Goal Zero Yeti 400 Experiences?

dcg141

Adventurer
I have a Dometic fridge, is it better run it off the 110 inverter or the 12 volt output from the Yeti? I would assume the 12 volt is more efficient.
 

jprovence

New member
I have a Dometic fridge, is it better run it off the 110 inverter or the 12 volt output from the Yeti? I would assume the 12 volt is more efficient.
The 12v port on the front on the unit supports a max current of 10 amps. So you would want to make sure the fridge is less than that and stick with 12v. Though, it seems that most people have fridges hardwired to batteries. The 12v on the Yeti isn't a true hardwire straight to the batteries. Though you could use the chain connector on the side and get direct current from the battery.
 

mellorrob

New member
The 12v port on the front on the unit supports a max current of 10 amps. So you would want to make sure the fridge is less than that and stick with 12v. Though, it seems that most people have fridges hardwired to batteries. The 12v on the Yeti isn't a true hardwire straight to the batteries. Though you could use the chain connector on the side and get direct current from the battery.
I run my ARB50 off the 12V output just fine. This is the most efficient since it uses some power just to run the inverter on the yeti (look at the draw with just the button pushed for the inverter.) Also don't run accessories off of the anderson poles on the sides of the unit. These are only for chaining multiple yeti's together. Using these bypasses the display and all of the under voltage protection built in.
 

bigskypylot

Explorer
I have the 400 (purchased in June of 2105) had to replace due to the display taking a crap intermittently. I used an MC4 to a female cigarette plug where I could use the GZ cigarette to 8mm input from my 100W Renogy suitcase. Works great. I see they are now coming out with the Yeti 1000 Lithium. Was contemplating the NL PPP with a group 31 X2 Bluetop and a 1000W Bluetooth inverter to use as a dual battery system. By the time you add up the PPP ($560), X2 ($379), Intelligent Split Charging Kit ($395) versus whatever the 1000 will cost, would you be better off with the GZ or NL PPP? Not sure of the dims or weight on the GZ1000, but it would be much more portable and conceal able, I would venture to say. I want to be able to run fridge, assorted accessories and compressor off it if need be. Also, I need to get on that 12v 8mm input direct battery connection. Charging from the vehicle via the inadequate cigarette socket is futile at best IMO.
 

mellorrob

New member
I have the 400 (purchased in June of 2105) had to replace due to the display taking a crap intermittently. I used an MC4 to a female cigarette plug where I could use the GZ cigarette to 8mm input from my 100W Renogy suitcase. Works great. I see they are now coming out with the Yeti 1000 Lithium. Was contemplating the NL PPP with a group 31 X2 Bluetop and a 1000W Bluetooth inverter to use as a dual battery system. By the time you add up the PPP ($560), X2 ($379), Intelligent Split Charging Kit ($395) versus whatever the 1000 will cost, would you be better off with the GZ or NL PPP? Not sure of the dims or weight on the GZ1000, but it would be much more portable and conceal able, I would venture to say. I want to be able to run fridge, assorted accessories and compressor off it if need be. Also, I need to get on that 12v 8mm input direct battery connection. Charging from the vehicle via the inadequate cigarette socket is futile at best IMO.
There's nothing up on the GZ main site about the Yeti 1000 yet but I did stumble upon this http://www.goalzero.com/costco/ It lists the size and weighs and the rumored price is $1000 (edited the price thanks to bigskypyot's research.) I'm contemplating one to run my gas furnace since it list 3000 watts surge. I already have a transfer switch and a honda 2000 for the furnace now in an emergency. But I like the idea of using this for stealth (not getting my generator stolen at night) then charging this with the honda or solar in the day. I guess I need to put a kill-a-watt inline, flip the transfer switch and see how many watts the blower pulls at start up.
 
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bigskypylot

Explorer
I just spoke with GZ. THE 1000 will be 1k, the 1400 will be 2k. The dimensions will be like 10.1H for the 1000 and 10.5 for the 1400. Having a 1500w pure sine wave inverter would really be nice to have that all-in-one. I have a Yamaha EF2000is which I love but hate hauling it around in the back of the Xterra. FullSize time lol
 

mellorrob

New member
I just spoke with GZ. THE 1000 will be 1k, the 1400 will be 2k. The dimensions will be like 10.1H for the 1000 and 10.5 for the 1400. Having a 1500w pure sine wave inverter would really be nice to have that all-in-one. I have a Yamaha EF2000is which I love but hate hauling it around in the back of the Xterra. FullSize time lol
Thanks for tracking down the pricing. I've just been reading lots of blogs and product releases from the out door show and CES. I've heard mentioned a lithium 400, 1400 and supposedly a 3000 in fall 2017. I guess I should have looked a little closer at my own link and noted that it was actually a 1000. I haven't seen that one pop in any of the blogs. Chaining two 1000's for the same price as a 1400 would work for me. I've also heard rumored a gas generator in the fall as well as cheaper boulder 50, 100 and a briefcase 100 panels. They definitely have some stuff coming out that interests me.

