Fusing a winch

98 SNAKE EATER

Adventurer
I'd love to see more detailed info / pictures on the rear winch and mount, very very cool setup.



With the spare removed, there's plenty of room behind the bumper for a winch, but rather than mounting it directly behind the bumper, I chose to mount it closer to the axle so there's less overhanging weight :cool:

Went with 1/2" steel plate as a base and welded on a set of brackets...

huskywinchsteelplatesupply2.jpg

huzkyqinchinstalled1.JPG

huzkyqinchinstalled7.JPG


Mounted my Superwinch Husky 10 worm drive winch and used the existing holes in the frame to bolt it in place (no drilling)

huzkyqinchinstalled27.jpg

huzkyqinchinstalled20.JPG


Apart from the hook and fairlead sticking out of the x-member, it's completely hidden from sight :ylsmoke:

huzkyqinchinstalled25.JPG

huzkyqinchinstalled23.JPG



For more info, check out my install thread on the mud forums

http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rear-winch-install.579938/
 

Lucky j

Explorer
Nice set-up!

But I'm curious, do you have anyway of knowing were your line is going when rolling in?
 

Stumpalump

Expedition Leader
I run my winches straight to the battery. Less components and connections will give the maximum voltage and amps. That gives the hardest pull and coolest running winch motor. Running the ground back to the batt or at least and extra ground from the frame to the battery is also good. These things pull hundreds of Amps. Keep the wiring simple and give extra care to chafe points on the positive lead. Fuses and switches? Do you have them on the positive lead on your starter? No and you don't need one on your winch either.
 

98 SNAKE EATER

Adventurer
Nice set-up!

But I'm curious, do you have anyway of knowing were your line is going when rolling in?

When reeling in a loose cable, it's easy to tell by feel where the line is going on the drum and when it's starting a new layer.

Even with the smaller fairlead on the bumper, the distance between the winch itself is about ~20 inches, so it still has plenty of side to side play in the cable for proper layering.

It's no different than the setup on my front winch which is also hidden from view.

However, on a heavy pull, I'd just take a peek underneath every now and then to make sure it's not bunching up.
 

98 SNAKE EATER

Adventurer
I run my winches straight to the battery. Less components and connections will give the maximum voltage and amps. That gives the hardest pull and coolest running winch motor. Running the ground back to the batt or at least and extra ground from the frame to the battery is also good. These things pull hundreds of Amps. Keep the wiring simple and give extra care to chafe points on the positive lead. Fuses and switches? Do you have them on the positive lead on your starter? No and you don't need one on your winch either.


While I agree the more juice these winches see, the better, there are also a number of reasons why I wouldn't want my winch connected to the battery constantly :eek:

An iced over solenoid freezing up as you winch in, a front end crash shorting out the power leads to the frame causing a fire, some punk kid using a paper clip on the remote plug to trigger the winch, etc., etc. :yikes:

We nearly lost a few of our fleet tow trucks for these very reasons, so now they all either have an HD solenoid or an Anderson connector w/quick latch
 

rk_az

Adventurer
...a bumper mounted key switch...

What are those switches rated for? I have one that looks exactly like those, and it says it is only rated for 100 amps continuous. I am a bit worried it will fry if I ever have to do a long winch under heavy load.
 

98 SNAKE EATER

Adventurer
What are those switches rated for? I have one that looks exactly like those, and it says it is only rated for 100 amps continuous. I am a bit worried it will fry if I ever have to do a long winch under heavy load.


I dunno, probably 40 or 50 amps tops :confused:

Thing is, I'm NOT using them as a main cut-off (that's what the large solenoid is for)

If you're using one as a cut-off for your main power lead, you should ditch it cause it will most likely fail during a hard pull :smilies27

My key switches are used inline with the small power lead for the remote plug trigger wires, so there's barely any current going through it (maybe an amp or two) :cool:

So even when I have my main power solenoid turned on, the hand remote and/or interior control switches won't be able to send a signal to the solenoid pack unless the keys are inserted :)

That way, I don't have to worry about anyone flipping switches inside or some punk kid triggering the winch from the remote plug with a paperclip :yikes:

Yes, it's a little redundant, but I've seen winches do some crazy ******** in my time and I'd just rather play it safe :eek:

The key switches also work great when reeling in the cable cause you can hold tension and stop it right where it ends ;)
 
What are those switches rated for? I have one that looks exactly like those, and it says it is only rated for 100 amps continuous. I am a bit worried it will fry if I ever have to do a long winch under heavy load.

Blue Sea m6006 is what I used on mine, $25 on Amazon. It's rated for 1500A for 10 sec, 775A for 1 min, 500A for up to 5 min, and 300A continuous. Since the Max Amps my winch will pull is 480A and that's not likely to happen often or even for 5 continuous minutes at a time (without some kind of pause) it should be fine. You could even get a Blue Sea HD switch which will handle way more Amperage but those are like a hundred bux
 

rk_az

Adventurer
Yeah, I've seen those Blue Sea switches. They would certainly work. I actually have a really nice Cole Hersee switch rated at 300A continuous, but I am actually looking for something a bit less bulky that will fit where I have the cheap switch located right now (see pic below). About the only place to put a bulky switch is under the hood, but having to pop the hood to get to it in a hurry sort of defeats the purpose.

switch_location.jpg
 

98 SNAKE EATER

Adventurer
Yeah, I've seen those Blue Sea switches. They would certainly work. I actually have a really nice Cole Hersee switch rated at 300A continuous, but I am actually looking for something a bit less bulky that will fit where I have the cheap switch located right now (see pic below). About the only place to put a bulky switch is under the hood, but having to pop the hood to get to it in a hurry sort of defeats the purpose.

switch_location.jpg



Don't use that dinky switch as a cut-off for the main power.

They're not meant to handle the kind of load your winch is capable of drawing under a hard pull :eek:

The main difference between the cheap key switches and the larger heavy duty marine type switched is the way they make contact.

The key type switches basically push down on a thin copper tab that makes contact with a base (the turn of the key is just to lock the tab in place)

This type of connection is weak and simply can't sustain large continuous current draws without overheating.

Case in point, I had one on my Golf Cart as a main shut off using a cheap HF ATV winch and I ended up smoking the key switch :rolleyes:

monstercartcamo2.jpg


Not sure what the winch was actually drawing current wise, but all it had in the solenoid box was a pair of 40amp relays lol


The Blue Sea switches, on the other hand, have large rotating contact plates that slide into place as you turn the knob, creating a much better connection that can actually handle heavy loads :cool:

If space really is an issue, go with a large solenoid, mount it under the hood and either run a switch to your interior or use the same key switch on your bumper to activate it :)

It takes less than an amp to activate it, so it will be more than adequate :ylsmoke:
 

Forum statistics

Threads
185,914
Messages
2,879,557
Members
225,497
Latest member
WonaWarrior
Top