Ice, Ice, Baby or An OEV Summit On The Road to Fort Smith

Trail Talk

Well-known member
When we acquired our OEV Summit from Lite Industries in the fall of 2020, our expectations were for a true four season unit with the chops to travel the Canadian North during our deep, dark winters.

Previous travels to the Arctic Ocean in summer impressed upon us the need for a robust, reliable and readily serviced platform so the choice of a domestic truck with suitable GVWR was a no-brainer.

The marriage of OEV’s premier Summit composite cabin with an F350 4x4 cab chassis seemed to answer our needs. Nevertheless, we took a year and a half to get familiar with the rig over several adventures during all seasons. This shake-down time was most worthwhile as we sorted a few glitches, but finally we were confident enough to tackle THE trip; the winter road to Fort Smith, Northwest Territories.

Winter roads in northern Canada have always fascinated us. As life-long residents of the city dubbed “Canada’s Gateway To The North”, we were taught in school about the fur trade and the use of rivers as highways through the barren landscape. For a couple of months each winter, when the ice was sufficiently thick on the rivers, dog-sleds would venture along their frozen surface. Nothing much has changed today for many remote settlements except canoes and dog-teams have been replaced by motorboats and snowmobiles.

Along a few select routes, crews and equipment prepare ice highways over the swamps, muskeg, creeks and rivers by pumping water on the frozen surface until a suitable thickness is achieved. These are stitched together by stretches of land wherever possible. During a brief and variable period each winter, entire communities are re-supplied for the coming year via the winter roads, at a fraction of the cost of air transport.

To prepare ourselves, we reviewed the highway department’s winter road safety tips; “Prepare for the worst, experience the best. Avoid traveling in winter storms as storms mean poor driving conditions and visibility. Conditions can change quickly. Make sure you are ready for whatever comes your way. Any delay or breakdown can quickly become life-threatening.”

Thus filled with confidence, we departed our home base one morning at the tail-end of February knowing that last season’s winter road was closed mid-March. Preparations were scant; a couple of jerry cans were filled with reassurance gas and an interior cargo net was installed in the rear seating area of our super cab, where some heavy gear was being carried. I packed snow chains but was relying on studded winter tires to deal with most situations.

The roadway gradually turned from dry pavement to fresh, wet, snow as we motored north towards our first stop of Fort McMurray, the hub of Alberta’s oil production. The lone highway accessing Fort Mac from the south is notorious for traffic fatalities as rig workers race up and down its 435 kilometres; impatient not to waste a single minute of their downtime. Death is forever, I’m thinking as another pickup flies by in the snow and ice-covered left lane…

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To confess, this was our first trip to Fort McMurray and I was pleasantly impressed by the scenic Athabasca river valley bisecting the town. The cross-country ski facilities, some 30 km of groomed, wooded trails, invited us to take a day off and enjoy. An enormous vintage dredge at the Oil Sands Discovery Centre was clearly visible as we entered town but, unfortunately, was closed during the time of our visit.

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Our night at the one RV campground open during winter was, as expected, empty of other tourists; occupied instead by units in storage and a handful of worker’s trailers, skirted and plumbed, for those few who chose not reside at the huge work camps outside of town. We would have preferred one of the provincial campgrounds but all were closed for the season. Regardless, the commercial RV park offered clean, warm shower and laundry facilities.

The real adventures began with the next leg of our travels, north to Fort Chipewyan. It started as a divided two-lane highway that services the gigantic oil sands extraction fields. After 80 km of sharing space with trucks big and small, the highways ends at a narrow track heading into the bush.

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Fort Chipewyan is 160 km up the winter road and a further 16 km detour to the shores of Lake Athabasca. The community is only accessed by air or boat in summer and ice road in winter. Established as a fur trading post in 1788, it is also the oldest settlement in Alberta and remains the centre of First Nations activities in the region.

As we arrived under cold, bright blue skies we could easily observe the town buildings across the frozen lake and were puzzled by an unmarked branch which offered a more direct route to the settlement. Deciding to take this, I immediately sensed the surface heaving and creaking as we slowly motored along. At the other end a fellow driving a town vehicle congratulated us for braving their unofficial short-cut.

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We took a tour through town while looking for gas and were impressed by the quads and snowmobiles sharing the streets. As I was stopped trying to figure out google directions, an oncoming truck pulled beside and a fellow asks if we needed help. Hearing our objective, he laughed and announced we had already passed the fuel depot. He suggested we reverse up the road; “I got your back”, he yelled and shot ahead to guide us safely into the yard. This was typical of the curiosity and helpfulness we were to consistently receive during our northern journey.

