How to make a cheap isolated dual-battery setup for $50

wrcsixeight

Adventurer
Quick question - and maybe I missed it somewhere along the line, but let's say I am running an AGM (Die Hard Platinum) as my starting battery, but I want to run 2 - 6v golf cart batteries as my house batteries due to price and capacity being a better fit for my needs. Is this a bad idea?

I am running both a Northstar AGM battery, and a Flooded group 31 USbattery. The Northstar is pretty similar to DHP/ Odyssey batteries in construction materials and charging requirements

I have many methods to see how much current either my solar or alternator or other charging sources are making, what states of charge generally either battery is in, and how much current is flowing to either battery.

Some UNexpected readings have occurred.
Like when my flooded battery is depleted and the AGM is full.
One might think the lower resistance AGM battery will suck up a majority of the current even though it is full and overcharge and fail.

My clamp on Ammeter showed that when the batteries were paralleled and the AGM was fully charged and allowed to feed on alternator current, the AGM battery was only requiring 0.2 amps to hold 14.7 while the depleted flooded battery was requiring 45 amps to be held at 14.7v. This to me disproves the AGM getting overcharged. 0.2 amps at 14.7v is not going to open the AGM's vents. When plugged in and charging for longer, this 0.2 amps will eventually drop down to current so low my meters will not read it, but the flooded battery will always take some current no matter how long it has been charging.

I do suspect that if both batteries were discharged the AGM battery would steal a majority of charging current if the batteries are in parallel while charging, but have not done an experiment to verify this theory. I am no longer of the opinion that one cannot safely charge an AGM and a flooded battery in parallel safely, as long as the voltage does not exceed either batteries maximum allotted voltage.

What I do not want to do is leave the batteries in parallel with no charging current available. My Northstar AGM has a fully charged resting voltage of nearly 13.1v, my Flooded USbattery's fully charged resting voltage is 12.8v and would always feed from the 13.1v Northstar until both batteries were at equal voltage.


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Copper clad aluminum wire needs to be thicker for the same voltage drop at the same amperage as pure copper. It is lighter and less expensive and fine, as long as it is thicker to compensate for its higher resistance. I don;t know how much better CCA would be compared to pure aluminum. Do be suspicious of any seller who is selling thick cabling for significantly less money. My friend just returned many feet of 0/1 gauge aluminum wire, even after contacting the seller and confirming it indeed was pure copper. Some are also selling Aluminum wire as tinned copper wire, as the appearance, not weight, are similar. Tinned copper wire is popular in the marine world.
 
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sfsmedic

Adventurer
Alright how does one know what size fuse to run between batteries and whatever device they have chosen to run in place of the solenoid. For instance a ctek D250S.


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Herbie

Rendezvous Conspirator
Alright how does one know what size fuse to run between batteries and whatever device they have chosen to run in place of the solenoid. For instance a ctek 12 v to 12v charger.

As always, size the fuse to the WIRE. Find the maximum current carrying capacity for the wire you've got installed (or plan to install), and fuse just under that. Anything larger and you're not protecting the wire from over-current. Anything too far under and you're wasting capacity and could have got away with smaller wire.
 

graynomad

Photographer, traveller
size the fuse to the WIRE.
Correct, and the fuse should be placed as close to the source of the current (IE the battery) as possible, not down near the appliance.

Be very sceptical of the wire's current rating if you get that from the label in Radio Shack or somewhere like that, typically those places give a rating that is just below the point the wire melts.

Also a high enough current rating does not necessarily mean the wire is appropriate for your application, you have to consider the voltage drop over the length, but this only matters if battery #2 is not next to #1, say down the back of the vehicle.
 
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sfsmedic

Adventurer
Correct, and the fuse should be placed as close to the source of the current (IE the battery) as possible, not down near the appliance.

Be very sceptical of the wire's current rating if you get that from the label in Radio Shack or somewhere like that, typically those places give a rating that is just below the point the wire melts.

Also a high enough current rating does not necessarily mean the wire is appropriate for your application, you have to consider the voltage drop over the length, but this only matters if battery #2 is not next to #1, say down the back of the vehicle.

I'm going to be putting the battery in the bed I think.


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sfsmedic

Adventurer
Following the lovely diagram on page 1 that means one fuse up at the main battery and another in the back with the aux battery.

Yep. Getting all this down I think. Everything should go very smoothly.
yzyreras.jpg

No issues at all 😳


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sfsmedic

Adventurer
Haha well I followed the guide last summer and my truck hasn't burnt down yet! And I was able to self jump when I left the lights on.

Cool. I'm in gathering of parts mode. I've been out of the country for work since last week so not getting much done on the truck.


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MINO

Adventurer
I had a pricey IBS system ready to go until my storage locker was robbed. Insurance barely covered my loss so I decided to take this route.
My Phoenix Camper was equipped with solar and a dinky 14awg line to the trailer plug. I'm not even sure it should've been included because it did absolutely nothing to recharge the house battery and that's all it is used for (no lights). I would drive from SF to LA and it would still sit around 12.4-12.7 volts.

Couple of notes:
20ft Cable is not enough for a DC Tundra. It barely reached the bed. Bought 6 more feet of 4G cable ($3 a foot!) to reach the house battery.
I need a better Lug crimper, this Harbor Freight one is a pain to use.
I used a bulldog winch quick connector so I can unplug the camper pretty easily. (sadly a $28 part)
Love that clunk when the solenoid is turned on.
Upon start and warm up, the alternator was putting out a nice 14.4-14.8v to both AGM batteries (Diehard P2 & Fullriver dc215)

Thanks to evldave for the entertaining and simple how-to.
I'm very pleased so far.
 

evldave

Expedition Trophy Winner
Be very sceptical of the wire's current rating if you get that from the label in Radio Shack or somewhere like that, typically those places give a rating that is just below the point the wire melts.

This is true for a lot of 'generic' wire sold just about anywhere. One way you can be sure the wire rating is accurate is to look for the UL Mark on the wire. Wire with The Mark has been tested to verify ratings and you can be pretty sure there won't be any issues using it within its ratings.



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unseenone

Explorer
If you really want to do it nicely, I'd suggest Anderson connectors and crimpers. I sprung for the stuff, and I'm quite happy with it. I just I've been happy with the wire I've been getting from PowerWerx and they'll also build custom cables, reasonably priced. I know it's a struggle when you're in the middle of the project to have to order and wait.

Some of the larger stuff takes a different crimper. Be sure to order the correct crimpers.
 

RomeeoJr

New member
sorry in advance if this has already been answered but...

......... What I really want to ask about running factory accessories such as the cig lighters are....are they really being powered through the solenoid while the car is cut off?

Or do you have to do an extra step to cut out the main battery and have it go directly to the aux battery while off?
 

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