Grumman the Backcountry Box Van____1997 Ford E450 7.3l Power Stroke diesel

[Petrolburner]

Ok, serious question here.* My van has semi truck sized mudflaps.* I was talking with Kathleen and said that since it has semi truck sized mud flaps, the only reasonable solution is to get the ones with the hot naked lady in chrome on black rubber.* Right?* She gave me an odd look.* I said well I guess you could also run the "Back Off" mud flaps with Yosemite Sam on them.* That would be reasonable.**


Current mud flaps removed for the frame painting. They're 24" wide by 26" tall.


Untitled by Petrolburner, on Flickr

Replacement flaps are 24" wide by 30" tall. 4" taller. Should be fine as is and even better after a lift and bigger tires.

$123 shipped is the best price I've found for the fiberglass reinforced rubber that stays flexible in the cold. What do you think? Are there cooler mud flaps out there? Is it a waste of money as long as the white ones aren't cracked?

 

[java]

I got a single rubber (reinforced with something) one from Orielly for like $12, no cool pics on it though. Used it in front of my passenger side to protect the propane tank.

Look on Iowa80, they may have them cheaper.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[Treenail]

If you get plain old rubber flaps you might find that the flexing at the mounting bolts tears out the flap

Simple solution. Get three chain links...⅜ chain is plenty big. Slip a bolt through one link...then a fender washer...then through the flap...then through a fender washer...then either washer/lock washer nut or Loctite or locknut

Use the third link to mount to the truck...same setup

The middle link acts as a hinge so that the flap doesn't bend.

Fiber reinforced flaps are less likely to bend and tear out

 

[Petrolburner]

I took some daytime photos of the finished product this morning.

Untitled by Petrolburner, on Flickr

Untitled by Petrolburner, on Flickr

Untitled by Petrolburner, on Flickr

 

[Petrolburner]

If you get plain old rubber flaps you might find that the flexing at the mounting bolts tears out the flap

Simple solution. Get three chain links...⅜ chain is plenty big. Slip a bolt through one link...then a fender washer...then through the flap...then through a fender washer...then either washer/lock washer nut or Loctite or locknut

Use the third link to mount to the truck...same setup

The middle link acts as a hinge so that the flap doesn't bend.

Fiber reinforced flaps are less likely to bend and tear out

Chain link is a good idea as a hinge. Those white flaps are likely the originals, now 20 years old. Hard to tell exactly what they're made of. They have almost no flex. I'm also scared to try to bend them because I think they're so old and brittle that they'll break.

 

[tmo2460]

That frame is looking good! Makes me want to do mine...

 

[Treenail]

Paint looks great!

Those white flaps look like fiber reinforced ones. Keep em.

Check the DOT regs to make sure the flaps are wide enough and long enough. There's some formula about percentages lower than the center of the tire

 

[shenrie]

http://www.raneystruckparts.com/pol...MI5Z-m99qX2AIVEHR-Ch20VQM2EAQYASABEgJWUfD_BwE

Priced right and represents what's under the hood.

Cool build man. Look forward to seeing end result.

 

[Coachgeo]

Before you put the floor in... would be good time to consider doing Hydronic floor heating such as http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f51/hydronic-radiant-heating-in-a-bus-9024.html There is of course many threads on this board on this topic too.

 

[Petrolburner]

Before you put the floor in... would be good time to consider doing Hydronic floor heating such as http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f51/hydronic-radiant-heating-in-a-bus-9024.html There is of course many threads on this board on this topic too.

On the previous page I mentioned the Webasto I already bought. I just don't have the time to learn all about a hydronic heating system. Plus the time, expense, weight, and complexity. I'd prefer to stay simple. The benefits are pretty appealing though, warm floor, warm engine, and a defrosted windshield.

 

[Petrolburner]

Any suggestions on fasteners for the base plywood to the frame? 5/16" by 1 1/2" long self tapping trailer decking screws? 100 will let me get all the edges and roughly one foot spacing on all the I beams.

 

[RC413]

Any suggestions on fasteners for the base plywood to the frame? 5/16" by 1 1/2" long self tapping trailer decking screws? 100 will let me get all the edges and roughly one foot spacing on all the I beams.

Any plans on using an adhesive on the beam to ply surface? Thinking for rigidity and noise deadening. I dont see why the same style fastener that you removed would not work, as long as it will sit flush even on the plywood.


Thanks Ross

 

[Petrolburner]

https://m.ebay.com/itm/-100-5-16-X-...CK-SCREWS-T-40-DRIVE/151011352249?_mwBanner=1

This is what I went with. I plan on using something like a polyurethane adhesive on the beams to glue them in place as well as prevent water from getting in between the wood and metal beams and just sitting there.

 

[Putts]

Sikaflex 221 is awesome!

 

[Petrolburner]

The build is going to be slowed down for awhile. I'm in a sling for 6 weeks.

Fractured clavicle by Petrolburner, on Flickr