I am convinced that those who use tire tubes, just enjoy getting flats and fixing them...

MTVR

Well-known member
I hate flats, so I only run tubeless.

I haven't run tubes in any of my bicycle tires for the last 10 years, and haven't had a single flat.

In the beginning, I ran "ghetto" tubeless using non-tubeless tires and rims, but I almost always use tubeless tires and rims now.

My most recent bicycle, a Kona Unit rigid steel single-speed 29er, came with tubeless rims already taped, tubeless tires, and tubeless valve stems in a little baggie. All I had to do, was pull out the heavy stock tubes, install the valves, and give it a quick splash of Stan's. The tires seated with a hand pump. My bike is now lighter, faster, rides smoother, has better traction, and is virtually flat-proof.

 

chasespeed

Explorer
While I dont "travel" on my bikes, I do agree with you. Both of mine are tubeless(29er and 27.5+).
I do carry a tube... because carrying a bike back sucks.

Sent from my SM-T827V using Tapatalk
 

Howard70

Adventurer
Hello Chasespeed:

I’m with you and MTVR - happy with tubeless/sealant combination. A question - you mention carrying a tube as a backup - has using a tube worked? I ask because after a couple of weeks of goat heads and other thorns in my tubless tires (all sealed up fine), the inside of those tires is as prickly as a porcupine’s back. It seems like a tube placed in one of those tires would quickly have a dozen holes and leak like crazy? Any direct experience?

Thanks,
Howard
 

MTVR

Well-known member
I agree with Howard- I see no point in carrying a tube.

But like I said, I haven't had a single flat in 10 years, since switching to tubeless...
 

CampStewart

Observer
OP you are 100 percent correct. Those of us who have been using tubes for decades with sealant in them and not experiencing flats spend much of our time just dreaming and hoping that our proven system fails and we get repeated flats leaving us stranded miles from help. You are a mind reader.
 

DaveInDenver

Middle Income Semi-Redneck
I run tubeless but still carry a tube and have had to use it a handful fo times, flats (sealant dries out quickly here), torn sidewall, dented rim. No two riders' outfits must be the same because the conditions and uses aren't the same.
 

MTVR

Well-known member
OP you are 100 percent correct. Those of us who have been using tubes for decades with sealant in them and not experiencing flats spend much of our time just dreaming and hoping that our proven system fails and we get repeated flats leaving us stranded miles from help. You are a mind reader.

Why run tubes AND sealant? Why not just run sealant and skip the additional weight and rolling resistance of the tubes? Not to mention the fact that tubes reduce traction and make the tires ride harsher...
 

MTVR

Well-known member
I run tubeless but still carry a tube and have had to use it a handful fo times, flats (sealant dries out quickly here), torn sidewall, dented rim.

Pull your valve core once every few months, position the stem at 6:00, and check the sealant level with a dipstick. If it's low, add more. Not checking your sealant level once every few months is not a tubeless system failure, that's an owner not doing mainenance failure.

If you tear a tire sidewall out, you're gonna need more than a tube to get you going again. How many tire sidewalls have you torn out? I never have.

And if you prang a rim while recreating some kind of Nitro Circus stunt on your expedition bicycle, keep in mind that the tire was BETWEEN the rim and whatever you hit, so the tire is probably done too, in which case a tube alone isn't going to do anything to get you going again. If you prang a rim to the point that your tubeless system won't seal and you somehow DIDN'T destroy the tire in the process, just pound it flat with a rock and go again. I personally have never pranged a rim that bad, even with custom-built flyweight cross-country race wheels, so I really don't worry about it.

If you're gonna carry a spare anything, just carry a spare tire, folded up in your bike bag.
 

CampStewart

Observer
Why run tubes AND sealant? Why not just run sealant and skip the additional weight and rolling resistance of the tubes? Not to mention the fact that tubes reduce traction and make the tires ride harsher...
Because it works just fine as it it is had has for decades and I don't have to do anything, I get where I am going just fine
 

Airmapper

Inactive Member
I run tubeless and carry one of those tubolito emergency tubes, it's freaking tiny and adds nothing to my bike pack. I also have a tire patch kit, like a miniature version you would use for a truck tire. All of that fits in my palm.

Once I went tubeless I wouldn't have it any other way.

But don't get me started on Presta valves. I've never had trouble with a Schrader valve, the Prestas I have now clog constantly from the tire sealant. I can't get air in, can't get air out. I've had to pull the tire off to clean the inside repeatedly. I don't run enough sealant to cover them, if anything I run less than the recommended amount of sealant.
 

DaveInDenver

Middle Income Semi-Redneck
Pull your valve core once every few months, position the stem at 6:00, and check the sealant level with a dipstick. If it's low, add more. Not checking your sealant level once every few months is not a tubeless system failure, that's an owner not doing mainenance failure.

If you tear a tire sidewall out, you're gonna need more than a tube to get you going again. How many tire sidewalls have you torn out? I never have.

