Go big or go home:

shortbus4x4

Expedition Leader
It would probably ride better with weight on it, so granite, tile, jacuzzi and whatever other heavy stuff you can get to fit in the space.
 

IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
I wouldnt expect less than an infinity pool, myself ;)

On a serious note as far as fasteners go...
if you are epoxy coating & painting, unless you are using stainless screws,
Id very much suggest stainless brad nails.

Much cheaper, easier assembly, and being stainless you will have no worry of corrosion,
that may effect the epoxy and paint finish down the road.
 

MTVR

Well-known member
We checked to make sure the floor was 100% square, and then applied three coats of West System 105/206 marine-grade epoxy today.
 

grizzlyj

Tea pot tester
In Bovingdon Tank Museum in the UK there is a 40's era truck with basically a concrete pill box on the back as a quick cheap piece of armour, a Bison according to www.
So concrete for interior furnishing has probably been done before, assuming you can stop it bouncing around and out through your walls :)
 

MTVR

Well-known member
Nice, is this the floor?

Yes. It's upside down- that's the bottom of the floor that's visible in that picture.

I'm guessing it is epoxy coated?

Yes. Three coats of West System marine-grade epoxy.

How are you fixing it to chassis?

We will be bolting it to the bed, not the frame- the bed is rigid, and has it's own torsion-free mounting system attaching it to the frame.

Iirc you said all services will be internally mounted so this must make attachment easier.

That concept is evolving- the grey water tank will be outside, under the right front corner of the bed. The generator, heat pump, and propane tank will be mounted on the right side of the platform between the cab and box. The fresh water tank will still be inside.

What dimensions did you go with in the end?

It will be 16 feet long, 8 feet wide, and about 8 feet tall (including solar and roof vent).

The bed is about 5'6" tall empty, the suspension compresses one inch for about every two tons of weight, and we don't want to be any taller than 13'6" overall.
 

Alloy

Well-known member
New (wet/damp) wood is where I've had issues with construction adhesive not bonding.

Some types of screws (especially deck screws) are too hard and will break in time and the broken part of the scew falls out. I'll use Cadmium plated #12-10 screws in some places but mostly I use structural GRK screws.

Going to figure the plumbing/electrical before closing the deck up?
 

MTVR

Well-known member
We're not using decking screws for the framing. The screws we are using seem to bend without breaking- we haven't broken any of them.

The Locktite PL Premium Fast Grab urethane construction adhesive says it even works on wet/frozen lumber. That said, we are watching the temperature and humidity carefully, we have kept the lumber stacked inside to keep it dry, and we keep the project covered with a tarp outside when we're not working on it, to protect it from moisture at night. The bonds seem really strong.

1.5" Kitchen and tub drains will go in concurrent with the insulation, and then we close it up. We have some penetrations of the floor planned, but we need to wait to drill them until the walls are up.
 
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