Front wheel storage during transport

#1
I've got ancient Yakima roof bars on the old expo Jeep with standard fork trap trays. This means, of course, that you remove the front wheel to mount the bikes. I had a full basket rack on the last truck and I would just throw the loose front wheel in it and bungee it down, but now without the basket I'm having to put the wheel inside the truck. That takes a lot of room and the tire is often muddy if I'm riding mountain. I've seen the front wheel mounts that look like an upside down fork, but I don't want that sticking up all the time when I'm NOT hauling the bike(s), plus 2/3 of my bikes are through axle hubs which wont fit those.

Anyone have good tips or tricks for outside transport of a loose front wheel? I've thought about Quickfist clamps or something similar, or maybe bungee-ing the wheel to the bike itself. just thought I'd see if anyone else had something cooler/better.
 
#3
Well, that's what I was saying above. Those don't work with thru-axle hubs, only 9mm QR types. That's great for my road bike, but doesn't work for the dual sus or the camping bike.
 
#4
Ah... I didn't read closely enough.

I ride old skool on road. commuter, and mountain, so I put the taken-off wheel in the back seat or the bed. I've thought for years I need to get some wheel bags but I've never done it.

They make adapters for thru-axles, don't they? 'Course, all that would do is let you use a wheel mount you don't want to use anyway!
 

DaveInDenver

Expedition Leader
#5
The current wheel forks are made to fit through axles and fold down, solving both issues that plague them. I still have my old 1990s vintage Yakima wheel forks and watching a wheel bouncing in your rear view makes you question how secure they are up there.

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#6
Hmm. Looks like I'd have to combine the last 2 posts - the Yakima Wheelhouse mount is wide enough for the newer hubs, but you have to buy a thru axle adapter skewer to mount a through axle wheel. That's puts me at $130-$140 to carry 2 wheels. Which is more than I want to spend, but does give me a sturdy solution. I'll have to think about it and see if any DIY solution would be as good.

Thanks guys!
 
#8
My experience has been that they are much less stable, they are a little taller, plus it's harder to lift the bike up to the top of the Jeep with the extra weight/awkwardness. Not to mention a good one is $300-$500 and I already HAVE the fork rack on the Jeep.
 

wild1

Adventurer
#9
My experience has been that they are much less stable, they are a little taller, plus it's harder to lift the bike up to the top of the Jeep with the extra weight/awkwardness. Not to mention a good one is $300-$500 and I already HAVE the fork rack on the Jeep.
If your not super fussy about your bike I just cam strap them to the frame, as long as the tire is the part in contact doesn't seem to hurt anything and it's cheap and solid.
 
#10
I had a similar problem, multiple wheels with different hub spacing (142, 148 Boost). I found that black or galv 1/4" pipe has an outer diameter just a hair narrower than a 15mm skewer. Get a matching floor flange, bolt it to a 1x4 which you bolt to your crossbars, and thread the 1/4" pipe sticking straight up. Get one 12" long and you can stack 2 thru axle wheels with a rubber washer separating them. You can unthread the pipe when not needed to you don't have it sticking up in the air. Wrap it with electrical tape or heat shrink to protect the inside of your hub. I did it on my truck, I'll try to take a pic when it stops raining.
 
#12
@Mfitz - Brilliant as long you're not rocking the old 9mm QR (I still do on one bike). Or you're a DH guy with 20mm. But still a very clever solution.
I tried a really thin threaded rod for 9mm QR but it broke- luckily I had a cable lock on it so I didn't lose the wheel. I haven't figured out a better solution for 9mm. For 20 mm you could try to size up the vertical pipe or just wrap thick layers of electrical tape to take up the extra width. The 15mm ta solution does seem to be working well so far.