Anyone running all the time/daily at highway speeds more than even +20mm is a cheap bastard, poser, and/or nonsensical fool who completely ignores "form follows function" idea of a Land Rover. Either do the simple mods that allow running the 32" 275/65-18 with ZERO lift, or just quit posting your crap for others to blindly follow.
The suspension is not designed/engineered to run all the time "lifted". Go ahead if you like to waste money wearing stuff out prematurely while also reducing the vehicle handling safety.
Basic mods to allow the 32":
1-rear fender liner forward buldges need to be flattened.
2-front frame horn must be removed/reworked.
3-a few front lines relocated higher on frame away from where tire can scrub them (these are near/above the frame horn area)
4-ideally tuck the washer bottle up/forward but not absolutely necessary)
See, is that really so hard? No, it's not but it IS better. The "lift" rods are also a joke simply to give someone your money for no true additional function as they do not in fact increase the maximum height available to the vehicle in any circumstance. They do however cause problems when there is a suspension issue resulting in a fault which drops your vehicle requiring you to have the GAP IIDtool to fix.
When the lr3/4 range rovers ground, the system senses this and raises higher than is available on-demand. You can actually induce this feature simply by raising to off road height, place a block under the frame as if it were a stump, lower the air which causes the emergency height. This is usable up through sensible speeds for that height, maybe 20 ish, but definitely it will auto-drop to off road height before 30. This method costs 0. 0 because you should have a safety block of some sort with you for trail spare tire swapping if necessary anyway. The best blocking would have multiple uses such as a tire chock, jack base, under wheel spacer for camping vehicle leveling, etc.
32" fits perfectly fine in full turning and in full suspension articulations as per my testing and general use but with the above basic modifications. This also eliminates the inappropriate realignments and narrowing of the track by pulling the wheels in when lifted. Running higher full time also results in much more use of the air compressor while also softening the ride due to longer air column. While cornering the DTC will want to kick in more often. Personally, I like to take my corners as fast as I wish without the DTC trying to save me as it detects an incorrect sway force. There are simply too many reasons why it's just a bad idea to run an lr3/4/rrs strut "lifted" all the time.
