Got the bug and building an m416 big brother

Copasspupil

Observer
Older generator frame overall length 11'6"x 6'7" at the wheels frame measures 7'6" x 5'. My goal is to make this trailer ready to go by August '17, but hopefully it will be done earlier. I'll get pics when I pick it up.

I know that I'm placing 3500lb axle with electric brakes on it, max coupler and jeep wheels to match my jku. M416 inspired off road trailer build with cvt mt shasta on top. Lots of inspiration from others here on the forum.

Thanks,

Dan
 
Last edited:

Copasspupil

Observer
A couple pics of my trailer. It does have a 3500 lbs axle. unknown if it has a military history or not. I was told by someone today and it was but unable to find info on it. Still has the bias ply tires on it. I hope to dig into it soon since my parts are beginning to arrive.





The frame is 2 1/2" square tubing at .120 wall thickness all around. I've got some cutting and removing of the excess within the frame to do then add some 2" to go east/west on it.
 
Last edited:

Copasspupil

Observer
Thanks.

I have come to a dilemma. My hitch coupler is a max coupler which is 2" and my trailer is 3". I saw etrailer has a reducer from 3" to 2" then add the Max? Normally I would think that this would not be the best idea but is there another idea?
 

Martyinco

Adventurer
Thanks.

I have come to a dilemma. My hitch coupler is a max coupler which is 2" and my trailer is 3". I saw etrailer has a reducer from 3" to 2" then add the Max? Normally I would think that this would not be the best idea but is there another idea?
Yes you should be fine with a reducer, probably the quickest and easiest solution.
 

Copasspupil

Observer
Thanks Marty.

I ordered the new axle and brakes today. 6robblees is who I ordered from and will be picking everything up Tuesday they were fantastic to deal with. Better get busy.
 

Copasspupil

Observer
Well after removing the unwanted section of the trailer and axle, I have some grinding and removal of the leftover pieces on the frame I don't need along with the "V" rears that have to be removed before it goes to the sandblaster. Once finished, its off to a buddies to get painted in his booth and securely weld the axle on and the floor. Shock mounts seems to be the only item that is pressing at this time. Once I get those, adding to the rear of the frame and welding it up, it should be able to move on it own. I have purchased the XO front jack, axle, tires and rims, max coupler and primer. I have to pick up the flooring next week once the frame is finished and add to the frame.

Mock up of the trailer:
 

Dragons_fire

New member
Pretty sure it's a terex Ameda AL5000 trailer. Should have a generator and then a light mast on the plate at the front above the tongue
 

Copasspupil

Observer
I can tell you that it had a rear jack in the middle and the front had possibly 2 jacks that slid out. Thanks for the letting me know.
 

Dragons_fire

New member
After looking a little close, it's not the al5000. That's what I built my trailer from and there is slight differences. The al5000 is also made from 2x4 box for the whole frame
 

Copasspupil

Observer
Trying to figure out what happened to my previous post but ok.

My trailer build is a takeoff of an M416 only slightly taller. Using a frame of 1" 0.065 wall thickness and using 12g for the floor and sides. I was planning on making a frame then welding it to the floor and welding the sides to it. Total height is around 25".

Will that be strong enough for a rooftop tent similarly to CVT bar setup on their website or should I go with thicker 1"?
 

Copasspupil

Observer
Brought back the frame today from the sandblaster, applied the phosphoric acid after and need to run to the hardware store then welding tonight and friday.

 

Copasspupil

Observer
So I'm finishing up the underneath welding of the frame, leaf springs and shackles.

Here's my dilemma. I'm at the point where I must weld the hangers on the drivers side. My axle is at the same linial location. The front hangers are within 1/8" of each other, the centerline of the axle lines up and the rear hanger are in the exact position of each other. The rear hanger are within 0.1 degree of each other. Am I good enough to weld it up??
 

workingonit71

Aspirantes ad Adventure
slight discrepancy won't do harm; no two wheels or springs ever ride identically

So I'm finishing up the underneath welding of the frame, leaf springs and shackles.

Here's my dilemma. I'm at the point where I must weld the hangers on the drivers side. My axle is at the same linial location. The front hangers are within 1/8" of each other, the centerline of the axle lines up and the rear hanger are in the exact position of each other. The rear hanger are within 0.1 degree of each other. Am I good enough to weld it up??
  • I've swapped axles on cars, trucks, and trailers over the years, sometimes fabricating on a workbench, others while lying in the mud in a field. I've replaced old broken parts (a spring of unknown age or rating, with a fresh new spring, that was the only one I could get) using the "good enough" system. It works 99% of the time. As long as you get it close to matching. Your 0.1 degree discrepancy is probably closer than some factory jobs I've seen, and closer than I can probably set on my home-made jigs.
  • frame reinforcemet & spring hanger assembly made on workbench.jpg homemade assembly ; precise...probably not
  • assembly mounted on frame rail.jpg assembly alignment was by triangulation
  • I made frame reinforcement/spring hanger assemblies to strengthen an replace the axle, hangers, and springs on my squareback trailer, a few years ago. One of the hangers tore loose, and I needed to repair the tear in the frame, so I just upgraded it all, by going heavy-duty and replacing everything. As you can see in the picture above, I aligned by sight, matching spring locator pins, lines drawn on the 1/4" angle steel, and moving the rear hanger into position while holding the spring in my hand(quickly tacking it at one spot. Then, I just matched that spot on the other. No angular measurements were ever taken, just experience, and approximation were "good enough". I had also replaced springs & axles on my car hauler 7 years earlier, without moving the spring hangers, and nothing lined up with the old parts, A BFH was used to align those parts.
  • As a vehicle or trailer moves over the road, or non-road, both tires/wheels/springs will experience different bumps, bounces, shocks, and shudder, due to varying conditions each encounters.There is a lot of free play in the motions, and more as the system ages. 1/10th of a degree variance from side-to-side isn't a big deal. I couldn't even measure that, with my set of tools, anyway.
 

Copasspupil

Observer
Great thanks. Now if I could find what I did to that leaf spring seat I moved I'd be a happy man. To think of the time I've wasted looking for parts or tools would just about make me shake my head in discussed. Crap it's getting me frustrated.
 
Top