HeliNomad RAM PowerWagon Build

Pnwfullsize

Active member
It's a 3/4 ton truck that has less payload than a raptor...

Are the tremors like that too? There goes that purchase for me if so...

Its 100% due to the rear springs. Softer rate then the other rams. The tremor is leaf sprung and has more payload. You can see where the power wagons springs benefit when you watch a PW vs tremor offroad video and the tremor is 3 wheeling where the PW isnt. But yeah, no slide in campers with the PW atleast not legally.
 

gillbrak

Active member
Check your door sticker i wouldn't be surprised if it was less then 1660. A tradesman might have 1660 payload. My loaded 2018 has about 1380 or so.

Good call. Here is mine.
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HeliNomad

Adventurer
I think you can get it in there better. Did you air it down at all? Mine fits in level and it looks like you might not have it up all the way. I laid on my back and was hitting it to get it up tight. You could use a hammer to help.

Does yours rub the panhard bar? What tire do you have? Yes I took all the air out.


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Pnwfullsize

Active member
Does yours rub the panhard bar? What tire do you have? Yes I took all the air out.


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Mine does not rub, it sits above the bar otherwise it would likely rub. That's what i was thinking i may have my tire tucked higher up.
 

phsycle

Adventurer
I hate it when the internet is right. A little rubber mallet banging and sure enough it fit even higher, cleared the frame rail and got further from the panhard bar.
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I’m glad it fit. PW’s need at least 35’s to look right.
 

HeliNomad

Adventurer
Now that the spare tire has been sorted:

One of the first things I usually replace on a new vehicle build is the factory battery. Being new to Ram’s what is the recommended solution here for a high quality main battery that can handle reasonable cycling from running accessories and vibration on the trial. I’ve been a fan of Odyssey batteries in the past but would prefer a stock drop in solution with minimal to no modifications of the cradle.

As for dual battery set ups, I have transitioned away from that in favor of lithium solar generator systems for the camp environment. So really I’m just looking for a quality replacement of the factory battery which I assume is junk. Any suggestions?

Here’s a photo of what came on the truck:

d6e5b6e0a13315e07e94d215a19a3630.jpg



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Explorerinil

Observer
It's a 3/4 ton truck that has less payload than a raptor...

Are the tremors like that too? There goes that purchase for me if so...
The power wagon is designed to flex, the suspension has added joints to achieve this. With front and rear lockers and d rated tires the truck is designed to achieve maximum articulation and traction. The power wagon has no direct competitor at this point. The tremor is a lifted super duty with a front limited slip, rear locker, a lift and some 35’s. While this being a great truck to haul a load or camper into a ruff area, it can’t go places the power wagon can, and the power wagon can’t carry a load like the tremor. Having towed and hauled heavy loads with my power wagon I can say it does fine, I’m guessing some of the low payload has to do with liability since the truck does sit up higher and it has a soft suspension that’s designed to flex.

personally if I had an in bed camper and wanted something to take me into remote camp sites I would look hard at the tremor. But for me now that I don’t tow often or pull a heavy camper, the power wagon will take me into remote hunting spots and remote fishing spots in remote parts of Canada where those lockers, articulation and whinch come in handy that a tremor doesn’t have.

with 800 miles on my truck I was pulling down deer stands after late winter season and used both lockers to get me through a heavily washed out dirts road with 4 feet of drifted snow over it and used the winch to drag a buck out of a ravine... so if your doing stuff like I am, the power wagon is a great choice.
 

Explorerinil

Observer
Now that the spare tire has been sorted:

One of the first things I usually replace on a new vehicle build is the factory battery. Being new to Ram’s what is the recommended solution here for a high quality main battery that can handle reasonable cycling from running accessories and vibration on the trial. I’ve been a fan of Odyssey batteries in the past but would prefer a stock drop in solution with minimal to no modifications of the cradle.

As for dual battery set ups, I have transitioned away from that in favor of lithium solar generator systems for the camp environment. So really I’m just looking for a quality replacement of the factory battery which I assume is junk. Any suggestions?

Here’s a photo of what came on the truck:

d6e5b6e0a13315e07e94d215a19a3630.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
No I wouldn’t change it unless it’s bad. From my experience ram trucks come with very good batteries, I’ve never had an issue. My buddies 06 cummins still has the stock batteries.
 