And if you prang a rim while recreating some kind of Nitro Circus stunt on your expedition bicycle, keep in mind that the tire was BETWEEN the rim and whatever you hit, so the tire is probably done too, in which case a tube alone isn't going to do anything to get you going again. If you prang a rim to the point that your tubeless system won't seal and you somehow DIDN'T destroy the tire in the process, just pound it flat with a rock and go again. I personally have never pranged a rim that bad, even with custom-built flyweight cross-country race wheels, so I really don't worry about it.

If you're gonna carry a spare anything, just carry a spare tire, folded up in your bike bag.
You're right, one solution surely must fit all. Riding daily in Portland, OR, must be exactly like riding daily in the desert of western Colorado, eastern Utah, what with single digit humidity and triple digit summer and subzero winters. It's 10% relative humidity here at our house right now.

IMG_1259_mid.jpg

Both Stan's and Orange stop being fluid in a couple of months for me. I remove the tire and peel off sheets of dried sealant from inside the tire carcass a couple of times a year. Sometimes I'm not perfect and let them go longer than I should and inevitably they pick up a cactus needle (you have those in Portland, right?) or goat head and the sealant doesn't flow anymore.

Torn sidewalls? I dunno, a few maybe. Tires are too expensive to replace more than a couple of times a year. This tire is about a 6 month old Maxxis Ardent that split a couple of weeks ago enough to no longer be air tight despite being plenty of tread left. The rubber dries out and the threads start to expose. Stan's makes this worse so I usually use Orange Seal, which seems to be less harsh on tires. Got a new tire ready to go, just waiting on sealant to arrive so it's been running a tube for a couple of weeks.

IMG_1258_mid.jpg

It's just the nature of the beast.

Another, this on a set of wheels that have been just sitting in the garage for a year or so. The rubber on these is all brittle and cracking, they aren't useful anymore.

IMG_1260_mid.jpg


This is my super light Gunnar, the sidewall wax has already dried and threads starting to expose on a tire I put on this spring. It's even still got the new tire vent spews hairs on it.

IMG_1261_mid.jpg

Conti's are some of the worst about doing this but they all dry out fast and the sealant weeps through the threads and seals for a while until they leak air. I carry a tube in case they start leaking on the trail. The tire casing eventually splits and I can use a piece of duct tape then. I get an extra couple of months using tubes at the end of their useful life. It's rarely that the treads are worn, the carcass just wears out fast here.

IMG_0861_mid.jpg
 
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MTVR

Well-known member
Yeah, you're right-I can't help you with that freezing thing.

Me personally, I don't normally ride on ice, and snow doesn't normally puncture my tires...
 

Howard70

Adventurer
Some thoughts:

1. If what you’re doing works for you keep at it!

2. Presta valves. Agree they can be finicky. I try to use versions that have removable cores - one of my favorites is produced by Cafelatex. They also come with a bright red metal valve cap which I find easy to locate when I drop it in the dirt.... When adding sealant, I remove the presta core and that seems to help allow the sealant into the tire.

3. Solidifying sealant. Agree this is a pain. I try to ride each bike that has sealant in its tires or tubes in sequence. It seems to me that sealant remains fluid and effective longer if it doesn’t sit in the tire or tube for days without spinning. Right now I’m running two bikes tubeless with sealant and I alternate between them on rides. Because I’m riding every other day that means each bike gets a ride every 5 days. If I was riding three bikes I’d probably give the tires a spin every couple of days as sitting 7 days is a bit long when the sealant gets older. I’m sure the solidifying sealant problem varies across brands, temperatures and humidities so experimenting may be what it takes to find something that works for you.

4. Weeping tires. Aside from experimenting with brands of tires and sealants until you end up happy, I’m not sure what helps! I run the snakeskin tubeless ready versions of three Schwalbe tires (Rocket Rons, Jumbo Jims, and Thunder Burts) without any side wall weeping (Caffelatex sealant). As sealant gets older, I’ll sometimes get some wet spots around old previously sealed thorns. Those spots usually hold air OK and I use the spots of indicators that I’ll need to add sealant soon.

5. Patching sealed tubeless tires. Probably due to the sealant I use, I find that about 3% of sealed punctures later gives way and so I patch them. I like the DynaPlug products for patching tubeless bike tires - easy application and effective patches. While more expensive than some alternatives, the machined components, fine finishes and great feel are the best I’ve found. The last tire I quantified had been rided about 3,000 miles of New Mexico dirt over about 6 months. It had 350 sealed thorns (vast majority goat heads) and 9 DynaPlugs!

Good Luck!

Howard
 
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Regcabguy

Oil eater.
I hate flats, so I only run tubeless.

I haven't run tubes in any of my bicycle tires for the last 10 years, and haven't had a single flat.

In the beginning, I ran "ghetto" tubeless using non-tubeless tires and rims, but I almost always use tubeless tires and rims now.

My most recent bicycle, a Kona Unit rigid steel single-speed 29er, came with tubeless rims already taped, tubeless tires, and tubeless valve stems in a little baggie. All I had to do, was pull out the heavy stock tubes, install the valves, and give it a quick splash of Stan's. The tires seated with a hand pump. My bike is now lighter, faster, rides smoother, has better traction, and is virtually flat-proof.

Vehicle tires are tubeless and get flats all the time. I see bicyclists swapping out tires everywhere. Maybe you're Irish enjoying their good luck.
 

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