Goal Zero Vs. Dual Battery Vs. Solo Group 31

[plh]

What about the 1 amp/hour test? Is there any validity to that? Say connect a 1 amp load (ie: I have an LED lamp that draws 1 amp nearly exact) and time that discharge for 240 minutes (4 hours) and scale that voltage change to where approximately a battery would "rate" compared to new?

For example: 112 a/hr Group 31 voltage starts at 12.84 and 4 hours later measures 12.76 (0.021 volt reduction per hour)

 

[DaveInDenver]

A 1 A/hr load on that example battery is more or less going be the C100 (e.g. the 100 hour capacity) rate, which isn't an unusual rating for a battery intended for deep cycle use. Not a lot of batteries will specify this or be tested for it since very few typical ones in 4x4 circles are actually designed for it. They're usually more like longish duration tolerant starting batteries than anything so you'll only get a C20 rating. But it's a good test because ~1 A/hr is fairly typical for a mid size fridge running at around a 33% or so duty cycle. My Engel MT45 draws about 2.5 amps running so I'll see about 1.25 A/hr in the mountains even in the height of summer.

 

[john61ct]

You can make up your own standard capacity test, as long as you do it just after your pre- commissioning cycles, say while still during the breaking in period.

That then becomes your benchmark to determine residual capacity as it declines over the years.

But since the 20-hour rate is "the" standard anyway, what your batt monitor requires to keep its SoC estimates accurate anyway, I just use that.

 

[kalieaire]

this summer. Here's my requirements:

* be able to charge devices while at camp
* be able to power auxillary lights, including a hard wired RTT light setup
* Not have to worry about compromising my ability to start the engine(can be mitigated with common sense and a jump pack?)
* In the future I'd probably add Winch+CB+Fridge
* Being able to run car electronics with the engine off(like radio etc.) is nice but not required
* Easy expansion to allow for solar

Trying to avoid the whole of mire of what AGM Battery is best and just replying to the OP here, because I don't think anyone really answered the question.

To start, it realistically depends on what your requirements are. Basically you want some power for your accessories and want your engine to start in the morning.

Another consideration here. Do you plan on driving fast? All the folks I know w/ group 31s and run deserts end up getting a crack in their fender well because the weight of a group 31 isn't so good in that spot.

I have a Group 31 AGM in the front, I don't drive that fast over rough terrain, and I have it powering an EdgeStar FP430 Freezer, my Kenwood TM-V71A Radio, my 12v Electric Blanket, Drone Battery charger, a multi-port USB charger that powers 4 BioLite PowerLight Minis, my phone, my tablet, and a bluetooth speaker for dem beats.

My only requirements were a deep cycle that can handle my fridge and lights over a 12hr period. I'm usually driving during the day so I don't have problems w/ the battery running down. If i'm parked, solar on the roof will keep the battery charged. At night, the battery only needs to run my 20w electric blanket, 20w of lighting, and 60w intermittently for my freezer. I've done in place camping in the summer and the winter and it's been great over the past few years. TBH even the stock battery in my Tacoma was fine, but my 4runner needed a new battery so I moved it over and got an AGM for the truck.

Honestly, the cost of a Dual battery setup isn't expensive at all. You don't need a fancy battery tray if you don't want one. Many people use the stock battery tray and a different tie down. I hear zip ties are cheap. If you run a second battery, you just need to isolate your load to only the second battery and use a DC to DC charger which is like a $100 bucks. A 100w solar panel with a pwm charge controller is like $170. Inverter, if you really need one is like $20 bucks depending on size. Then just use whatever battery disconnects or blocks, or whatever to hook it up. Your starting battery will never run down. If you want to protect your house battery, install an LVD.

 

[Ducky's Dad]

Anybody else notice that OP has been conspicuously absent from this thread since his first post almost a week ago?

 

[zackdocks]

Trying to avoid the whole of mire of what AGM Battery is best and just replying to the OP here, because I don't think anyone really answered the question.

To start, it realistically depends on what your requirements are. Basically you want some power for your accessories and want your engine to start in the morning.

Another consideration here. Do you plan on driving fast? All the folks I know w/ group 31s and run deserts end up getting a crack in their fender well because the weight of a group 31 isn't so good in that spot.

I have a Group 31 AGM in the front, I don't drive that fast over rough terrain, and I have it powering an EdgeStar FP430 Freezer, my Kenwood TM-V71A Radio, my 12v Electric Blanket, Drone Battery charger, a multi-port USB charger that powers 4 BioLite PowerLight Minis, my phone, my tablet, and a bluetooth speaker for dem beats.

My only requirements were a deep cycle that can handle my fridge and lights over a 12hr period. I'm usually driving during the day so I don't have problems w/ the battery running down. If i'm parked, solar on the roof will keep the battery charged. At night, the battery only needs to run my 20w electric blanket, 20w of lighting, and 60w intermittently for my freezer. I've done in place camping in the summer and the winter and it's been great over the past few years. TBH even the stock battery in my Tacoma was fine, but my 4runner needed a new battery so I moved it over and got an AGM for the truck.

Honestly, the cost of a Dual battery setup isn't expensive at all. You don't need a fancy battery tray if you don't want one. Many people use the stock battery tray and a different tie down. I hear zip ties are cheap. If you run a second battery, you just need to isolate your load to only the second battery and use a DC to DC charger which is like a $100 bucks. A 100w solar panel with a pwm charge controller is like $170. Inverter, if you really need one is like $20 bucks depending on size. Then just use whatever battery disconnects or blocks, or whatever to hook it up. Your starting battery will never run down. If you want to protect your house battery, install an LVD.

