Great White: A Chevy K10 Build

Ouiwee

Observer
The brown truck dropped off the headers and pipes with new inconel heat shielding. They look fantastic.

KIMG0678.JPG

KIMG0679_2.JPG

KIMG0680_2.JPG

KIMG0681_2.JPG

KIMG0682_2.JPG

The last shot is of the catalytic converter--those things really get hot. Toward the right one can see the v-band clamp and how it gets shielded as well.

The shields are safety wired in place and thus easy to remove.
 

Ouiwee

Observer
The heat shields sure enough make a huge difference. The fit is great.

Who needs spark plug boots?

KIMG0689.JPG

KIMG0690.JPG

KIMG0692.JPG

KIMG0691.JPG

I have a hot firewall, so I guess some additional heat insulation is in order.
 

Ouiwee

Observer
I finally got to the emergency/parking brake. It seems the plan worked without a snag. Here is a shot of the set up.

KIMG0698.JPG

KIMG0699.JPG



Here is what the cable split looks like. I used a Lokar kit.



KIMG0701.JPG

It would have made sense to start with new rotors, but it is a pain in the neck to pull off the hub and press in/out the lugs. It will take a bit of use to seat the new pads.
 

Ouiwee

Observer
I put the old girl on some scales the other day full of fuel. The total was 6,880 lbs. That means 6,600 lbs sans me and the dog.
 

Ouiwee

Observer
I ordered aluminum tube for the roof rack. I guess that is the next fabrication project.

I still have to convert the fuel system to in-tank pumps for all tanks. I have a start on the valves required to run 3 fuel tanks.
 

Ouiwee

Observer
I finally got round to fabricating a box to hold the 6-port valves. I wanted to centralize the valves and protect them from heat and water. I'll mount it under the bed behind the cross member that holds the rear of the cab. Ordinarily I would not use worm clamps, but at most we are talking 10 psi and it makes servicing the valves straightforward.

KIMG0003.JPG

There are 6 inputs (feed and return for each of 3 fuel tanks) and two outputs.

KIMG0005.JPG

KIMG0006.JPG

KIMG0007.JPG

I have to figure out how to do the electrical in/out and sort out the wiring itself. I'll fit a heat shield on the bottom of the box since the exhaust will be directly below it. This set up will allow me to cycle between 3 fuel tanks by switching supply lines, return lines, and fuel level sender wire.

I've got the new pumps and hangers for the saddle tanks. Wiring is what remains...and removing the bed to get to it all.
 

Ouiwee

Observer
Okay, so I was bored and decided to pull off at a construction site. Here it is with a rear tire just barely on the ground.

KIMG0008.JPG

Full stuff on the driver side.

KIMG0009.JPG

The 35's just barely clear...it's as low as I can keep it and get it to all work.

As it sits, the rear wheel is just about off the ground.

KIMG0011.JPG

Now where is all that square body frame twist??


The new Garmin GPS is what can be seen through the rear glass. It finally came in stock.
 

Ouiwee

Observer
I have a design together and some parts cut. There will be a lot of welding on this project.

KIMG0012.JPG

The truck is tall enough. I'm attempting to keep the tent, which is roughly 14" thick, from sticking up too far. The truck barely fits in parking garages as it stands...
 

Ouiwee

Observer
I moved the ball forward a smidge today. Here one can see the geometry--it has a 20 degree inward slant. The angle from the top down is 45 degrees. The total height above the side rails is 18".

KIMG0016.JPG

It's nice to have the army truck for test fitting everything. The sides of the bed are covered with a 3" angle that will have foam on the inside and bottom to keep the paint intact.

KIMG0015.JPG

KIMG0014.JPG

And some welding done after work.

KIMG0017.JPG

The primary purpose is to mount a tent above. I reckon there would be room for some side compartments for storing things. I could also fabricate a floor since I have 1/4" angle on which to bolt or weld whatever needs be. There should be storage on top as well, depending on where the tent is placed (96 inch bed with the tailgate closed).
 

Ouiwee

Observer
I know this thread has become solipsistic, but I don't have a good reason for preferring 5 ribs at 24" centers versus 4 with the inner ribs to allow 24" between them on the end and 40" between them in the middle. I guess it would hold more weight with 5 ribs instead of 4.

What say you out there?
 

bknudtsen

Expedition Leader
How much weight do you think you’d put up that high? I think 4 is more than adequate. Makes reaching through from the sides easier as well.
 

Ouiwee

Observer
How much weight do you think you’d put up that high? I think 4 is more than adequate. Makes reaching through from the sides easier as well.
I reckon 200 lbs for the tent + two people or so. Maybe 500 lbs total? I decided to go with 5 just for the hell of it.

I welded two 'ribs' on there and checked for deflection under load. They don't seem to move much at all.

KIMG0021.JPG

KIMG0022.JPG


It takes all the power my welder can muster for the 1/4" angle. I'm laying it on thick.

KIMG0020.JPG


I decided to leave 24" between the first two ribs behind the cab. The remaining 3 ribs have 20.5" between them.

I'm inclined to build some lockers on either side in the first 24" space with pop up doors.
 
Top