was able to break it loose though with a small screw driver. He took the problem well and learned something and I didn't mind.

BussmanDitchlights-11.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

If you go through the whole writeup on how to make a Bussman, you see he bolts two ground buses to the outside of the Bussman box. Well the Paranoid bracket for us 1st gens doesn't have the room.

But i noticed the buss bars mounting holes are pretty much identical. So i figured i could mount them on the same spots.

But the Bus bars holes are bigger so i just decided to step up to a 1/4'' bolt. That meant pressing the brass fittings out of the bussman.

BussmanDitchlights-12.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Had to drill out the bussman a bit and the bracket

BussmanDitchlights-13.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

These are the bus bars.

BussmanDitchlights-14.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Now im not a big fan this wiring setup because that means i have to ground everything right here AND i have to run power and ground wire to my accessories. But, whatever. It turns out good.

Went and got some 1/4''x1'' bolts and nuts. Should have gotten 1/4''x3/4'' though. But everything lined up and fit.

BussmanDitchlights-15.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Then i ran the ground wires across to the opposite sides. Would have been much nicer if the wires could have gone to the same side but the wires where just a touch short for that to make the angles work.

BussmanDitchlights-16.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Drilled two holes for the relay and cut up and crimped up some 4ga wire for power and ground.

Came out nice.

BussmanDitchlights-32.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

You can barely see it but i have a small chunk of 4ga running from ground bus 1 to the bus 2

BussmanDitchlights-33.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

And here are the parts for the output harnesses. I used some 2 pair wire and made a nice harness for my LED pods and put the connector on the other side.

BussmanDitchlights-17.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Now for the LED install and brackets. I won't go into major detail on these as i did with Frankenstein. But i do want to show how to do part of it as these fenders are much different. The 01-04 front fenders are a ***** to totally take off, i guess. So the easiest thing is to just pull the top part up.

Take the three bolts on top of the fender out.

BussmanDitchlights-20.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

And then this guy inside of the door

BussmanDitchlights-21.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Then grab the fender a pull up, it works well to wedge something under the lip about where the middle bolt is to hold up the fender. I used a screwdriver.

BussmanDitchlights-22.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
BussmanDitchlights-23.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Should be able to access the two hood bolts nowwith a ratchet and 3'' extension and shallow 12mm socket.

BussmanDitchlights-24.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Then its pretty simple. Undo the bolts, set the brackets on, start trimming the cowling till the bracket fits. Then use the CBI supplied bolts and bolt it up.

Don't put the fender back yet, you'll want it open to get the wiring harness out.

I ran the harness through these holes into the fender well and the pulled it up to the top. There is a hole on each side in the exact same spot.

BussmanDitchlights-5.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
 

Blackdawg

Dr. Frankenstein
To help pull the harness up to the top i came up with kind of a cool trick. Otherwise its a major PITA with the fender skirt still in.

Get some magnets, we have a stack of small super powerful earth magnets, some electrical tape, and a magnetic extension rod.

BussmanDitchlights-25.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Tape the magnets to the end of the wire harness

BussmanDitchlights-26.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
BussmanDitchlights-27.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Waalaa!

BussmanDitchlights-28.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr


However....they are magnets...and the fender is..steel...but with just a little bit of fanageling, a hell of a lot less then without the magnets, you'll get it attached. I put the extension magnet in from the door side.

BussmanDitchlights-29.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Plus then it holds the harness while i get the lights :D

BussmanDitchlights-30.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Then i bolted the lights on. They mount nicely with a cool and simple mounting setup. However the bolt is super super small compared to the hole the CBI brackets are drilled for. So i used two stainless fender washers and all was well.

BussmanDitchlights-6.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

I like the lights.

BussmanDitchlights-2.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
BussmanDitchlights.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Here is a shot of the trimmed cowling.

BussmanDitchlights-3.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

I have lots more photos on the install of these brackets in Frankensteins build thread if you are interested found here: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...rail-rig-and-bs.159436/page-535#post-10417256

Just becareful, that link is a huge build update and tons of hi res photos. The CBI photos are about 3/4 of the way through the post.

