Gap IID Tool: First go.

SteveMfr

Supporting Sponsor
#16
Good response. I work in IT so I'm familiar with firmware destroying things. Sounds like if I do my research I should be OK. Really just wondering if there's any benefit, etc to updating.

FYI, I'm a big fan of the tool even at its current price point. Make the investment once and roll it through the Land Rovers I own now and in the future with a small fee. I imagine I'll have 1 or 2 Rovers until I die, which is hopefully, many, many years from now.
The benefits generally are there - or LR wouldn't have bothered. The question is: with your particular use of the car will you see the improvement? Possibly not on many systems including the engine. There was a TCM update that improved shifting noticeably but I'm don't think it's applicable to your transmission. Updates to Bluetooth modules are often very noticeable - here again I'm not sure about the 2010's off-hand. Ask Patrick @support. He'll be able to provide you with the info.

I do hope we'll be able to provide you with diagnostics to the 'end'... Technology is advancing so rapidly, tho. Maybe we'll be able to provide you with a better solution in a couple of years - even if you're still driving the 2010 then. :)


Eloist: the i930 is a great little bit of kit at the price it goes for. If it would have been around 10-12 years ago, GAP Diagnostic might well never have come to be. But it wasn't, and today it's functionality is rather primitive. You can't beat the price, tho. I can't see the reason for buying a Hawkeye/Lynx/ABwhatever tool. The i930 has nearly all the functionality those things have at less than one third the price. If your going to drop several hundred $, it does not make sense not spend the little bit extra and purchase an IIDTool (IMO - but I'm not impartial :cool:).
 
#17
the peace of mind this tool provides is top notch. I bought mine during a Lucky8 christmas sale in 2015. The common sentiment "it pays for itself" couldn't be more true.

I had one height sensor go bad over a year ago. Got a quote for almost $800 to replace two sensors and recalibrate the EAS. I bought 4 new OEM sensors on eBay for $125 and did the recalibration myself. ride height adjustments, quick diagnosis, and quality of the manual makes it a must-have IMO.


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#18
Eloist: the i930 is a great little bit of kit at the price it goes for. If it would have been around 10-12 years ago, GAP Diagnostic might well never have come to be. But it wasn't, and today it's functionality is rather primitive. You can't beat the price, tho. I can't see the reason for buying a Hawkeye/Lynx/ABwhatever tool. The i930 has nearly all the functionality those things have at less than one third the price. If your going to drop several hundred $, it does not make sense not spend the little bit extra and purchase an IIDTool (IMO - but I'm not impartial :cool:).
Totally. Like I said, the i930 was included with the truck when I purchased it.
 
#20
Just used mine for real last yesterday (finally got it setup).

Oh for those looking to buy the tool, set it up, etc with your laptop BEFORE you need it. Between reading instructions and running back and forth to the car, took about 30 minutes. If I knew what I was doing, I'm sure it would've been a lot less than that.

I had speed dependent wiper mode set to on. This is massively annoying. So I turned that off. Also turned on the brake pad sensors. That was off?? Whatever.

Got a new key on the way, will use this to program it. Between that and turning off the speed wipers, I'd say that saved me ~$250 (They would charge about $125 for each thing, from my guess). So its already half way to paying for itself.

Soon I'm going to replace the Tie Rods. After that, I'll need an alignment. This has the ability to go into "rigid mode" for alignment. So that is handy.

Oh and I'll be towing soon. I noticed all my trailer hitch stuff is turned off...even though I've got factory wiring!!?? Whatever. Will turn that on when its time.

So just being able to fix my own junk and configure it as needed is worth it. The one thing I do need to look into is when I get a Voltage high or voltage low code, if that means I've got bad wiring or a bad sensor. I'll be looking into that soon. But that is helpful in diagnostics. My driver seat heater is dead (I need this) and I get a voltage low code. So I'll be able to further diagnose the issue.
 
#21
I got the GAP bluetooth tool this week. I'm very happy with it. Just the piece of mind of knowing what's going on inside the truck's web of systems is worth it.
I performed a couple of the ECU updates included with the tool. I like the updated '3 flash turn signals' and the clock showing on the instrument display.
Also, right away I noticed the truck doesn't have that lag present between the pedal and engine when starting off a stop sign. I'll probably spring for the 'Fast Lane' ECU update to the transmission too.
It was great to scan the truck for faults and be rewarded with no big problems to chase down. The ability to play around with the suspension height is fantastic.
Anyways - I'm a happy customer. I recommend the blue tooth version to anyone considering a purchase. It was easy to navigate the tool using my iphone.
 
#22
Ordered mine during the Lucky 8 sale over Thanksgiving. Looking forward to getting back and plugging it in to the LR4. Really excited to dump the Rhino lift rods and control my lift with the IID tool.
rcharrette - can you give me a little more info about your statement? I just ordered 18" wheels and have several more mods in mind. A few of my optional mods were lift rods in addition to the IID tool. Is it your opinion that having the IID tool renders the lift rods meaningless? What is it about the lift rods you dislike? Thanks!
 