Two bucks a litre! That might explain a little incident at 1:30 am while boon-docking at the airport parking lot. Footsteps crunching in the snow were heard from the back where our jerry cans were securely locked in place. A loud motor peeling out of the parking lot announced their obvious disgust. Nevertheless, a huge shout-out to Ernest from the municipal maintenance department who offered us this otherwise comfortable roost for the night. As comfortable as you can be, that is, at -36°C (-32°F).

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The cold weather front also meant clear skies and firm ice, so a mixed blessing. The next segment, once we regained the main winter road, took us to Fort Smith, NWT, via Wood Buffalo National Park. Although we could maintain 50 kph on the land portions before Fort Chip (speeds are restricted to 15 kph on water crossings), this bumpy, twisting section was best negotiated at 30 kph, often less. I was curious how we would handle oncoming vehicles on the narrow, tree-lined section but the only people we encountered were ice-fishing on the river.

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Trail Talk

Well-known member
Ice, Ice, Baby Part II

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Our last water crossing was over the Peace, from Moose Island into Wood Buffalo, where the road improved significantly. It wasn’t until we approached the main highway outside Fort Smith that we saw other traffic.

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Our itinerary had us participating in the annual Thebacha ski race, or loppet, on the weekend. The attraction was its historic 30 km route along the Slave river portage trail from Fort Fitzgerald, used by fur traders to bypass a series of unnavigable rapids. Without RV facilities in town, we booked a hotel room for a couple of nights.
 

Trail Talk

Well-known member
Ice, Ice, Baby Part III

Having a day to kill, we returned to Wood Buffalo National Park with our snowshoes and completed a short hike to the same red chairs overlooking the Salt Plains we visited a couple of summers ago. There was a good depth of fresh snow but we fortunately had the tracks of another snowshoer to ease our efforts. We weren’t the only ones to take advantage; the tracks of a lone wolf, paws as big as my outstretched hand, deftly followed the snowshoe imprints until it decided to head off in another direction. Bison tracks also criss-crossed the land but the great beasts were nowhere to be seen.

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Upon returning to the hotel in the afternoon, while gathering up our gear in the parking lot, the manager Dana came running out and urgently told us to get inside. Apparently someone had been shot, a gunman was on the loose, and the town was under a “shelter in place” order from the RCMP. With permission, we gathered up some food and other supplies. Once in the lobby, Dana wrapped a chain around the doors and threw us the keys to the kitchen to use as we needed. Through our window we watched the steady arrival of reinforcements from surrounding communities and received news the loppet had been cancelled.

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Next morning we learned the suspect, although known, had not been apprehended and was still considered “armed and dangerous”, but the lockdown was lifted. I couldn’t imagine the gunman would care for cross-country skiing so we headed out to the beautifully groomed trails. It was eerie, though, being the only ones out there…

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The whole town remained tense and on alert. Updates were given hourly on Facebook by the town administration. When they announced the grocery store would open briefly, we went for supplies, but otherwise stayed put. We also decided to head back south on the winter road the following day, appreciative that the weather had warmed considerably.

Retracing our path, we stopped before the permanent road ended at the border of Wood Buffalo to empty our spare 40 litres into the truck. This, I calculated, would allow us to skip Fort Chip on the way to Fort Mac. There was a sweet boon-docking spot we spied previously that was calling. So I was more than disappointed to find the padlocks for our jerry cans had frozen solid, the cores filled with ice. A few swear words and the application of flame eventually melted them sufficiently to open. On the Moose Island section we met another traveller heading north, all the way to Norman Wells, and shared gossip about the situation in Fort Smith.

The boon-docking spot was as nice as we hoped and the next morning, our final day on the winter road, dawned promisingly; windy and overcast but warm. With cellular service from Fort Chip, we learned the 17-year old suspect had been apprehended hiding in a residence, and that he hadn’t shot anyone. Equally as tragic, a homeowner had confronted the suspect during a garage theft and subsequently suffered a fatal heart attack after returning to his home. The offender had, just prior, stolen a Forestry truck with a firearm inside, hence the “armed and dangerous” warning.