http://www.digitaltrends.com/outdoors/goal-zero-next-generation-power-ces-2017/

https://www.anglingtrade.com/2016/08/04/goal-zero-unveils-new-goal-zero-yeti-lithium-portable-power-station/

http://www.digitaltrends.com/outdoors/goal-zero-announces-yeti-fuel-at-ces-2017/
 

bigskypylot

Explorer
Thanks for tracking down the pricing. I've just been reading lots of blogs and product releases from the out door show and CES. I've heard mentioned a lithium 400, 1400 and supposedly a 3000 in fall 2017. I guess I should have looked a little closer at my own link and noted that it was actually a 1000. I haven't seen that one pop in any of the blogs. Chaining two 1000's for the same price as a 1400 would work for me. I've also heard rumored a gas generator in the fall as well as cheaper boulder 50, 100 and a briefcase 100 panels. They definitely have some stuff coming out that interests me.

http://www.digitaltrends.com/outdoors/goal-zero-next-generation-power-ces-2017/

https://www.anglingtrade.com/2016/08/04/goal-zero-unveils-new-goal-zero-yeti-lithium-portable-power-station/

http://www.digitaltrends.com/outdoors/goal-zero-announces-yeti-fuel-at-ces-2017/
Definitely... having two of them chained together for the price of one 1400 would work very well. I was confused as well at first because I heard the 400, 1400 and the 3000 then I saw the Digital Trends article and it started mentioning the 1000. one of those and my 400 would do alright for now along with the 100W suitcase. That brings me back to my original question of whether or not it would be better getting the NL PPP set-up with the grp31 deep cycle X2. I won't be getting it til summer at least so i supposed that gives me plenty of time to make an informed decision and see what the initial experiences of the new lithium line are from the folks here.
 

e60ral

2016 4Runner Trail w/KDSS
Question for people running fridges, how long do they run? I have a Dometic 40 but I'm finding that the factory battery isn't enough,

How long does your fridge run in summer temps? I don't know what kind of duty to expect on the compressor. 20% run time?

What I'm planning on doing is plugging the Yeti 400 into an always on 12v circuit that has a battery protect disconnect at 12v, that way after the battery runs down it will then run solely off the yeti 400. My goal is at least 18 hours, being able to last a weekend would be great but so far I don't think that's realistic.

The hero 1250 is too big and the new lithium 1000 too expensive (at that point I would just go dual battery). Arkpak is another option but it's not that much less that dual battery,

Thoughts?

Sent from my P00A using Tapatalk
 

North

Observer
Question for the collective:

I have my Yeti 400 hardwired to the car battery via 8mm to MC4 connectors and 8AWG wire, like many other posters have shown here. It charges when the vehicle is running and works great.

For output, I have the 12V to ring terminal cord connected to a Blue Sea fuse panel for all of my accessory circuits (currently just LED lights and Propex heater). Up until yesterday, everything was functioning as planned. Then, I plugged the Yeti into 120V to give it a charge, as I'd drained the battery testing my systems and hadn't driven the vehicle in a bit. Now after switching back to the 8mm/MC4 input, my 12V circuits are always on. The 12V button doesn't turn any of the circuits off, and I'm using more wattage than I should be. The 120V sockets and USB ports function normally. If I unplug the 8mm/MC4 cable, the 12V circuits function normally. If I use the 120V cable for input, the 12V circuits function normally. I cannot have both the 8mm to MC4 input and 12V output plugged in simultaneously or the 12V is always on. Any ideas on what happened here? I swear I had this working until using the 120V charger.
 

e60ral

2016 4Runner Trail w/KDSS
Question for the collective:

I have my Yeti 400 hardwired to the car battery via 8mm to MC4 connectors and 8AWG wire, like many other posters have shown here. It charges when the vehicle is running and works great.

For output, I have the 12V to ring terminal cord connected to a Blue Sea fuse panel for all of my accessory circuits (currently just LED lights and Propex heater). Up until yesterday, everything was functioning as planned. Then, I plugged the Yeti into 120V to give it a charge, as I'd drained the battery testing my systems and hadn't driven the vehicle in a bit. Now after switching back to the 8mm/MC4 input, my 12V circuits are always on. The 12V button doesn't turn any of the circuits off, and I'm using more wattage than I should be. The 120V sockets and USB ports function normally. If I unplug the 8mm/MC4 cable, the 12V circuits function normally. If I use the 120V cable for input, the 12V circuits function normally. I cannot have both the 8mm to MC4 input and 12V output plugged in simultaneously or the 12V is always on. Any ideas on what happened here? I swear I had this working until using the 120V charger.
I would call goalzero support or follow the reset procedure in the owners manual and open the top and disconnect the battery for whatever time it says to reset
 

Kalisaya Power

Supporting Sponsor
Hey Guys

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The KP601 is 558Wh and is only 14lb. It also comes with a 40-watt solar panel and a free APP that monitors storage and consumption of energy in real time. This really comes to use when my lights are on at a camping site and I would need to know how many hours through the night they would last.

Ive tested it on a ARB 50 Quart and it worked really well. I really like the portability.

Kalisayapower.com
 

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