Frogprince M416 Expedition Build

[Frogprince]

Afternoon,

I jut picked this up from a fellow member on here. This trailer has been the feature of a few different build threads on the Portal. Time for another one with the modification that i want to do to it.

Tomorrow I will start working on the platform for the ten and repairing of some trail damage. Can't wait to get this done and out on the trails.

Photo is how she sits in the driveway currently. More to come tomorrow.

 

[Frogprince]

Here is the weekend update.

I found a local fabricator/welder who helped design and build the tent platform for the tent. He hasn't done much of these yet but he did a really great job in the design and attention to detail.

The uprights are 1.25 round tubing and the inner sliding portion is 1" tubing. He said he got these at the off road store here locally and they are very dense and strong steel. I had to drill some vent holes into the bottoms and it was a challenge for the drill bit.

The next phase will be the final repair of the lid and painting the trailer and rack system. Then onto the lift mechanism and hopefully she will be out on the road.

 

[GI_Jeepin"]

What do you plan to use for the lifting mechanism? I also have an M416 the lifting platform for the RTT has my attention.

 

[Frogprince]

I have two options that I have been considering. They range greatly in price and functionality so there is a internal debate on which is better.

Option 1 is to use gas struts on all four corners. I figure if I did 100 lbs lifting capacity that would give me 400 lbs of lifting force. I am not sure if that is overkill due to the tent weighing in at about 200 lbs and the frame is probably only 150 lbs. The idea is to get it slightly less or more so it is easy to raise and lower. Cost would be approximately $120

Option 2 is to use electric linear actuators on at least two corners. These come in a several lengths but average lifting capacity is 250 lbs. I would have to add a battery system, switches and relays to make the system function. It would lift with a flip of a switch and lift. Cost will be approximately $250 (not including battery, charging and etc)

The question that I keep arguing with myself on is simplicity. My wife would like to have the electrical system for some LED lighting in the tent and etc. So I will have to add a battery, charger and etc to the trailer in the long run. Will the actuators be reliable in the long run. Will they provide a smoother lifting mechanism.

I need to get out and get everything on the rack and figure out how high I want it to be when lifted in the final position. Right now the base is 10" off of the lid. I easily can go 30" higher than where it sits now. The question I need to know is how high for the annex to be properly attached. I was figuring at most I need a about 16-18 inches of movement in the mechanism

 

[GI_Jeepin"]

If you went with the gas struts would you install some sort of lock out? I would imagine that it would be a major PITA to lower it by yourself. There is another thread on here where someone made his platform lift with actuators. Ill do some checking but he installed one in each corner.

 

[Frogprince]

The thread you mentioned about the actuators he did put them in each corner. That was the basis of my design. In theory (hate saying it) one could get away with two put in on opposing corners. If they lift at the same rate they should prevent binding on the mechanism. You are right using the gas struts it would be a big pain to lower by yourself. Normally I go camping with family or others so I should always have help.

Maybe a hybrid design where you use 2 actuators in opposing corners and then use gas struts in the other two to provide some lifting assistance. Might have to look into this.

The mention of lockout is something that I was planning on doing in either case. I don't want to trust the mechanism to hold all the weight plus me.

 

[Trailpsycho]

In some builds, I have seen bracketry (think bushing) mounted to the rack that allows a pivot as it connects to the up rights, this should decrease binding on raising or lowering of the rack/tent/gear. I have been planning a lid/rack for my M416 for some time and continue to gleen info from many of these builds. I had seen this minor detail on several racks and it only more recently occurred to me why. Something to consider...

Interested to see how you decide to get your lift on...

Cheers!

 

[Frogprince]

UPDATE:

I decided on a simple but effective way of lifting the tent platform. it needs to be raised 15 inches for the annex to work as designed and not have the zippers on the ground. What I have decided to do is weld on another angle bracket to support a jack or wood block. Using a bottle jack I can raise the platform up 10 inches. From there I have to support the tent platform with some cargo bars and remove the jack. To gain the remaining height I have some wood blocks cut to 10" that the jack can sit on and then raise another 5 inches. Then when all is said and done I have pins that hold the legs in place and the tent is raised.

The above is just a temporary solution to the problem since I haven't decided on how I want to lift it. I am still leaning towards the electric lift but currently lack time to complete the electrical on the trailer. Also my wife wants to go camping and I don't want the annex to be flooded like last year.

I also as installed new tail lights, and marker lights on the trailer. Finally it is visible and has a modern junction box installed with a 7 pin to accommodate the electrical regards in the future.

I will get some pictures tonight of the lift and post them.