Ford 8.8 rear axle repair/upgrades

Mwilliamshs

Explorer
I've got an E-150 with a leaking rear axle shaft seal. This seal is probably leaking because of a worn rear wheel bearing allowing the axle to follow an elliptical path and damage the seal and due to the axle's design of using the axle shaft as the inner bearing race, that probably means a worn rear axle shaft. Conjecture at this point because I haven't pulled the differential cover, cross-shaft retaining bolt, cross-shaft, axle c-clip, wheel, drum, and axle to find out the extent of the damage. That's a lot of work and I'd rather not do it twice in a month.

So, what to do about it?

Option 1) Replace the axle shaft, bearing and seal. ~$125 Returns things to OE and might last ~30k miles (current) and might last 150k. Who knows. When it goes, it'll mean another $125 or more repair.

Option 2) Reuse the axle shaft with a "repair bearing" that combines the bearing and seal into a single unit and moves their contact areas to avoid prior damage. ~$30. These have a spotty track record of long-term successes and failures.

Option 3) I could go get a junkyard 8.8" axle. Only van axles will work due to their width being substantially greater than any other vehicle. E-150 vans used the same rear axle and brakes from 86 to 1/19/00 then got bigger drums. 97-2000 12.76" drum, 2000-2006 13.07" drum, 2006- disc. Disc brakes would be nice due to easier service. If it requires a bunch of part swapping like a master cylinder or if the brake lines are significantly different, I'm not doing it. Just replaced the frame-to-axle rubber hose and not looking to make this more than a 1 weekend project. No disc brake vans are available at my local junkyards right now but if one comes up they get $55 for a bare housing, $33 for shafts, etc so I think it'd add up to $150 or so. Not too bad if it's in good usable shape when received and doesn't need brakes, seals, etc but I'd be in the same shape I am now for bearings and seals so only the brakes would be an upgrade and I'm frankly happy with current brake performance. I've been over my GVWR several times and didn't feel at risk. That was before replacing my shocks and all rubber brake lines and now I have a set of rear brake shoes soaked in gear lube from this leaking axle so I expect things to only get better after this repair, even with the OE drums.

Option 4) I could go get a junkyard axle with a different bearing/seal design. Again, axle width plays a major role in selection but options available include the venerable 9", Dana 60, etc so upgrades possible here include both bearing/seal design, axle strength, brakes, etc. Major consideration is wheels. I already have 16" wheels, which are hard to find in the 5x5.5" pattern, so I don't see going to 8-lugs as a benefit in and of itself but swapping in an 8-lug rear axle would mean either carrying two spares (not gonna happen) or also swapping the necessary parts onto the front to run 8-lug stuff there too, AND buying wheels again. This would include a brake upgrade, but might require swapping master cylinders, lines, etc so...not a 1 weekend project. Another consideration is gearing. I have 3:08 in the rear now and really like it. I think someday when my daily gvw is around 6,500lbs and I'm climbing mountains in Central America I might wish I had 3:55s or even deeper gears but maybe not. I do not have OD so a ring and pinion in the ~3:1 range suits me great. This gearing range is uncommon in my experience in the D60 and similar axles. This all leads me to the idea of swapping in a 9" rear, which is available in the correct width and bolt pattern for my application in E-150 vans from 1975-1986. None currently in my local junkyards but I think it'd be easy to turn one up. There's a cheap van in the correct year range on my local craigslist right now I've requested more info on. A 9" uses an altogether different and IMO, better bearing/seal setup. They also use a drop-out 3rd member so swapping gears, differentials, etc is cheap and easy if you can find a use one already setup and since the 9" was made for so long and is so popular aftermarket, there's a TON of diffs, etc available for them.

Option 5) Upgrade my current axle to a better bearing/seal design. This is kind of a twist on Option 4. Several companies make "c-clip eliminators" for the 8.8" axle and they essential change the 8.8" over to the 9" arrangement. To do this you cut an inch or two off the end of the axle housing, where the bearings and seals currently reside, and replace them with a bolt-on housing that contains the 9" style bearing and seal. 9" axles use press-fit bearings and a "wedding ring" retainer that eliminate the need for a c-clip for axle shaft retaining. I've contacted a couple of the companies in the market and it seems my axle doesn't have a ready-made solution available because the greatest demand for these products are among the users of Explorer axles swapped into jeeps and such, and among the Mustang drag-race crowd, and neither of those applications use the same bearing as my van so the bolt-patterns and bracket clearances are all wrong. If a ready-made solution were available, it'd run about $150 based on the pricing of similar products.

