HillBillyRV Build Thread - 87 Ford E350 Quadravan Pathfinder Conversion

jacobconroy

Hillbilly of Leisure
Jacob ,you may find if you want to follow the contours of the van walls . To use multiple layers of thin board . Were as a inch and a half board R 7.5 it won't bend much ,three half inch are easy to bend . PL 300 glue is made for foam and won't eat it like some glues . Also what I like to do is cut the board a half inch short all the way around ,and then spray foam around it . gives it a perfect seal and locks it in place. The build I am working on right now ,after the board is done I wrap the hole inside with Reflectic and tape all joints .The floors in your van are in great shape given the year of it .

I'm not opposed to layering sheet insulation. Wouldn't it take three times as long and be three times the cost though? 1/2 inch certainly sounds like it will be easier to work with.

If I go with PolyIso or XPS, I had planned to "glue" the outer layer to the metal with "Great Stuff" spray foam. If multiple layers are used (and they probably will need to be due to the curvy body), then PL 300 will be good for the subsequent layers. Any thoughts on if this is a good or bad idea? Also, will it be OK to glue the panels on between 40º - 50ºF? I haven't had much luck Googling info about Great Stuff & application temperature.

Also, am I to understand that XPS is preferable to PolyIso in the cold? In Montana I have no need to insulate specifically for hot weather. There isn't much hot weather here. And if it's nice outside, I won't be in the van. ;)
 

luthj

Engineer In Residence
1-2" foam sheets are somewhat flexible. If you need to bend them, you can use a 1/16" kerf saw to cut 1/2 way through the foam at regular intervals.
 

mobydick 11

Active member
I'm not opposed to layering sheet insulation. Wouldn't it take three times as long and be three times the cost though? 1/2 inch certainly sounds like it will be easier to work with.

If I go with PolyIso or XPS, I had planned to "glue" the outer layer to the metal with "Great Stuff" spray foam. If multiple layers are used (and they probably will need to be due to the curvy body), then PL 300 will be good for the subsequent layers. Any thoughts on if this is a good or bad idea? Also, will it be OK to glue the panels on between 40º - 50ºF? I haven't had much luck Googling info about Great Stuff & application temperature.

Also, am I to understand that XPS is preferable to PolyIso in the cold? In Montana I have no need to insulate specifically for hot weather. There isn't much hot weather here. And if it's nice outside, I won't be in the van. ;)
Well Jacob ,insulation is a funny thing ,if you ask a hundred people you will get a hundred answers . most of them will work . Three layers of half inch will be more expensive ,but not three times as much . and maybe not necessary .Personally I would not use great stuff to glue it on with ,but it does work . If you think about that it is made to expand ,that would push the insulation board away from the wall I would think. PL300 is made specifically for gluing foam board to anything . I would suggest you watch some videos on Kimbo campers ,he has some great ideas about doing things . And has changed my way of thinking on my own project . very simplistic builder . I think most glues call for 60 or 65 degrees ,but it will tell you on the tube . You would need to leave the heat on over night to cure properly I think .There is a top class B builder that uses and swears by Rockwool .
 

luthj

Engineer In Residence
If you apply constant pressure, and are judicious with your usage great stuff makes a decent poor mans adhesive. Not what I would use, but has been used often enough, that its been show to work.

For filling body cavities, great stuff cannot be filled more than 2-3" at a time. it needs time exposed to H20 in the air to cure. Otherwise a big mess of uncured goo will result. Same goes for low temperatures, takes longer to cure. If we are just talking 1/16" thick to bond some foam, Maybe 50 degrees is warm enough. remember, this is the surface temp, not the air temp. If using a heater, this means pushing the interior temp up to ~80F, so that the vans skin is a fair bit above ambient.
 

jacobconroy

Hillbilly of Leisure
All good infos. The reason I liked the idea of Great Stuff is because it (in theory) would eliminate voids behind the foam panels. I'm not sure that PL 300 would or could do that unless it was applied with a trowel. Also not sure how much it really matters on a 30 year old van that probably won't live another 20 years (for condensation).

Luthj...what adhesive would you use for the foam-to-metal layer?

I had planned to install panels with braces until dried. Of course, it would be nice if it could be done faster. Hell, I have a lot of experience with "real" contact cement for laminate countertops. It's fast, but unforgiving. No idea if it will bond to foam either.

The idea of "goopy" Great Stuff turns me off.
 

jacobconroy

Hillbilly of Leisure
Another item for deep thoughts:

Propane manifold. For now I only need gas for the Propex, but there is a very real chance of changing the Snow Peak stoves (or a different stove) to propane later, and a fairly realistic chance of adding a small water heater later. So, that makes for three manifold ports. Which means I should add four. Or five if I add a high-pressure propane camp fire for no-burn season.

Has anyone found a smallish propane manifold that will handle 300+ PSI and has individual shutoff valves for each line?

I can build one manually out of brass but would probably pay for something fast and easy.
 

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