Connected up the harness and pulled back the slack into the fender but left the quick release within reach. Then bolted up the fender again.

Cut a slit into the stock grommet on the driver side and pushed the molex end of the switch harness through. Pulled it all the way through till the three other wires came through.

BussmanDitchlights-31.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Then its time to remove the dash a bit.

This is a good video to show how to do a 01-04 center section.

https://youtu.be/9pAGomsyUHA?t=3m30s

Its the same as my 1996 except for this lil bastard behind the ashtray.

BussmanDitchlights-34.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Then it just pops off.

BussmanDitchlights-35.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Also helps to remove the cover under the steering wheel. Just 4 10mm bolts and one screw. then you can pop the clock out too.

Then its time to hook up wires. I started with the single wire coming out of the harness. This is the power wire for light that turns on when you flip the switch on and provides the power for the coil side of the relays. I used a simple fuse tap for this.

BussmanDitchlights-45.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

I tapped into ECU-B fuse because it has constant power. That way I can turn the lights on without have the ignition on.

BussmanDitchlights-46.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

I can the main switch harness and the two pair wires up under the steering column with the stock harness.

BussmanDitchlights-37.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
BussmanDitchlights-38.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
BussmanDitchlights-39.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

The two pair wires stop right at the clock, which at first i though was perfect but ended up not being, ill explain that later. I kept running the main switch harness to the center. Its like the little cut was made for it.

BussmanDitchlights-40.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
 

Blackdawg

Dr. Frankenstein
You could say i had some..slack

BussmanDitchlights-41.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Not bad though. Probably could have run it into the headliner if i had an over head switch panel.

Luckily the PO wasn't an ************ and the stereo install was very clean and there wasn't a rats next of wires. Which meant there was plenty of room for the spare wire.

BussmanDitchlights-42.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

I just looped it up and zip tied it up.

BussmanDitchlights-44.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Attached the switchback end of the harness and was done with that.

BussmanDitchlights-43.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Next was wiring up the two pair wire i had left. This is a ground and power wire that is also for the switches. Its for the independent light though that lights up the lettering of the switch. I wanted for it to be dimmable with the stock interior lights. I thought the clock would be perfect but thats where i ****ed up. But im going to show this anyways as its when i took photos of splicing the wires.

But DON'T DO THIS. I'll show you the right place to splice in a bit.

I thought this would work because of the back of the clock

BussmanDitchlights.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

I saw ILL which means Illumination and figured that had to be there....shoulda tested with a volt meter first.

Anyways i was too stoked on how the wires where the perfect length and went for it.

BussmanDitchlights-36.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Stripped the end of the wire and also a section out of the stock wire.

BussmanDitchlights-47.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Used a small screwdriver to split the stock wire to make an eyelet.

BussmanDitchlights-48.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Then put the other wire end into the eyelet and twist it to wrap around.

BussmanDitchlights-49.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
BussmanDitchlights-50.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Do to the other wire

BussmanDitchlights-51.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

i added a bit of solder

BussmanDitchlights-52.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Used some electrical tape

BussmanDitchlights-53.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Then realized i ****ed up.

The clock doesn't dim :frusty:

But the emergency flasher button does. And is right above. But the wires are still too short. So i had to extend them just a bit.

Tested with a volt meter this time

BussmanDitchlights-54.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Did the same thing just with spare wire.

BussmanDitchlights-55.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Then buttoned it up for a super clean look.

BussmanDitchlights-59.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

The just had to connect all the quick plugs and the 4ga wire and install the bussman.

BussmanDitchlights-4.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Cleanest install ive ever done for lights and wiring.


But who cares. Output shots!


So this is what i did. I didn't have my tripod with me so they aren't exactly the same. But i basically adjusted my camera settings so that the picture with my low beams on reflected close to what i saw with my eyes. then i just used the same settings for each photo.

I did NOT edit these photos, they are 100% raw and i did not change the camera settings for any of the photos.

Low beams.

BussmanDitchlights-56.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

High Beams

BussmanDitchlights-57.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

High beams and 40w pods.

BussmanDitchlights-58.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Pretty happy with them and even happier with the install.

Hope that was helpful to some.