Option 6) This is where you come in. What have I not considered?
 
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hobovan

'00 E350SD PSD
Saw the 9's a lot when I used to race. They can be built to withstand an apocalypse. I'd probably swap in a true 9" if I were you.
 

Stumpalump

Expedition Leader
30 bucks and be done in one afternoon. Very very tempting depending on your needs, weight and money. I'd do that unless I wanted more beef. I did the beefed up C-clip eliminator kit on an Explorer rear for the Jeep XJ and it's been great. It made it wider but you would have to order custom cut axles. No big deal because they do it daily. You will have a light rear end that's almost as strong as the dana 60. It's a great rear end and if you want to swap gears then genuine Ford Racing Gears (just call Jegs for the ratio you want) will drop right in with almost no or no setup. Swap axles and your looking at driveshaft build, mounting, ubolts, mounting and shocks that may not fit, breaks and emergency breaks to deal with. Adds up to making a beefed up 8.8 a good plan as well. My outer bearing housing is a 1" block of steel not aluminum. Powertrax no-slip works really smooth in it. Good luck on what you decide.
 

Mwilliamshs

Explorer
...I did the beefed up C-clip eliminator kit on an Explorer rear for the Jeep XJ and it's been great. It made it wider but you would have to order custom cut axles. My outer bearing housing is a 1" block of steel not aluminum...

What kit did you use? Haven't found a steel one. Maybe the folks making it make one that'll work for me. I've checked Moser, Strange, and Yukon. Wider axles aren't necessary with most kits BTW but Yukon in particular does because they go from the small Explorer bearings to the beefy Set-20 Timkens.

...Swap axles and your looking at driveshaft build, mounting, ubolts, mounting and shocks that may not fit, breaks and emergency breaks to deal with...

Beauty of using an axle from a Ford van and putting it in a Ford van of same body style (75-91) is shocks do in fact fit and driveshafts still interchange if flange/yokes don't match. New u-bolts should always be used. Brake and emergency brake hardware interchanges as well. Best case scenario at this point for me is buying a 75-86 van, u-bolts, and swapping rear axles, and driveshafts too if need be. I've found an 84 E-150 RB (important since RB and EB have the same wheelbase, thus driveshaft length, but the shorter vans don't) with a 9" rear and c6 trans so the front of the driveshaft matches my transmission (also a c6) and if the rear of my driveshaft doesn't match the 9" axle, I could just swap driveshafts altogether from one van to the other. Hoping to pick up the van cheap, swap the parts I want, and resell what I don't. The van doesn't currently run due to a fouled carb so if I do the swap and fix the carb then sell a running van, I might actually make a profit.
 
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Stumpalump

Expedition Leader
Superior super 88 kit was what I used but they are gone. It looks just like the Yukon kit. Are you sure they are not steel? Pic of mine.

image.jpg
 

Mwilliamshs

Explorer
Superior super 88 kit was what I used but they are gone. It looks just like the Yukon kit. Are you sure they are not steel? Pic of mine.

View attachment 342247

Could be steel I guess. Maybe I just assumed based on appearance and that the others are aluminum? Must have. https://www.yukongear.com/productdetails.aspx?ProdID=10255

super88-12.jpg


The brake backing plate bolt pattern on my axle prevents the installation of that kit according to their tech support. The higher GAWR 8.8" axles (like mine) use different parts and OE 31 spline housings (like mine) use larger diameter tubes.
 
