Help, grinding noise!

Ramdough

Adventurer
I have a 2002 Tacoma 3.4L dcab 4x4 with 230k miles on it.

Two years ago, I had a front bearing go out. I replaced both front bearings, all seals, coil overs, steering rod ends, and upper and lower ball joints while I was in there.

A few months ago, I heard what sounded like my right bearing going out again, so I replaced that bearing and seals. I also did a rear axle seal on the right side as well. I drove about 200 yards and my ABS started activating randomly. I reseated both sensors and it improved a little, but still activating when I am not slipping. I thought that maybe my CV nuts were loose, so I retightened them in case my tone ring was not clamped. Same problem, but this is not my biggest problem. I drove home that night and intermittently I heard that bearing grind sound. This time it was much quieter and on the driver side. Later I took the truck on a dirt road, put it in 4L and locked the rear locker just to spin everything. The sound improved a little. A few days later, the sound got worse, so I replaced the left bearing and seals. Made almost no change to the sound. The sound is speed dependent. When I go faster the sound is louder. When I swerve right or left, I can cause the grinding sound. I can effect the noise when at highway speed and I steer. It sounds and feels like it is coming from below my feet. It really sounds like a front bearing, but both have been swapped. The cv’s are original and the boots are intact. The brakes are at 50% and look normal.
Tomorrow, I plan to check the front diff fluid level.

It is strange thing is that body roll or steering makes the noise more pronounced.

I could do the rear bearings next, but the sound appears to be in the front.

I am really grasping at straws now. What does everyone think?

thanks in advance for any suggestions.


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GI Pirate

Observer
Have you checked play in the Ujoints on the shafts? I had a bad joint in rear shaft that sounded similar.
 

bkg

Explorer
check the bearing on the drivers side of the front carrier... may be some play there. Was a bigger issue in the 05+ tacoma's, but can happen in the others...
 

Ramdough

Adventurer
check the bearing on the drivers side of the front carrier... may be some play there. Was a bigger issue in the 05+ tacoma's, but can happen in the others...

Can I just push in the cv and see if it moves or did you do something else?


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Ramdough

Adventurer
I tried shaking the drive shaft to see if there is any slop....none. Gonna grease the joints for good measure today and see if anything changes.

I will drop the skid plate later and check the diff oil level and try to move the cv shafts at the diff end to see if there is any movement.

Thoughts?


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bkg

Explorer
Can I just push in the cv and see if it moves or did you do something else?


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see if you can grab the inner CV and move it up and down... If there's movement, it's possible there may be a bad bearing... had the issue on my 2010. Made a weird noise.
 
Sounds can resonate through the chassis. Even though it sounds like it is coming from one corner, it can actually be a different one. Replacing parts without finding the source of the problem is a substantial waste of money and time.

Put the truck on four jack stands and put it in 4H and in drive and have someone increase speed while you get underneath with a stethoscope/ long screwdriver against your ear and touch the outside of any rotating piece to locate the source of the noise. You'll have to also take a pair of vice grips wrapped in electrical tape to clamp off the non rotating wheels and lightly hold the brake to allow the power to transfer through the differentials to the opposite wheels.

The ABS issue being intermittent will take a scan tool, or doing a resistance check on all 4 sensors. If you also have a damaged tooth on the tone ring it will affect the waveform causing the light to come on. If you're also low on brake fluid that will throw the light on.

Some of these procedures aren't necessarily easy to do, but proper diagnostics is the first thing to do before ever replacing anything.
 

Ramdough

Adventurer
Sounds can resonate through the chassis. Even though it sounds like it is coming from one corner, it can actually be a different one. Replacing parts without finding the source of the problem is a substantial waste of money and time.

Put the truck on four jack stands and put it in 4H and in drive and have someone increase speed while you get underneath with a stethoscope/ long screwdriver against your ear and touch the outside of any rotating piece to locate the source of the noise. You'll have to also take a pair of vice grips wrapped in electrical tape to clamp off the non rotating wheels and lightly hold the brake to allow the power to transfer through the differentials to the opposite wheels.

The ABS issue being intermittent will take a scan tool, or doing a resistance check on all 4 sensors. If you also have a damaged tooth on the tone ring it will affect the waveform causing the light to come on. If you're also low on brake fluid that will throw the light on.

Some of these procedures aren't necessarily easy to do, but proper diagnostics is the first thing to do before ever replacing anything.

We put the truck on a car lift and ran it...... no noise when not driving and turning.

I need to find a scanner that can read the abs codes. Mine does not for some reason.


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