HeliNomad

Adventurer
No I wouldn’t change it unless it’s bad. From my experience ram trucks come with very good batteries, I’ve never had an issue. My buddies 06 cummins still has the stock batteries.

Normally I would agree but with winch work and camping nights supporting gear there is no way a flooded acid battery will survive.


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Explorerinil

Observer
Normally I would agree but with winch work and camping nights supporting gear there is no way a flooded acid battery will survive.


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I see your point, I’m leaving mine until it goes bad though. I bought an agm Napa battery for a four wheeler awhile back, it’s been a damn good battery.
 

justinh

Observer
I typically run AGM batteries in all of our vehicles for various reasons. That said, I was pleasantly surprised to find out that Costco sells Interstate AGM batteries a few weeks ago, pricing was even less than the ones at retail parts houses.

We’ve only had it a few weeks so the jury is still out in longevity but Costco typically has one of the best return policies around so...
 

dstefan

Well-known member
As for dual battery set ups, I have transitioned away from that in favor of lithium solar generator systems for the camp environment. So really I’m just looking for a quality replacement of the factory battery which I assume is junk. Any suggestions?
We threw a Batteries+ X2 Power AGM 27F in my wife’s '18 4Runner 3 years years ago. 90 some AH. They’re made by Northstar, who makes some great Batteries. Similar rock solid design as Odesseys with pure lead plates, etc. can take all the offroad vibrations etc. Runs our 50qt ARB really well. No problems all night long, even in the Southwest heat. Lowest it’s gotten overnight is 12.5. Wouldn’t worry about two days on it. Run a 2 amp AGM battery minder on it occasionally and it sits reliably at 12.8.

The advantage of buying the Batteries+ version is the 5 year warranty, some specials on price (at least when I bought) and the large network if you ever have a problem.

I have a dual Odessey System in my Tacoma, which has been great for years, but won’t do it in my next rig after my experience with the 4Runner.
 

HeliNomad

Adventurer
Alright so I got some time work on the truck this weekend.

I installed the 94R Northstar AGM Battery. This thing is amazing. Perfect fit...like in every way perfect fit. Someone mentioned that you can go up a size in the battery tray, that is not the case for the 2020 Ram. The 94R takes up the entire tray and there are no extra knockouts to remove. Anyway, this is the best AGM available for this truck. BTW, I measured voltage right after install and it was 14.2 volts. Plenty for this battery to charge fully. I do have the dual alternators.

724d2e4dee8d39d006e41a7f5cff0b65.jpg


I also installed the SPod BantamX. I ordered the BantamX Touchscreen Universal with 36” Battery Cables (https://www.4x4spod.com/bantamx_w_touchscreen_universal). I was feeling bummed that my loaded truck didn’t have the factory upfitter switches, but with all the extra features (bluetooth, extra slave units, etc) I’m not missing it so much anymore. This thing is sweet.

Install is super easy on this truck since it has that massive aux cable firewall pass through. I mounted the unit to the top of the fuse box using the provided template. I put the cables to the rear of the box to make opening the box trivial.

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As for the head unit...I really didn’t want this thing up at the eye line. I have plans for other accessories such as a HAM Radio and iPad mount but didn’t want it in my face all of the time since it’s just a “switch”. So I went with a down low install...utilizing a piece of trim with a fabricated backing plate. It’s very strong, out of the way, but still glanceable.

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My last task for this round was to install an ARB fridge receptacle behind the rear seats. This was simple enough but I thought I would ask the experts regarding the appropriate way to enter the rear of the cab from the bottom of the truck. I didn’t want to drill the underbody if it could be avoided. I did these plugs but wasn’t sure if I was missing something obvious. Anyone want to offer advise here?

Here is the plug I am installing along with the underbody plugs I found.

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Lastly...was going to be the front light bar. I liked the look of this build and thought, based on the description, that I was ordering the right light. (https://www.happytrails4x4.com/single-post/2018/05/09/2018-RAM-2500-Power-Wagon-Build)

e6ff243fbef141be7477abf0c327a2e4.jpg


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I ordered a Rigid SR-Series Pro 30”, Spot Flood Combo (https://www.rigidindustries.com/sr-series-pro-sr-series.html) but it is way too deep to fit on the stock bumper like the referenced PW does above. Any ideas?

f8b8096efda7137e7854331b8eb0b0ac.jpg


That’s all for now. I appreciate your assistance. Thanks.





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