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Stumpalump

Expedition Leader
I'm liking the $30 bearing more. This may be mis represented but worth checking with Ford racing Parts. https://www.ringpinion.com/b2c/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=2006
I've got a good 94 F150 8.8 stashed way under an apartment complex building in W.Little Rock AR that you can have if it helps. I'd bet good money it's still there if your headed that way and want to dig it out. You gotta carry it a out and then a couple hundred feet.
I made sure nobody would take it unless they wanted it real bad and that if they find it. I filled the pumkin to the top as well so it should be good inside. Maybe you could just snag the axles and bearings if they fit. 2 somthing hi way gears. I think breaks are gone.
 

bugeyetex

Observer
It sounds like you are pretty much happy with the current performance of the vans braking system and the current gear ratio. I wouldn't start messing with anything but a new bearing and seal at this time if that's the case. You don't sound like you really want to change anything all that much, and why not... it seems to work, right? If its not broke, don't fix it. Or, call Ujoint and drop a few grand...
 

Mwilliamshs

Explorer
...This may be mis represented but worth checking with Ford racing Parts. https://www.ringpinion.com/b2c/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=2006...

Made for Ford by Strange. No difference in that part and the one sold by folks like Summit or Jegs as a Strange part. Fits the smallest bearings and OE 28 spline shafts or aftermarket shafts made to that dimension. I have the largest bearings and OE 31 spline shafts.

...I've got a good 94 F150 8.8 stashed way under an apartment complex building in W.Little Rock AR that you can have if it helps. I'd bet good money it's still there if your headed that way and want to dig it out...

LOL What a crazy story! Sounds like a few things I've done. I live in West Little Rock. PM me details

...If its not broke, don't fix it. Or, call Ujoint and drop a few grand...

Working on rear axle, not a 4wd conversion and besides, U-Joint has nothing available for vans of my era. Chris has had some -91 vans and even converted at least one of them to 4wd I think, but doesn't market parts or kits for them.
 
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philos

Explorer
Option 1. Takes it back to where you liked it and it functions again.
If the repair comes up again, then do the 9" (option 4).
That's probably what I would do.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

Stumpalump

Expedition Leader
Made for Ford by Strange. No difference in that part and the one sold by folks like Summit or Jegs as a Strange part. Fits the smallest bearings and OE 28 spline shafts or aftermarket shafts made to that dimension. I have the largest bearings and OE 31 spline shafts.



LOL What a crazy story! Sounds like a few things I've done. I live in West Little Rock. PM me details



Working on rear axle, not a 4wd conversion and besides, U-Joint has nothing available for vans of my era. Chris has had some -91 vans and even converted at least one of them to 4wd I think, but doesn't market parts or kits for them.

Treasure map sent.
 

Mwilliamshs

Explorer
Been doing LOTS of reading and it appears the Ford 9" axle in stock configuration has a lower GAWR than my 8.8". I think my best solution for now is to hit up a couple junkyards and see if I can pull a good shaft. If so I'll plug that into my housing with a new OE bearing and seal and see what happens. If I can't locate a good used shaft I'll pull mine and see what it looks like and go from there, either a repair bearing or new shaft, depends on how the rest of the axle/differential/etc looks.

It's really not beyond me to fab a set of c-clip eliminators I just don't have time or my machines setup. Minus 5 points for apartment living and being in college.
 

gwittman

Adventurer
I am surprised an E-150 has a 8.8 axle. That is what they run on the Ranger. If you do any medium to heavy work with you van, you should seriously consider a 9" rear as suggested already.
 

Mwilliamshs

Explorer
I am surprised an E-150 has a 8.8 axle. That is what they run on the Ranger. If you do any medium to heavy work with you van, you should seriously consider a 9" rear as suggested already.

Pretty much anything rwd and half-ton or below from Ford has an 8.8 since 1987. E-150, F-150, Expedition, Mustang, Ranger, Sport-trac...even IFS and IRS use the 8.8 centersection. GAWR for the 8.8 is higher than the 9" ever was. Overloading either axle is evidenced in wheel bearing wear first, the 9" is just designed to be serviced a little easier in that regard because the bearings use an inner race which can be replaced whereas the 8.8 uses the axleshaft as the inner race (like a GM 12bolt) so bearing wear = shaft wear which = $ and hassle. Sucks that the 8.8, which is more likely to require shaft replacement, also requires disassembling the differential to remove said shafts, whereas the 9" allows their removal by just unbolting the retainers. An 8.8 with c-clip eliminators really is the best of both worlds and sincerely rivals the Dana 60 for strength.
 

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