Foamboard to Metal?

GaryMc

Explorer
I picked up a ARE DCU shell for my new-to-me Tundra and want to glue in some 3/4" foamboard for insulation. Any idea what glue would be best for mounting foam to a slick aluminum surface that gets faily hot from the sun?
I figure 3M spray adhesive will melt the foam, so thats probably out.
 

mhiscox

Expedition Leader
They make glues especially designed not to melt fopamboard. One example that is easy to get hold of is Loctite PL-300

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/pl_ca_300_voc/overview/Loctite-PL-300-VOC-Foamboard-Adhesive.htm

I've not used it personally, and slick aluminum isn't a routine mention in the product description, but it should be safe.

If you'd rather spray something, 3M has this aerosol adhesive that claims to be safe with EPS insulation:

http://www.amazon.com/3M-78-Polystyrene-Insulation-Translucent/dp/B001EUOAGK
 

Ducky's Dad

Explorer
If the aluminum panels are all flat (no bending of the foam board required), you might skip the glue and use strips of mounting tape. See the VHB/UHB tape discussion from a couple of weeks ago.
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
skip glues and go directly to 100% silicone caulking. It adheres nicely, it doesn't melt or damage anything, it's near impervious to vehicle heat / solar insolation issues, and you can removeit later if you have to without damaging the surface you used it on. Just use some shoring or weight to press the foam in place while the silicone cures. Depending on what position / orientation you are working in.

eta 3m Super77 won't hold to roof / ceiling heat in a vehicle sitting in the sun.
 

McBride

Adventurer
skip glues and go directly to 100% silicone caulking. It adheres nicely, it doesn't melt or damage anything, it's near impervious to vehicle heat / solar insolation issues, and you can removeit later if you have to without damaging the surface you used it on. Just use some shoring or weight to press the foam in place while the silicone cures. Depending on what position / orientation you are working in.

+1

I agree with using a non-heat sensitive adhesive like silicone. Contact cements are heat soluble and would likely delaminate when it gets super hot. Make sure you clamp it until the silicone is cured.

If the shell is already on the truck maybe you could use thin pieces of wood to clamp it, something like a "go bar deck".
 

GaryMc

Explorer
Thanks guys. After too many days of thinking about it, I did the install yesterday morning. Instead of glue/caulk, I cut the foam one 1/16th bigger than the frame opening so that it fits snug enough that it won't fall out.
I'm going to skin the inside with 1/4 plywood once I run some wiring.
 

spencyg

This Space For Rent
3M Super 77 spray adhesive works great as long as you follow the directions to a T. Clean both surfaces and let thoroughly dry, then an even coat on each surface (foam and metal)...let it sit for maybe 5 minutes. When they say "wait until aggressively tacky" they mean it. Wait. If you do it too soon the whole thing is botched. I just glued a ton of steel sheetmetal (24ga) to blue foam for my wife's classroom (magnetic whiteboards) and when I followed the directions it worked like a charm. When I didn't...well...

SG
 

mezmochill

Is outside
Thanks guys. After too many days of thinking about it, I did the install yesterday morning. Instead of glue/caulk, I cut the foam one 1/16th bigger than the frame opening so that it fits snug enough that it won't fall out.
I'm going to skin the inside with 1/4 plywood once I run some wiring.

Smaht.
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
Thanks guys. After too many days of thinking about it, I did the install yesterday morning. Instead of glue/caulk, I cut the foam one 1/16th bigger than the frame opening so that it fits snug enough that it won't fall out.
I'm going to skin the inside with 1/4 plywood once I run some wiring.


Heh. That stuff's coming down the first washboard road you drive on. You need to glue it, one way or another.
 
Thanks guys. After too many days of thinking about it, I did the install yesterday morning. Instead of glue/caulk, I cut the foam one 1/16th bigger than the frame opening so that it fits snug enough that it won't fall out.
I'm going to skin the inside with 1/4 plywood once I run some wiring.

Hi. I'm planning to do something very similar. Except I was thinking 1/8 inch plywood. How were you planning to attach the plywood to the metal ribs? Sheet metal screws? Pop rivets?

Regards
John
 

GaryMc

Explorer
I'm in the process of skinning with 1/4 plywood. The foam panels fit so tight that they will not shift/rattle.
I considered 1/8", but wanted to be able to mount light items to the interior and the 1/4" seems better for that.
 

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