I decided to build my own Pop Top camper
- Thread starter 97heavyweight
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97heavyweight
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One of the issues I stumbled upon was that my canvas is not tight enough to hold the roof up on the same vertical plane front to rear as the walls. I did come up with a solution that I will attach pictures later (I forgot to take them). I attached eyebolts in each corner then ran high strength tent guy lines with adjusters to create an X pattern on each side of the camper. The roof barely moves when up now which is great. I will eventually go with some tubular nylon bolted to the frame. At least until I get new canvas made for it.
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97heavyweight
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97heavyweight
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As some people have speculated and I secretly thought. Not having a drip edge has bit me in the ass. Driving home on the interstate through non-stop rain caused the rear seam to soak through and subsequently leak into the camper. For now i am going to put tape over the seams if I know it is going to rain.
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97heavyweight
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I am going to be redoing the canvas and all the subsequent trim at some point in the next year. I have learned how to make drip edge (in theory) so I will make a drip edge and install it then. The base molding didn't have enough give to let me shut the roof. Hindsight being what it is I could've just cut the corners and been alright.
97heavyweight
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Yes the seal is closed cell, but I think I just saturated the canvas beyond it's waterproofing abilities and it seeped in.
It could've also seeped in along the exposed thread on the rear. My thread for the velcro went a little low. I will have to treat it like the rest of the threads.
97heavyweight
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Thanks. The flat roof hasn't leaked, but it does pool up so i've been using the orange RV leveler pads to park the front tires on. It's been working, but is somewhat inconvenient. Luckily I don't daily the truck anymore. I might in the future rebuild the roof and try and make it not flat.
97heavyweight
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Started on my batteries for the camper. It's not pretty, but it will work until I start the interior build out and make the permanent box and setup. I'm running two Group 31 yellow top optimas (which I got for free) everything else i've had kicking around my shop for years. I'm running a 500amp isolator (not sure why I bought a 500amp, but it'll work for now). The wiring is 2awg from engine bay to bed and will have an 80amp fuse. The ground is straight to the frame. All other wire is 4awg because it was also free. I just need a couple lugs and it'll be ready. I intend to run a fuse panel and get my fans powered for the summer. My interior build out has been delayed until at least this fall. But i'll be damned if i'm going to sweat in my sleep.
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97heavyweight
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Installed one of the two roof fans. I am super stoked on these fans. This one fan alone moves some air. No more warm nights for me! Super easy install as well. When I built the roof frame I added in framing for the fan so all I had to do to open the roof up was use the ol' router. I also glued it in instead of using the screws. I used Sikaflex 221. It feels pretty solid. I will probably use some screws to attach it to the frame on the sides. It also lets in a surprising amount of light which I am a fan of.
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97heavyweight
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Yes that is the existing drain hole that I drilled out to about 1". I will be putting a boot on it soon. I'm a huge fan of adhesives as well.
97heavyweight
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I got my other fan installed and it is just in time with record heat wave up here in Washington. I am excited to find a river and use these awesome fans this weekend, but first I need to sort the wiring. I ditched the wooden box for something more permanent. Another sweet gift from work. I believe the places i have them mounted will be there permanent homes and the eventual bench will cover them up, but we shall see. Next step is mounting the battery fuses, isolator and fuse panel.