Next mod, brake system overhaul!
 

Blackdawg

Dr. Frankenstein
Build Update:

Command Center

Okay so in prep for my trip to Utah. I needed to get the cab ready. I added my Ham radio back in and got a real mount for the face plate. Added a tablet for navigation. A mount for a second phone to run APRS off of. And power for the second phone and tablet. Plus a second Ham radio for the APRS, two antennas to the roof and the CB radio antenna out back.

I haven't gotten the CB yet, but its just a Uinden 520xlpro. Goes in the ash tray and is a common mod so not really gonna show how to do that.

The rest of this though, i am. Pretty happy with how the cab works, everything can be seen easily and reached easily. But isn't in the way either.

So lets start, there is a lot to cover.

Lets start with the Ham radio stuff, as most won't really know what this is or much care for it haha

I bought this mount from Panovise

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00020D81Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Its a nice looking mount. Custom bent for our trucks

IgorsCommandCenter-31.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
IgorsCommandCenter-32.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr


installation is pretty straight forward. Need to open up the center section of the dash. Im not going to show how to do that as I did in my last update and that isn't a big job anyways. Just remove the top right screw off the radio mount and slip the bracket on.

IgorsCommandCenter-33.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
IgorsCommandCenter-34.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

The mount comes with another screw to screw into the dash.

IgorsCommandCenter-35.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Replace the dash, which is a tad tricky with the bracket to get the snap clip in by the bracket. Need to do it an odd angle but itll go it.

IgorsCommandCenter-36.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
IgorsCommandCenter-37.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Then i bought this Ram Ball mount: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004O8LF26/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It lines up absolutely perfectly with the Panovise mount. Just needed to go buy some M5 button bolts and nuts to go with it and bolted it on.

IgorsCommandCenter-39.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

This works out great for me as my face plate has a Ram mount already made for it from Frankenstein. This makes swapping my main Ham radio, a Icom 5100, very easy. Hold the face plate well.

IgorsCommandCenter-40.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

It isn't as stable as i would have hoped. I don't think a tablet would work well on here.

Then it was time to mount antennas.

Which means dropping the headline and drilling two 3/4'' holes in the roof....

IgorsCommandCenter-7.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
IgorsCommandCenter-8.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
IgorsCommandCenter-9.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

As you can see, the paint if ****ed on my roof for some reason..

anyways. Ran the cables down and plugged **** in.

This is the bottom of a Nimo Mount. The most common type of antenna mount for ham users.

IgorsCommandCenter-10.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

This is the top.

IgorsCommandCenter-11.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

And the two antennas.

IgorsCommandCenter-12.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

For APRS im using another hacked Motorola GM300 radio with a Mobilinkd TNC interfacing with a DroidX phone running APRSDroid. Since i didn't want to swap two radios over all the time and we had another GM300 i bolted it down behind the rear seats.

IgorsCommandCenter.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Which is a good place to show the phone mount for the DroidX. As i said im running APRSDroid, the OSM build with a fully built off line mount of the USA. No cell service needed which is good because this phone doesn't get cell service anymore.

Now i have the Magnetic Steelie ball mount already but i knew that wouldn't work for this. So I got an idea an ran with it. I decided to use a Ram mount off the A pillar.

So i ordered the following parts:

Ram mount arm: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009SX0J88/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ram mount stud mount Ball: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005J43I56/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

X Brace Ram mount: https://www.amazon.com/Cradle-Holde...rd_wg=K4mLf&psc=1&refRID=RXVE1D5KS6WJC3MNWKBX

The rubber tether for the X Brace: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014GW7KJ6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So my plan was to mount it off the A Pillar using the lower mounting bolt.

IgorsCommandCenter-13.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Just pop off the covers with some sort of blade to access the M6 bolts holding on the Oh **** handle.

IgorsCommandCenter-14.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
IgorsCommandCenter-15.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

I took off the cover to make sure stuff would clear, namely a USB wire for charging.

IgorsCommandCenter-16.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Takes some effort to remove but pops right off.

IgorsCommandCenter-17.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Sadly, the supplied bolts do not work. They are M8s and the toyota bolts are m6. So i made a trip to the hardware store and got a bolt. Plus a few other odds and ends.

