Ideas for slide-out kitchen light using aluminum channel

[SBSYNCRO]

Posting here because I have almost zero experience with using aluminum channel for projects, and I'm hoping someone with more experience will know the most efficient way to do this.. On the back of my Turtleback trailer, the aluminum rails that the RTT mounts to end just flush with the tailgate. In order to provide some better overhead lighting for the galley, I'm thinking of some sort of "light bar" that would slide out and lock with a couple of plunger type pins (like on RTT ladders).

Here are the dimensions of the aluminum extrusions (forgive the mix-up between metric and standard - I happened to have a carpenter's tape measure handy and was too lazy to go get my metric one). I'm thinking some 1/8" x 1" aluminum bar stock that would slide inside the 29mm slot and then maybe secure with a thumb screw secured to a T-nut inside the 10mm slot. (But because of road vibration, I'd prefer some sort of plunger/pin arrangement). I'd want it to slide out about 10" and there would be a horizontal aluminum bracket that spans the 31" distance between the two (this would become the overhead light mount). The bar stock would be about 14" long, bent to a 90º at the 12" mark, leaving a 2" long mounting surface, across which I would span another piece of aluminum bar stock or extruded channel like 80/20.

Any other suggestions?

 

[Scoutman]

What are the 2 lights mounted on the rear for then?

 

[SBSYNCRO]

What are the 2 lights mounted on the rear for then?

They are too low to illuminate the galley (they shine behind the stove and sink when everything is opened up). I'm trying to create some overhead "task lighting" that will be immediately above the work area so that I don' have to rely on a headlamp while cooking (which I always seem to be doing in the dark) .

 

[mattpayne11]

I could be wrong but are those not M8 channels there that you could push some bolts into and then attach a light or two to those bolts? I have a lot of ideas on how you could do that actually. What is your power source?

 

[SBSYNCRO]

I could be wrong but are those not M8 channels there that you could push some bolts into and then attach a light or two to those bolts? I have a lot of ideas on how you could do that actually. What is your power source?

I haven't measured to verify, but I'm assuming the same thing about being able to use an M8 T-slot nut and machine screw. Power source is the existing lighting - my plan is to tap into the exterior lights that are switched (in fact I tracked down the manufacturer of the lights for Turtleback trailers and bought two more with 90º housings (240 lumen LEDs that will face downward when attached to a vertical surface.

 

[SBSYNCRO]

So for anyone following this, I'm working up a proof of concept with some scrap I have laying around from previous projects. The sliders will be 30mm aluminum bar stock, about 25 cm long (though my diagram is marked 29mm, that slot is actually more like 30.6mm in width). They will be fastened in place with a pair of M6 x 20mm thumb screws (I found that M6 T-nuts from 80/20 fit perfectly in the upper 10mm slot). Then spanning the two sliders will be a section of 25-series 80/20. This will give me a lot of mounting flexibility for anything that will take an M6 screw.

Which leads me to my dilemma....

The lights I plan to use are these: http://tecniqinc.com/documents/sales-sheets/D03-D07_sales-sheet.pdf

They are fastened by #6 screws, and thus are sized for a ~3.5mm screw diameter. The smallest T-nut I can find is M4, which is 3.8mm, so an M4 screw won't fit through the light...

Any ideas on how to attach #6 screws to 80/20 without simply just drilling into the 80/20?

WRT wiring, I'm going to put a three-way switch in line with these (if I can find a weatherproof one that I like) that will allow me to switch from existing lights only, kitchen light only, or both. I haven't decided if that is just overkill (is an extra ~1.8 watt draw really going to make a difference...?)

 

[NatersXJ6]

Can you just drill a bigger hole through the light following the existing screw hole? 4 or 6... should be easy.

and no, 1.8 watts won’t matter, but having less light is often nice / considerate, especially if others are nearby.