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As we drove away, light snow began falling and the winds increased. Within half an hour we had a genuine blizzard! Facing white-out conditions, we felt it unwise to just pull over, as a wheel put wrong would make the situation even worse. Further, the road could drift entirely over, trapping us until the plows ventured out. Slowly, as visibility permitted, we crawled forward. At one point my navigator resorted to walking in front to guide us down the road (didn’t see that in the job description, honey?). Hour by hour the storm continued, although I felt it lessen gradually as we headed south. We were occasionally reassured by traffic in the other direction; I mean, if they can… Only once did I spot headlights gaining in my rearview mirror. I pulled over at a suitable spot and was quite surprised to have a loaded semi blast by.

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We finally reached the permanent road, exhausted and relieved. Another night at the RV park in Fort Mac allowed the storm to catch up and we learned the highway south had been closed for several hours overnight. Conditions had improved sufficiently by morning to allow travel but we passed many vehicles in the ditch, on their side or roof, wrapped in police tape. Still, with nauseating regularity, someone would speed past the line of more cautious traffic in the right lane. Was it faith or just a lack of imagination that allowed them to plunge into that swirling maelstrom of snow without seeing the way ahead?

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Despite how this story reads, we both consider it was a great trip. Challenging, even exciting at times, drove new roads, skied new trails and met more wonderful northern people. Couldn’t ask for more.

In fact, BLITZEN will be aiming for Inuvik in a couple of months on a round-about route which includes the ferry from Port Hardy to Prince Rupert.
 
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Trail Talk

Well-known member
Great report you guys! Too bad about the Loppet, I was looking forward to hearing all about it.

We were tempted to ski the route solo but, when we arrived at Fort Fitz, there was nowhere to park our rig without blocking the road (buses had been planned for the loppet). Without signs of other people, it all appeared a bit spooky so we returned to the Ft. Smith Ski Club and explored closer to town. A new date of April 2 for a shortened event was just announced and by then the winter road will likely be out of service.

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start at Fort Fitzgerald.
 
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billiebob

Well-known member
Despite how this story reads, we both consider it was a great trip. Challenging, even exciting at times, drove new roads, skied new trails and met more wonderful northern people. Couldn’t ask for more.
On the mark, the North is best when you experience the weather. After 10 years in Yellowknife I look forward to a winter trip north.
Who'd thought 2 bucks a litre might be a deal today.... we are $1.99.9 in Nakusp.
 
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Trail Talk

Well-known member
Probably should also comment on our equipment during this trip. Gorilla tape proved most helpful, covering a gap between the fender flare and body caused by a small dent while backing out of our parking stall (oops) at the very start. Believe it or not, this was a bit of a blessing. Knowing how fussy I can be, my dearest navigator asked if we should quit and go home (I don't blame her not wanting to travel with a miserable sod). Instead I just let go; first scratch done, now relax. The tape came out again when a split developed in a pair of snow boots, something to do with the temperature I think.

We added a winter front to the truck for this trip. Usually not recommended for gas engines, it proved useful driving in -30's and when parked overnight to assist the hydronics with warming the engine in the morning. I suspected the dash gauge would be unreliable, we confirmed engine operating temperatures and other parameters with an OBDLink MX+ dongle.

Also new was an interior cargo restraint net, made by a Calgary company Quarantine. Thankfully it wasn't tested, but worth the reassurance considering we carried tools, tire chains, and other heavy objects in the back seat area. One noticeable effect of moving some weight forward was a smoother ride with less of the porpoising effect. Still looking forward to the custom Radflo shocks in spring.

The ram mount for our navigation screen was offset more towards the passenger, but eventually the iPad just ended up in her lap most of the time.

We rented a satellite phone but it stayed in the case; I always carry an EPIRB for WSHTF scenarios (never used).

The Summit cabin was as stalwart as the truck. The gas-fired Webasto pumped out sufficient heat when off-grid, the engine kept the cabin warm while on the move via the hydronics, and the electric heater was used when shore power was available. Only once, not this trip, did we use both Webasto and electric heater at once, when it was too effing cold! Overnight condensation simply cannot be avoided, ice forming on the Bomar roof hatch, so a period each morning was devoted to wiping things down. Frost also developed in the compartment under the dinette seat so we were careful what was stored on the bottom.

Alas, the hydronics system still leaks coolant, as it has since delivered. I can visually trace the source running from a conduit under the cabin into the exterior compartment where the valves and overflow tank are located. After many service calls to OEV it is admittedly less than we previously experienced, at any rate the puddle left on the ground is smaller, but I fear the cabin would need to be lifted to get at the problem.
 
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