The ball isn't tall enough so i needed a spacer to lift it off the truck more. Got a nylon spacer for the bottom of it. Then i got a lock washer and a flat washer plus another spacer to make the bolt stand out to allow a socket to get on it. If you don't get a top spacer then you cant tighten the bolt down enough. Why?

this:

IgorsCommandCenter-18.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

You can see i tried but the steel ring on the inside of the ball stops the 10mm socket just short. So you can't get the bolt tight enough and it will spin.

This was my arrangement and final solution to making this work.

IgorsCommandCenter-24.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

75mm M6 bolt
1/2'' long 1/4'' center nylon spacer
Ram Ball
M6 Lock washer
M6flat washer
3/16''x1/8'' center nylon spacer, i had to drill out the center to 1/4''


Worked great.

Make sure there is a flat washer or the nylon spacer will get chewed up by the lock washer.

IgorsCommandCenter-25.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
 

Blackdawg

Dr. Frankenstein
Rested like this

IgorsCommandCenter-26.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
IgorsCommandCenter-27.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

But i could get the socket on it now! And the bolt sucked down enough it wouldn't intrude on the balls function.

IgorsCommandCenter-28.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
IgorsCommandCenter-29.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Then put the phone mount together.

IgorsCommandCenter-19.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
IgorsCommandCenter-20.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr


Fits great! I do wish the top arm was just a touch longer to push it back further.

IgorsCommandCenter-22.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
IgorsCommandCenter-23.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Now for Navigation.

I bought the Mob Armor X mount Per @SconnieHailer recommendation: http://mobarmor.com/mob-x/

Pretty nice mount

IgorsCommandCenter.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
IgorsCommandCenter-2.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

And Samsung Tab4 off of ebay for cheap. Also Marc recommendation

IgorsCommandCenter-3.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Fit perfectly.

IgorsCommandCenter-4.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Then i bought Backcountry Navigator for the app. Super handy and so far been liking it.

Installing the mount is..well..easy. And filament is perfect i think..

IgorsCommandCenter-5.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
IgorsCommandCenter-6.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Then i didn't want a bunch of damn UBS cables hanging all over the dash having to charge three devices or more. So i bought some 2m UBS cables with 90º mini ends.

IgorsCommandCenter-46.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
IgorsCommandCenter-47.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Ran the first down in between the A pillar and dash. It popped right out down below.

IgorsCommandCenter-48.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Then had to cut a slit in the rubber cover of the Oh **** handle.

IgorsCommandCenter-54.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

make sure to feed the wire through the A pillar cover before putting it through the Oh **** handle.

IgorsCommandCenter-55.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

The cable lays nice in it all though.

IgorsCommandCenter-56.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

And bam! Cable out the A pillar.

IgorsCommandCenter-57.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Bolt the mount back up and check the wiring length to make sure it fits.

IgorsCommandCenter-58.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Love how the 90º fitting looks. Super clean.

IgorsCommandCenter-59.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
IgorsCommandCenter-60.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Once the length was good I ran it along with my switch wiring under the steering column.

IgorsCommandCenter-49.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
 

Blackdawg

Dr. Frankenstein
Pushed it up through the same spot as the switch wiring harness i showed in my Bussman install. And it dropped right out the bottom! Super easy!

IgorsCommandCenter-50.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

The tablet one was a *****. I shoved my hand into the dash and some how was able to get it to squeeze in between the dash and the defroster vent and THEN shove it up through the vent slots. Was a *****..

IgorsCommandCenter-51.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
IgorsCommandCenter-52.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

But was worth it I think. Dropped it back down by the other cable.

IgorsCommandCenter-53.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Since the vent was pinching it so much i set the length and put the lower dash cover back on coiling up the slack and zip tying it up out of the way.

Then let the cable sit out and left enough to plug into this triple USB Charger i got locally.

IgorsCommandCenter-63.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
IgorsCommandCenter-64.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Ignore the gray plug. I forgot to plug the 12v sockets back in haha

The third USB is for the TNC in the back of the truck. Also 90º ends on both sides and 3m long.

