38snubby
Active member
Poser.The wheels are Faux bead locks.
Hodakaguy
Hodakaguy's 4x4 Sprinter Build
- Thread starter Hodakaguy
- Start date
PlethoraOfGuns
Adventurer
That new fuel tank is ridiculous! Good luck!
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I don’t know what the laws are in other states, but it’s illegal to run beadlocks on the street in CA.Poser.
charlieaarons
Explorer
Unless DOT approved and stamped (?) The DOT doesn’t show but it’s definitely present. I was checking what the front looks like at 14psi.
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38snubby
Active member
I was only poking in fun, notice the smiley next to my comment. Furthermore, I have been following Hodakaguy's threads for some time now and love his posts and pics.
VanIsle_Greg
I think I need a bigger truck!
I seriously want a set of those on my Ram 1500. Just lifted it and put on a set of 35's... on the factory wheels. Perfect fit, only rubs slightly at full lock on a hard bump. But... those wheels though. Sigh
*Gets out visa card...
*Gets out visa card...
Hodakaguy
Adventurer
Hodakaguy
Adventurer
Oooohhhhh yeah. The UPS man brought me some goodies today!
Vancompass 6.3 kit that I ordered from Cory at Peak10Customs showed up today.......Now it's just a LOT of work and it will be all installed.
All laid out on a table to take inventory and prepare for install.
Rear lift kit (Includes the spring pack on the floor).
Front Shock mounting kit.
Front 2" lift kit and Sumo Springs.
Falcon adjustable stocks.....Oh yeah!
Install pics to come soon!
Hodakaguy
Vancompass 6.3 kit that I ordered from Cory at Peak10Customs showed up today.......Now it's just a LOT of work and it will be all installed.
All laid out on a table to take inventory and prepare for install.
Rear lift kit (Includes the spring pack on the floor).
Front Shock mounting kit.
Front 2" lift kit and Sumo Springs.
Falcon adjustable stocks.....Oh yeah!
Install pics to come soon!
Hodakaguy
VanIsle_Greg
I think I need a bigger truck!
This build is fast becoming has now become my favorite build to follow on ExPo!
Sexy partz.
I just installed all new Bilstein goodies... and feel, underwhelmed with my kit now.
Sexy partz.
I just installed all new Bilstein goodies... and feel, underwhelmed with my kit now.
charlieaarons
Explorer
If you really want to spend some $/€:
full locking TC (unlike stock), 2.85:1 low range, selectable locking F/R diffs (again unlike stock), well engineered suspension lift allowing at least 35s, maybe bigger. The only downside is cost ~$60k for the full monty.
Lower low range isn’t just for “technical rock crawling”, more in order to prevent breakage of everything from driveline/suspension parts to especially interior content of camper.
full locking TC (unlike stock), 2.85:1 low range, selectable locking F/R diffs (again unlike stock), well engineered suspension lift allowing at least 35s, maybe bigger. The only downside is cost ~$60k for the full monty.
Lower low range isn’t just for “technical rock crawling”, more in order to prevent breakage of everything from driveline/suspension parts to especially interior content of camper.
Hodakaguy
Adventurer
Thanks Mate. Nothing wrong with Bilstein'sThis build is fast becominghas now become my favorite build to follow on ExPo!
Sexy partz.
I just installed all new Bilstein goodies... and feel, underwhelmed with my kit now.
Hodakaguy
Hodakaguy
Adventurer
Hodakaguy
Adventurer
Time to get this suspension install going!
First up I jacked up the rear of the van and supported the van with two 5 ton jack stands, since I'm working on gravel (Yeah I know not ideal) I cut a couple pieces of 3/4" ply to support the stands. I put another pair of 5 ton jack stands on the rear of the vehicle under the hitch as a backup, these were just barely touching the hitch and were there for emergency back up.
Rear wheels removed and ready to go.
Stock Suspension.....by by.
Removing the stock sway bar links. The hardware will be re-used when installing the new longer links later.
Temporarily removing the tab holding the E-brake cable. I always place the hardware back in place so it doesn't get lost.
Removing the OEM shocks. Quite the difference compared to the Falcons that are going on.
Lower E-brake cable support tab removed, this tab will be re-located higher later in the install.
Removing the rubber bump stops, a pry bar makes quick work here.
Next up is removing the sway bar. The skid plate makes an awesome jack point.
Removing the brake line support on the spacer block in preparation to removing the block itself.
Removing the U-bolts.
And spacer removed.
Continued Below.....
First up I jacked up the rear of the van and supported the van with two 5 ton jack stands, since I'm working on gravel (Yeah I know not ideal) I cut a couple pieces of 3/4" ply to support the stands. I put another pair of 5 ton jack stands on the rear of the vehicle under the hitch as a backup, these were just barely touching the hitch and were there for emergency back up.