Are you saying you're running a single group 31, or a dual battery with a group 31 as your house?

 

[67cj5]

Trying to avoid the whole of mire of what AGM Battery is best and just replying to the OP here, because I don't think anyone really answered the question.

To start, it realistically depends on what your requirements are. Basically you want some power for your accessories and want your engine to start in the morning.

Another consideration here. Do you plan on driving fast? All the folks I know w/ group 31s and run deserts end up getting a crack in their fender well because the weight of a group 31 isn't so good in that spot.

I have a Group 31 AGM in the front, I don't drive that fast over rough terrain, and I have it powering an EdgeStar FP430 Freezer, my Kenwood TM-V71A Radio, my 12v Electric Blanket, Drone Battery charger, a multi-port USB charger that powers 4 BioLite PowerLight Minis, my phone, my tablet, and a bluetooth speaker for dem beats.

My only requirements were a deep cycle that can handle my fridge and lights over a 12hr period. I'm usually driving during the day so I don't have problems w/ the battery running down. If i'm parked, solar on the roof will keep the battery charged. At night, the battery only needs to run my 20w electric blanket, 20w of lighting, and 60w intermittently for my freezer. I've done in place camping in the summer and the winter and it's been great over the past few years. TBH even the stock battery in my Tacoma was fine, but my 4runner needed a new battery so I moved it over and got an AGM for the truck.

Honestly, the cost of a Dual battery setup isn't expensive at all. You don't need a fancy battery tray if you don't want one. Many people use the stock battery tray and a different tie down. I hear zip ties are cheap. If you run a second battery, you just need to isolate your load to only the second battery and use a DC to DC charger which is like a $100 bucks. A 100w solar panel with a pwm charge controller is like $170. Inverter, if you really need one is like $20 bucks depending on size. Then just use whatever battery disconnects or blocks, or whatever to hook it up. Your starting battery will never run down. If you want to protect your house battery, install an LVD.

I agree, I have 3 group 31's but at present I am only using one at a time, and it will run my 50Qt fridge for quite a few days before it gets down to 50%, I think the OP should go with the Group 31 setup because he can find a replacement in every town should he need one, No need to go high tech, A 100w panel on the roof will help a lot and if needed he can always hook the battery up to a 15 /30 Ah charger and a Generator or an AC outlet hookup, There is no need to over think this or Overload his brain and truck with Hi Tech toys that are not needed.

 

[67cj5]

Anybody else notice that OP has been conspicuously absent from this thread since his first post almost a week ago?

That's because everyone took over his thread talking about other stuff not related to remotely answering his questions. It's a disgrace.

 

[kalieaire]

Are you saying you're running a single group 31, or a dual battery with a group 31 as your house?

I only use a single Group 31 Odyssey AGM in my truck. No house battery.

YMMV depending on the type of hoodrat ******* you do.

 

[shade]

I only use a single Group 31 Odyssey AGM in my truck. No house battery.

YMMV depending on the type of hoodrat ******* you do.

I've been running a single G31 for years, too. I'm careful about consumption, and I always have a fully independent jump pack along. As long as the power demands can be met, and there's a backup power source for starting, I don't see a problem with using a single battery.

Nothing "disgraceful" going on in this thread, either.

 

[john61ct]

Just keep testing that jumpstarter, don't use for screen gadgets, replace when any weakness shows.

Unless you don't boondock far from civilization of course, but getting stranded 200 miles from the road in the desert isn't just inconvenient. . .

 

[shade]

Just keep testing that jumpstarter, don't use for screen gadgets, replace when any weakness shows.

Unless you don't boondock far from civilization of course, but getting stranded 200 miles from the road in the desert isn't just inconvenient. . .

I completely agree. I use my jump pack regularly, so it's often being recharged. I still charge it at the first of every month, before a long trip, and I carry a 12V charging cable so I can recharge in the field if I've used it. It also has an integral voltmeter, so it's easy to check SOC.

Being a long way from help injects a special thrill into a trip, but there's something to be said for being prepared, too. Participation in some shows isn't worth the price of admission.

 

[kalieaire]

I've been running a single G31 for years, too. I'm careful about consumption, and I always have a fully independent jump pack along. As long as the power demands can be met, and there's a backup power source for starting, I don't see a problem with using a single battery.

Nothing "disgraceful" going on in this thread, either.

just sayin' man. sometimes you need to run that 12v burrito heater into the wee hours of the night.

Just keep testing that jumpstarter, don't use for screen gadgets, replace when any weakness shows.

Unless you don't boondock far from civilization of course, but getting stranded 200 miles from the road in the desert isn't just inconvenient. . .

The advantages of manual transmission. Just park on a slop with rocks leveling the truck. If the battery's dead, jack the truck up, remove the rocks, put it back down, pop it into first or reverse coming down the hill.

Being a long way from help injects a special thrill into a trip, but there's something to be said for being prepared, too. Participation in some shows isn't worth the price of admission.

I have a Noco GB70, but I also have an 800w Sportsman inverter generator w/ a 20Amp Odyssey charger stowed.

 

[john61ct]

The advantages of manual transmission. Just park on a slop with rocks leveling the truck. If the battery's dead, jack the truck up, remove the rocks, put it back down, pop it into first or reverse coming down the hill.

Have owned dozens of standard shift vehicles, so sad / funny (not) that needs explaining nowadays.

 

[kalieaire]

Have owned dozens of standard shift vehicles, so sad / funny (not) that needs explaining nowadays.

Yeah, kids will be all like "you can't do that! you can't drive without the engine running, that's not safe!"

"yeah, neither is this" *immediately walks to camp fire to let out some gas*