And Viola! Command center with navigation and communication!

IgorsCommandCenter-65.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Pretty happy with the setup. Will get to test it myself soon in all it glory.


And finally. the CB. Im using a BAMF rear mount i got from a friend. I modified it though to take a nimo mount.

IgorsCommandCenter-41.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
IgorsCommandCenter-42.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
IgorsCommandCenter-43.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
IgorsCommandCenter-44.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
IgorsCommandCenter-45.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Not sure i love it. Don't know where else to put the CB antenna right now though. The mount isn't my favorite though. Either rubs the tailgate bad or make it hard to close.
 

Blackdawg

Dr. Frankenstein
Build Update: Wheelers Superbumps Front and Rear

In preparation for my trip to Utah, i wanted to spruce the suspension just a bit in hopes i could romp Igor through the smoother stuff. I already had the Kings up front and Foxes in the back with Alcans. So bump stops seems like a good way to go.

I really liked what they did to Frankenstein when i installed them on him(here). So i bought the kit again from Wheelers and i bought their front kit.

The front kit is NOT made for 1st gen Tacomas. Its for 2nd gens. But ive seen a few on here fit them in various ways and had an idea on making them work i wanted to try.

I started with ideas for the front and grabbed my old stock LCA from Frank for some RND.

IgorsBumps-2.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

The stock ones just un screw pretty easily, just need a wrench that fits, found a pipe wrench works great.

IgorsBumps-3.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

The stock bumps are different sizes, the front ones are larger in diameter and a tad taller too.

IgorsBumps-4.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

The Wheelers bumps are massive in comparison. I also have another bump, an ES Foam one i believe that is another popular option for people to swap in. But you have to drill and tap the LCA or the frame due to different threads.

IgorsBumps-5.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
IgorsBumps-6.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
IgorsBumps-7.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

This show cases one of the bigger problems with these up front. They are so tall that at ride height you are in the bumps. Granted they are very soft and don't limit down travel but do change the ride a lot. They also don't hit straight on. The biggest problem with using them as seen here.

IgorsBumps-24.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

This is where i decided to try something different then what most had done. Usually people from what i have read had just cut 3/4-1.24'' off the bumps. Which helps but still doesn't make them hit square.

I found a place to get 1' of UHMW the same diameter(3.25'') as the lower part of the bump on ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/221557297720?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

IgorsBumps-9.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Then I roped my Dad into helping me with is wood shop tools.

I decided to make shims to angle the bumps more into the truck, I started with 1/4'' on one side with a 1/4'' rise. We sketched it out on a square block to set the angle on the band saw for later.

IgorsBumps-10.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
IgorsBumps-11.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Then we had a problem, getting a perfect 180º cut on a round chunk of material is basically impossible. My dad suggested planning it so it had flat edges. We tested the idea on some wood first.

IgorsBumps-12.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
IgorsBumps-13.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

This does a few things. It allows us to use the flats as guides on the band saw and it allowed me to easily find the center for drilling a hole later.

So we did it to the UHMW

IgorsBumps-14.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
IgorsBumps-15.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
IgorsBumps-16.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Then cut the angled shim out and then a second one easily.

IgorsBumps-17.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
IgorsBumps-18.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
IgorsBumps-19.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
IgorsBumps-20.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Looks promising. So I drilled some holes.

IgorsBumps-21.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Again, looks promising.

IgorsBumps-22.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

While i was doing this i cranked up the coilovers a bit too as i knew id need to for the bumps and of course the new tires.

IgorsBumps-23.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
IgorsBumps-26.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

And here it is mounted

IgorsBumps-25.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Was a PITA. The wrench is small and not a lot of room. But i sucked it down as hard as i could, the bolt cut threads into the shim and a bit into the spacer itself. Felt very snug and i didn't want to have them rotate.
 

Blackdawg

Dr. Frankenstein
I could tell that it needed trimmed still though. So i took them off and cut 3/4'' off.

IgorsBumps-27.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Looks better..