Rear wheels removed and ready to go.
Stock Suspension.....by by.
Removing the stock sway bar links. The hardware will be re-used when installing the new longer links later.
Temporarily removing the tab holding the E-brake cable. I always place the hardware back in place so it doesn't get lost.
Removing the OEM shocks. Quite the difference compared to the Falcons that are going on.
Lower E-brake cable support tab removed, this tab will be re-located higher later in the install.
Removing the rubber bump stops, a pry bar makes quick work here.
Next up is removing the sway bar. The skid plate makes an awesome jack point.
Removing the brake line support on the spacer block in preparation to removing the block itself.
Removing the U-bolts.
And spacer removed.
Continued Below.....
Hodakaguy
Adventurer
Continued from above....
Removing the alignment pin that's holding the two OEM leafs together. Here I'm using some Aero-Kroil to assist in removing the nut, the bottom portion of the pin can spin freely so a pair of vise grips keeps it from spinning while the nut is being removed. Notice the clamp on the two springs that keeps the lower spring from dropping once the pin is removed.
The lower OEM leaf slides onto the Vancompass spring pack then the whole assembly slides up onto the upper OEM spring.
Coating the bolts on the upper spring retainers with Anti-Sieze before assembly, if they every need to be removed down the road this step will pay off.
Using C-clamps to compress the leaf springs then torque the alignment pin. Even a shot of my ugly mug! lol.
Spacer re-installed and new extended U-bolts installed and torqued to spec.
Relocating the E-brake cable tab. Here I'm holding the tab in place and marking the locations where I will drill the hole for the new attach point, the tab will attach to the lower bump stop base.
Holes drilled and painted.
Next up I'm installing the bump stop spacers to drop the OEM bump stop down. You hold the bracket in place and use a pen to mark the hole locations, you then use a center punch and a step drill to make a 1/4" hole in each location. Now you attach the brackets with the provided self tapping bolts.
Continued Below.....
Removing the alignment pin that's holding the two OEM leafs together. Here I'm using some Aero-Kroil to assist in removing the nut, the bottom portion of the pin can spin freely so a pair of vise grips keeps it from spinning while the nut is being removed. Notice the clamp on the two springs that keeps the lower spring from dropping once the pin is removed.
The lower OEM leaf slides onto the Vancompass spring pack then the whole assembly slides up onto the upper OEM spring.
Coating the bolts on the upper spring retainers with Anti-Sieze before assembly, if they every need to be removed down the road this step will pay off.
Using C-clamps to compress the leaf springs then torque the alignment pin. Even a shot of my ugly mug! lol.
Spacer re-installed and new extended U-bolts installed and torqued to spec.
Relocating the E-brake cable tab. Here I'm holding the tab in place and marking the locations where I will drill the hole for the new attach point, the tab will attach to the lower bump stop base.
Holes drilled and painted.
Next up I'm installing the bump stop spacers to drop the OEM bump stop down. You hold the bracket in place and use a pen to mark the hole locations, you then use a center punch and a step drill to make a 1/4" hole in each location. Now you attach the brackets with the provided self tapping bolts.
Continued Below.....
Hodakaguy
Adventurer
Continued from above....
With the bracket bolted in place it's time to re-install the rubber bump stops. These are an extremely tight fit! After coating them with Windex to allow them to slip a bit they are inserted into the brackets. The first one I used a quick clamp and a flat blade screw driver to coax the bump stop into place. On the second bump stop I used a C-clamp and it was much easier!
Installing the spring pack on the drivers side.
Installing the second bump stop....Again a C-clamp worked MUCH better and the stop was installed in no time.
Installing the rear shock re-location brackets. Kiddo was out in the shop for a bit so I put him to work
Re-installing the sway bar.
E-brake cable bracket in it's new home.
Torquing the new Sway bar links in place.
Falcon shocks installed....excited to try these out on the road & trail!
Continued Below.....
With the bracket bolted in place it's time to re-install the rubber bump stops. These are an extremely tight fit! After coating them with Windex to allow them to slip a bit they are inserted into the brackets. The first one I used a quick clamp and a flat blade screw driver to coax the bump stop into place. On the second bump stop I used a C-clamp and it was much easier!
Installing the spring pack on the drivers side.
Installing the second bump stop....Again a C-clamp worked MUCH better and the stop was installed in no time.
Installing the rear shock re-location brackets. Kiddo was out in the shop for a bit so I put him to work
Re-installing the sway bar.
E-brake cable bracket in it's new home.
Torquing the new Sway bar links in place.
Falcon shocks installed....excited to try these out on the road & trail!
Continued Below.....