Found a Gen 1 Monty...what am I getting into...:)

[nonuniform]

So, I have a thing for boxy practical trucks that aren't Land Rovers. Sold my square body Suburban 3/4 ton to a friend, and promptly found a Gen 1 Montero. It's all there with 200k, runs, pretty basic. I just plan to drive it on dirt roads to get to places I want to photograph. Looking around it seems like OEM parts are available. I love that it seems like a simple truck to work on.

I'm looking at people's build threads, any Gen 1's in the US out there still?

 

[plh]

I'm looking at people's build threads, any Gen 1's in the US out there still?

There are, I've got 1. Never were a lot here.

 

[nonuniform]

There are, I've got 1. Never were a lot here.

Yeah, I've never seen many. I don't think this one comes with the rear LSD, was looking at ARB lockers, but they don't seem to have anything for the 1990 Gen 1. While I've driven a lot of open-diff Jeeps all over the place, there are a few places I've gotten stuck that I'd prefer not to in the next truck.

 

[plh]

ARB lockers, but they don't seem to have anything for the 1990 Gen 1.

ARB number is RD212 (rear) RD110 (front - 5 speed)

 

[chadzeilenga]

Welcome nonuniform, I also have a GEN1 LWB. Been enjoying it for a year now. Be sure to catch up on any past-due maintenance and check out www.mitsubishilinks.com for FSM.

My advice from experience is to make sure cooling system is in good working order and fan has a good working OEM clutch on it. The 3.0L doesn’t tolerate overheating well.
Also, be sure to update to latest crank bolt.




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[Oso]

Youre getting into a 30 year old truck with 200k on it. These are great trucks. I’ve owned two and have a couple more on the way. Wrenching on them is simple and made easier with the factory service manual. Be sure to get it from the link in the earlier post,

Expect to do lots of deferred maintenance.crank bolt and cooling system is a great start and while you’re in there do the timing belt and water pump. Have the radiator rodded (cleaned) at a shop while it’s out. Change all your fluids and clean all the wiring connections. Replace your ground cables. Service the trans - there’s a great write up in 4x4wire about changing the fluid. It might be here too. Change your fuel filter and check the fuel pressure. The fuel pump is in the tank and easily replaced. Rubber bushings will likely be dead or dying. I went with OEM rubber and have not regretted it. It’s also worth opening the ecu to look for corrosion. Last but not least - valve stem seals. They tend to go between 120-150k miles.

Use decent parts and your new ride will likely get you another 200k.

Good luck and welcome to the best automotive community out there. The mitsu brotherhood is strong.

 

[nonuniform]

Thanks for the info everyone! Appreciate the links for maintenance and ARB units. I'm definitely going to start with the deferred maintenance, and I appreciate the heads up on the valve stem seals. I like the older trucks for simplicity sake. From what I understand, the timing belt has been done, but I'll have to look for the telltale blue cloud etc. I've heard a leakdown test will also reveal bad seals. Found a thread on 4x4wire that details the Gen 1 procedure. Will post back if I end up buying it (scheduling to meet with the owner, busy guy I guess).

 

[chadzeilenga]

The “rope method” is a great way I learned through these forums to replace valve seals. Basically thread a rope through spark plug hole with piston at BTDC and rotate up to TDC a few times to hold valve in position while you change seal. I think writeup by Jay Ayala is on here somewhere.


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[nonuniform]

The “rope method” is a great way I learned through these forums to replace valve seals. Basically thread a rope through spark plug hole with piston at BTDC and rotate up to TDC a few times to hold valve in position while you change seal. I think writeup by Jay Ayala is on here somewhere.


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Thanks! Yeah, I found a detailed description of the rope method, and the tools that are needed. Sounds tedious, but not hard. I've done a fair amount of engine work, from complete rebuilds to the heads/head gaskets on a friends' Suburban 350 last year.

The only things I've never taken apart are automatic transmissions and differentials. Have no idea what I'm doing with a differential, and I have no interest in knowing anything about a slushbox! I've done a few manual transmissions.

 

[chadzeilenga]

Same here, it’s not too hard but I had motor out when I did it.


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['round n' back again]

gen 1 , the real montero/pajero. all others are just hopin'.
skinny, tidy, precise, and not clumsy.
ugly interiors, not like the still-sexy gen 2 interiors.
tough as mother love,
lot, lot, of deffed maintenance guaranteed.
it will take a year to Catch up .
noisy, windy, sunroof probably dont work.
but.....
unless I had a new toyota, which I wont, I would have no other SUV of any kind to take me where I feel a need to go.
u will have to address EVERY component on a gen 1 .
figure 1000.00 to get it into shape.
alternator, fuel pump, and ignition have been troublesome for me and have straded me on multiple occasions. fuel pressure regulator stepper motor....
the list is parhetuc.
but
u could be driving a rover,
or a toyota u are embarrased to tell people how much u paid for it.
.

 

[RyanY]

Thanks for the info everyone! Appreciate the links for maintenance and ARB units. I'm definitely going to start with the deferred maintenance, and I appreciate the heads up on the valve stem seals. I like the older trucks for simplicity sake. From what I understand, the timing belt has been done, but I'll have to look for the telltale blue cloud etc. I've heard a leakdown test will also reveal bad seals. Found a thread on 4x4wire that details the Gen 1 procedure. Will post back if I end up buying it (scheduling to meet with the owner, busy guy I guess).

A leakdown test will not indicate worn valve stem seals, but it's pretty simple to see if they have an issue: accelerating after idling for a minute will produce blue smoke out the tailpipe. Really worn seals will smoke nearly all the time. If you don't have blue smoke then it's not something you need to worry about at this point.

 

['round n' back again]

just budget for head work.
buy a scrap motor pull heads. refurbish.
be sure the head builder understands and has experience on Japanese heads.

do the whole top end in a weekend.
when u have all the parts together.
it's an insane job, but done properly will ladt u a very long time

 

[CaseyR]

Welcome nonuniform, I also have a GEN1 LWB. Been enjoying it for a year now. Be sure to catch up on any past-due maintenance and check out www.mitsubishilinks.com for FSM.

My advice from experience is to make sure cooling system is in good working order and fan has a good working OEM clutch on it. The 3.0L doesn’t tolerate overheating well.
Also, be sure to update to latest crank bolt.




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Chad -- do you happen to have the part number and/or link for the crank bolt you referenced here? Been browsing but unable to locate. Thank you.

 

[RyanY]

Go to any of the Mitsubishi parts sites and look up the crank bolt - it will be the updated part.