Gen 1 Tundra Rear Suspension Questions

smokeysevin

Observer
Loads of how much? I tow a fairly heavy Jetski trailer with 2 seadoos and a 87 js550 standup but It has very little tongue weight 3-400lbs. I have also loaded the bed with 4-500lbs of paving stones but it was squatting pretty bad. The springs are just too soft which is why I am adding airbags and hydro bumps.

Sean
 
My wife is hoping we get a small travel trailer someday soon, so just want to make sure I can still tow as a I tweak the rear suspension.

@SportsmanJake The Archive Garage Shackle Flip looks like something I could possibly install, although drilling into my frame is probably not in the cards for me.....
@smokeysevin your Cantilever stuff looks like a project beyond my skill set! :)

I am trying to claw some free time in so I can get that bottom overload spring back in there and see what that does, in terms of stopping my sag.
As of now my next step is find a 2.5" rear shock or a 2" with a reservoir and make sure I get some good advice as to its performance link to the my Kings up front.... Want the front and rear to work together as much as possible.
 

smokeysevin

Observer
I ran a setup similar to this before I swapped and it worked reasonably well. With better shocks it would have been fine but I really wanted to have a good motion ratio and rising rate so I went cantilever.

Since you are planning to tow more, running a mini pack (add a leaf style) or going with a stiffer rate is probably a good idea. Go with a 2.5" shock at a minimum, all the spring rate in the world can only help so much when you are loaded.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...shocks-in-stock-location.304467/#post-7774524

Sean
 

DaveInDenver

Luddite
I ran a setup similar to this before I swapped and it worked reasonably well. With better shocks it would have been fine but I really wanted to have a good motion ratio and rising rate so I went cantilever.
Sean, are you talking about this?

20131011_163112.jpg

@High Country should realize getting this to work isn't something you take lightly and may take a fair bit of tinkering and tuning to get right. The reason guys do this is to get more travel without binding the shocks. It's not going to be the most effective way to damp the springs.
 

smokeysevin

Observer
Yes. This allows you to make the shocks more vertical and can help. At the end of the day with leaf springs and non cantilever, unless you set your shocks purely paralell to the direction of travel you will have a falling motion ratio as far as the shocks are concerned. The setup above can help but there are still limitations with how big of a shock the truck can fit. The raptor uses lower shock mounts that are under the axle and upper shock mounts that are a little above the frame and even then the shocks are angled.

Sean
 
@smokeysevin Do any of the FOA shocks comes in a size that work for what I am trying to do?
Short of going custom, the only ones I am seeing that are either 2.0 or come with a reservoir are as follows:
Fox 2.0s
Toytec BOSS (Seems like a good price point?)
BILSTEIN B8 5160 - 25-243734
ICON has two 2.5 options, one that is adjustable ($$$$) and one that is not.
OME Rear 60091 shocks??
Rancho has some, but have not seen a positive review....
Any others?


Challenge is finding a good shock, then ensuring its compatible with the Kings on the front...
 
Last edited:

Kpack

Adventurer
I found some information on the Icon 2.5" rears with CDCV adjustable valves (which I have). The guy I talked to didn't have the exact measurements for this, but came up with these numbers based on the dimensions of the parts. So these may or may not be fully accurate. This was from Icon themselves, but they seemed to be reluctant to give exact numbers. So that being said, here's what I have:

Icon 2.5" CDCV rear (57715CP)

Extended length: about 24"

Compressed length: about 14.75"

Travel length: about 9.25"

Again, not sure how accurate these are. When I pull mine off for revalving I can try to measure then.
 

Kpack

Adventurer
@Kpack That info should be on every manufacturer's website. Thanks!
Why are you revalving?
I'm leaning heavily toward revalving front an rear to progressive. My fronts are due for a rebuild, the rears are new. But before I do I will talk to one of Icon's rebuilders about whether or not revalving the rears is necessary, given that mine are adjustable (though they are still digressive). I'll let you know what they say.
 

smokeysevin

Observer
If you are going custom mounts a 10" travel would probably be a good option but I couldn't say outside of my setup. Basically you want to have your shock travel match your wheel travel as close as possible without limiting travel in a direct acting setup (like leaf springs)

Sean
 

Blender

Adventurer
I found some information on the Icon 2.5" rears with CDCV adjustable valves (which I have). The guy I talked to didn't have the exact measurements for this, but came up with these numbers based on the dimensions of the parts. So these may or may not be fully accurate. This was from Icon themselves, but they seemed to be reluctant to give exact numbers. So that being said, here's what I have:

Icon 2.5" CDCV rear (57715CP)

Extended length: about 24"

Compressed length: about 14.75"

Travel length: about 9.25"

Again, not sure how accurate these are. When I pull mine off for revalving I can try to measure then.
the 9.25" travel jives with my chicken scratch notes from a few years ago. looking at icon's website they now have three different 2.5" piggyback rear shocks stating compatibility with 0-1.5", 0-2" or 0-3" of lift. I had the CDC adjusters added after original purchase, but I think I have the straight up 57715 part number that's sold individually.
 

Flyer69

Observer
Thanks, I will look into something like that. At the time I purchased it was recommended to me that the Bilsteins and the Add A Leaf was the way to go. So, that is why I went that route initially. That combo seemed to do better paired with the SAWs on the 01 Access Cab, so it seemed like a no brainer at the time. Lessons learned... :)
High Country, I went the same route as you originally, Deaver add-a-leaf kit and Bilstein 5100s. The old tired leaf packs sagged over time (15 years...), so I added some temporary 1.25" blocks to level the rig. Not a very good ride at all.
Last month I ordered up the 10-leaf overland spring pack from Archive Garage (Deavers), along with Archive's U-bolt flip kit. I think the total was around $1200. I honestly can't recommend this upgrade strongly enough! Big payload increase and a plush ride unloaded as well. Body roll is minimized, even with my 150# JB RTT on top. I daresay she rides better now than when she was brand new. The lift was a perfect match for my front, about 2.5" total over stock. You can check out the install on my build page. Hope that helps!
 
Top