IgorsBumps-28.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

I ultimately decided to run with it but cut another set of spacers that was only 1/8'' on the short side and 3/8'' on the tall side. At ride height, im not in the bumps, but close. They still hit at a small angle but i think this is a good mix. If i angle them too much then at full stuff they won't compress right.

This is the front at ride height.

IgorsBumps-34.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

I also got the rear kit and had the 1/4'' WHeelers spacers left over and decided to put them on. Which i regret and will be removing them when i redo the leaf packs.

IgorsBumps-8.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Also added some Allpro Axle relocation plates. I could tell id have too with the small tires to fit the new 255s on.

IgorsBumps-29.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Install is pretty straight forward, the Frankenstein link shows some more details, but this install did have some tricks.

The plates just go on the bottom of the axle, i used the 3/4'' hole.

IgorsBumps-30.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Using this though, creates and issue with the rear bumps. They use the stock U bolts to hold them down. But since im moving the axle i need to move the bumps.

Nothing a die grinder can't fix.

IgorsBumps-32.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
IgorsBumps-33.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr


Since ive come back from my trip before i wrote this i can say they are nice! My rear just needs major help all around and the bumps couldn't fix the problems single handedly. The front though felt great most the time. Was great on high speed and in the rocks. But i can't give a great review on them as i haven't offroaded without them. Thinking of taking them off to see what its like.

I also left the rear front bump on as the super bumps are so soft it'll go too low. Granted my shim may be enough but i just left it after reading the super bumps would compress too much.

On to the next mod!
 

Blackdawg

Dr. Frankenstein
Build Update: Sliders

Since some of the trails we were planning on running had some big ledges and rocks on them. I new id need sliders.

I for some reason didn't want weld on sliders to Igor at first. But after shopping around. It wasn't going to happen. Everyone wanted 6-700 bucks for them :eek: So screw that ****. Then the affordable weld on ones i didn't like and lead times for others was too long and wasn't want i wanted.

I really liked how my Dads sliders looked. Very clean and tight to the body. Barely tell they are there. They are made by Demello and bolt on, but they wanted $600 bucks plus shipping and 8 week lead time. Wasn't gonna happen.

So said **** it, I'll build some.

Bought 16' of round 1.75'' DOM tubing, 16' of 2x2 tubing and some scrap pieces. All .125'' wall

Cut the main tubes to 70''

IgorsSliders.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

I cut the frame legs too and went for 40º for starters. They are 7.75'' long.

IgorsSliders-2.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
IgorsSliders-3.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Id hoped to use the tubing bender Jon gave me a while ago. But the die was a 1.65'' one and i had forgotten that. So couldn't do it myself. But i figured out how to mark where i wanted it bent and went to a local exhaust shop in town. I know the owner fairly well haven't gone to school with his youngest son most my life. I asked if he could do it and he said to come by the late afternoon. I came and he used his nice hydraulic bender and we had them bent in 10 mins. Settled at 40º and best of all he didn't charge me!

IgorsSliders-4.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
IgorsSliders-5.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Used a 6'' cut offwheel and cut the tubes. Also almost cut my leg off.

IgorsSliders-6.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Then used this POS tube notcher to cut my mini legs. PITA. this thing was damn near worthless.

IgorsSliders-7.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

But it worked. I got the mini legs or whatever cut, 2'' long and started welding everything together.

IgorsSliders-8.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
IgorsSliders-9.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

For frame plates, i just ordered the TG ones. for 30 bucks, hard to beat and was fast to get them and better then what i could make most likely in my time frame.

Got them mounted and clamped up.

IgorsSliders-10.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Then the absolutely painful process of getting everything lined up and taced together...by myself. Was a PITA.

IgorsSliders-11.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Took a few trys to get them how i wanted. but did and then and to finish welding.

IgorsSliders-12.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
IgorsSliders-13.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
IgorsSliders-14.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
IgorsSliders-15.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
IgorsSliders-16.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
IgorsSliders-17.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Little bit of paint.

IgorsSliders-18.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Burned them on the truck!

IgorsSliders-19.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
IgorsSliders-20.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Very tight..

IgorsSliders-21.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
IgorsSliders-22.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Welding upside down suuuuuccckkks

IgorsSliders-23.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
 

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