Help with steinbauer tuning module

cameronsturgess

Active member
Hi all. Trying to install a steinbauer module on a 2010 and a 2017 Mitsubishi fg140. However my challenge is which accelerator pedal sensor wire to use ?? Seems both have a sensor one and sensor two wire. attached are the pages from the shop manual for the two different model years. I am guessing to use Sensor one for the 2017 as the plot is linear 1.2V to 4.5V... I haven't pulled the sensor out so I can get at the wires on the 2010, but that is tomorrows project. any help would be appreciated :) thanks..Cam
 

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cameronsturgess

Active member
Thanks Owen. I read thru your very detailed explanation on the Steinbauer installation. you've had much better success with steinbauer modules than I did..I did 2010 and 2017 today and both failed :(

The 2010 Fuso FG140 which has a 4.9 litre, 4M50 engine was wired up as per the Steinbauer instructions.. positive to the battery terminal, negative to the negative terminal.. at least that is how the diagram shows and what the instructions on the left side of the instruction page state. Now re reading the instructions the right side stresses that the negative should be connected to the engine block and the red to the alternator. the reference wire on the 2010 is the # 5 connector on wiring loom going to the accelerator. #5 is sensor 1.. as opposed to sensor 2.. not sure why there are two sensors.. I did check the voltage on #5 and it was 0.85V at idle and 4.5V at full throttle. lights on the Steinbauer module were correct after the install.. red light on and yellow light flickering at idle with ignition on but engine off.. with engine on the Steinbauer red light flashes slowly at idle and faster as throttle is applied.

driving the vehicle was pleasing in that there is extra power.. that is until engine codes start to show up. first one was Low rail pressure.. second one P0251.which is common rail pressure defect. disconnecting power to the module took the engine back to normal

similar for the 2017 only instead of a couple of codes this engine threw 15 codes.. and put itself in regeneration mode very quickly. similar connections only this one was connected to the engine block as a ground rather than the battery terminal. removing the power did not restore the engine.. instead I removed all the connections and went back to the factory wiring. I clearly need to learn how to reset codes on the 2017 as my OBD reader won't clear permanent codes.


Now that I have read the right Side of the steinbauer installation (as opposed to the left side of the instruction page) it would say that I need to wire the positive to the alternator and the negative to the engine block away from the alternator... this is tomorrows project.

any advice is appreciated... laughter welcome too.. it didn't seem all that funny to be tearing apart the 2017 in the princess auto parking lot.. however I am sure we made a few peoples day...
 

gait

Explorer
don't know if it helps with your OBD codes. May not be available on your model. On my 2005 Mitsubishi provided 2 wires which can be disconnected/reconnected in various combinations to provide blink codes to engine dashboard light, and, more importantly for you, provides for clearing all codes.
 

SkiFreak

Crazy Person
Obviously, I did not encounter any of the issues you have described during your Steinbauer install.
I am actually quite surprised that you are getting the error codes you mention, as the Steinbauer unit works post ECU. The ECU should not even know it is there.
From how it was explained to me, by the guy that actually wrote the map for the 4M50 engine in Australia, the unit senses and intercepts the main injection pulse and extends it slightly, allowing more fuel to go through the injectors.

From memory, my installation instructions mentioned nothing about wiring to the alternator or engine block. Mine is wired directly to the negative of the battery and ignition power.

If you don't mind me asking... where did you get the Steinbauer unit from?
 

cameronsturgess

Active member
don't know if it helps with your OBD codes. May not be available on your model. On my 2005 Mitsubishi provided 2 wires which can be disconnected/reconnected in various combinations to provide blink codes to engine dashboard light, and, more importantly for you, provides for clearing all codes.
Similar on my 2010. It’s easier to plug in an obd2 reader and clear the codes quickly. On the 2017 there is a way to clear codes via the dash.
 

cameronsturgess

Active member
Obviously, I did not encounter any of the issues you have described during your Steinbauer install.
I am actually quite surprised that you are getting the error codes you mention, as the Steinbauer unit works post ECU. The ECU should not even know it is there.
From how it was explained to me, by the guy that actually wrote the map for the 4M50 engine in Australia, the unit senses and intercepts the main injection pulse and extends it slightly, allowing more fuel to go through the injectors.

From memory, my installation instructions mentioned nothing about wiring to the alternator or engine block. Mine is wired directly to the negative of the battery and ignition power.

If you don't mind me asking... where did you get the Steinbauer unit from?
Hi Owen. That’s what I thought too :). The steinbauer module works by extending the injector pulse. However in both cases the ECU were definitely effected. I dialogued with steinbauer USA directly to determine the correct model number for the 2010 and 2017. I purchased the units thru taber diesel who were really helpful. They did suggest to me that they have seen lots of issues connecting to the battery rather than to the alternator and engine block. Apparently any small voltage difference between what the ecu sees and what the steinbauer module sees will cause engine codes. It’s minus 7c here today but if there is no snow I may see if I can switch from battery terminals to alternator / engine block. I will also put a switch on the dash so I can disconnect the module to take me out of limp mode if it causes the engine to throw another code.

there is also a section of the installation manual steinbauer sent me that Suggests using the potentiometer on the back to adjust up and down until the unit stops causing engine codes. Seems pretty trial and error ??
 

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SkiFreak

Crazy Person
There never used to be a Steinbauer model specifically for the 4M50 FG Canter available outside of Australia. I guess that this is no longer the case.
As I mentioned previously, one of the guys here actually wrote the map for the FG Canter, so he obviously had a strong understanding of the setup. I have never heard of connecting the wiring as you describe.
Yeah, I know... that does not really help you, but I know a few people with these units installed on their trucks and they have all done the install as I described.

Quite some time back I helped Westyss get an Australian programmed Steinbauer unit for his FG140. Like me, he has not had any issues with the Australian programmed unit.

The sensitivity adjustment on the rear of the unit was left in the default position on my unit. If I were in your position I would try adjusting that from one extreme to the other and see if it makes any difference. It cannot make it worse.

I have had the Steinbauer unit on my truck for a long time now and it has never caused a single error code.
I can only assume that there are minor differences between the US/Canadian and Australian versions of this unit.
 

cameronsturgess

Active member
My plan is to talk to the dealer and likely steinbauer tomorrow to see if there is a better plan than the trial and error of turning the potentiometer up and down. I was thinking the same thing though. Try either extreme and go from there. I’ll let you know what happens tomorrow 😃
 

cameronsturgess

Active member
Hi Cameron, attached is an excerpt from the service manual that describes how to access and clear codes thru the dash. The new trucks are uh, active communicators. I've had a check engine light for failing to set the dash clock!
Thanks :). Appreciate the help. We have three trucks between us. Mine is the 2010. Tony’s 2013 and a 2017. They are all a bit different. Mine seems old school with the 4.9 4M50 in it. It’s easy to clear codes with a 50 dollar reader/eraser.
 

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