#23
rcharrette - can you give me a little more info about your statement? I just ordered 18" wheels and have several more mods in mind. A few of my optional mods were lift rods in addition to the IID tool. Is it your opinion that having the IID tool renders the lift rods meaningless? What is it about the lift rods you dislike? Thanks!
Yes, If you the get IID tool you do not need lift rods. Of course I'm no expert but this is my understanding and I've had both. You can simply set the height you want with the IID Tool and save it as a profile. You then have the option to leave it in that profile or bring it back down to factory height just by pushing a few buttons on your smart device.
I still run stock tires so I have no need to run my truck lifted full-time. When I had the rods I'd climb under the truck and install the rods to go wheeling then at the end remove them and put the stock ones back. In addition to being a bit of a messy job I also once broke one of the plastic arms on the ride height sensor doing this.
 
#24
Just programmed my new keys using the GAP tool. Dealer wanted either $75 or $125 (can't remember) PER KEY for programming (I have two new keys). Took me less time to find a youtube video, sit there in anxiety, then re-read the instructions, then perform the reprogram, than it would've taken me to drive to the dealer. Already this tool has saved me $300-350 dollars. So I suspect by the end of the year, it will have paid for itself.

I haven't looked into it, but is there a way to reprogram "off road" height? From my experience, I need about another half inch of lift when off road. If I can program it in and have a bit more lift when off road, that would make life a lot better. Also I'd totally reprogram access height to drop to the bumpstops. All the way down...
 
#25
Yes, If you the get IID tool you do not need lift rods. Of course I'm no expert but this is my understanding and I've had both. You can simply set the height you want with the IID Tool and save it as a profile. You then have the option to leave it in that profile or bring it back down to factory height just by pushing a few buttons on your smart device.
I still run stock tires so I have no need to run my truck lifted full-time. When I had the rods I'd climb under the truck and install the rods to go wheeling then at the end remove them and put the stock ones back. In addition to being a bit of a messy job I also once broke one of the plastic arms on the ride height sensor doing this.
Randy thanks for confirming what I thought about the lift rods and saving me from that experience. I know that the factory settings for raising and lowering the suspension from stock is 2" in either direction from "normal". How high are you able to raise your LR4 from normal with the IID tool? I know some people like to use the IID tool for turning on daylight running lights with the LEDs and some other cosmetic features. What are your favorite ways of utilizing the IID?
 
#26
Yes, If you the get IID tool you do not need lift rods. Of course I'm no expert but this is my understanding and I've had both. You can simply set the height you want with the IID Tool and save it as a profile. You then have the option to leave it in that profile or bring it back down to factory height just by pushing a few buttons on your smart device.
I still run stock tires so I have no need to run my truck lifted full-time. When I had the rods I'd climb under the truck and install the rods to go wheeling then at the end remove them and put the stock ones back. In addition to being a bit of a messy job I also once broke one of the plastic arms on the ride height sensor doing this.
Randy thanks for confirming what I thought about the lift rods and saving me from that experience. I know that the factory settings for raising and lowering the suspension from stock is 2" in either direction from "normal". How high are you able to raise your LR4 from normal with the IID tool? I know some people like to use the IID tool for turning on daylight running lights with the LEDs and some other cosmetic features. What are your favorite ways of utilizing the IID?
I’ve honestly only plugged it in 3 times so far and was scared the whole time that I’d screw something up!! Starting to get past that now :)
I’m really not sure what the lifted height is now? I asked Eric at lucky8 what he recommended I set it at and he said 40mm for all sides and that’s what I did. It looks plenty high at that for my needs.
I’ve reset the service light and next I plan to try and find out how to shut off the rear collision sensors because I use a rear bike rack.
On our way to Sedona right now for some MTB and 4x4 fun! We had our old LR3 on the Sedona trails a bunch. First time taking our LR4 to play!



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TMR

New member
#28
Was wondering if someone could provide some guidance. Like many of you, I have read the manual and am very careful about how I use the tool. When I use the ECU Info option, it shows that updates are available for some of the computers. Given this, when I go to the ECU flash portion, none of those modules with updates available are listed. So the question is, how does one go about reflashing to a newer update? Is it necessary? Thanks for all the help.
 
#29
Was wondering if someone could provide some guidance. Like many of you, I have read the manual and am very careful about how I use the tool. When I use the ECU Info option, it shows that updates are available for some of the computers. Given this, when I go to the ECU flash portion, none of those modules with updates available are listed. So the question is, how does one go about reflashing to a newer update? Is it necessary? Thanks for all the help.
You copy the update information and email it to gap. They charge a fee for every module to be updated. This is part of their fast lane service. Again, its a fee for every individual module to be updated.
 
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