Flippac new torsion bar install (specific question to those who have had success)

[gregmcrae]

I've found some great info about replacing the torsion bar on this site but have a specific question about replacing the torsion bar and the spline's tolerance for hammering. I was hoping to keep this out of the fray of the other Flippac Torsion bar threads.

I got a bar from sway away racing
https://swayaway.com/product-category/torsion-bars/tb-flippac/

My question is regarding the splines of the new bar matching up in the existing mounts on the Flippac itself. I first noticed getting the crank arm on to the new spline of the new bar takes some wrestling. I imagine it will match up better as it gets used.
I've utilized a brass hammer to tap (whack) the bar through the passeger side mount holes. I've used some lube spray to help slip the new spline of the new bar through the older splined holes but it seems like I need to really pound the bar to pass it through. Once I get the sleeve on and start inserting the bar into the driver's side I'm not sure how much force is OK to pound it through the driver's side lid mount. I don't want to abuse the bar or the mounts themselves jeopardizing the integrity of the fiberglass. Once the lid is vertical it will be even harder to complete because of the downward pressure from the weight of the lid.

Thoughts / tips / tricks from those who have performed this job?

Also, is it easier to do this job with the Flippac removed from the truck (knowing I'll have make sure I don't open it past 90 degrees to avoid it dumping over).

Any opinions from experience are welcome and appreciated!

this link is helpful (but not for my question)

http://forum.expeditionportal.com/threads/3702-Flip-pac-camper-build/page9?highlight=torsion

 

[gregmcrae]

Update
With a tip from of a fellow Filppac owner and an two other highly skilled friends I have successfully changed out the torsion bar.
It required some elbow grease, axle grease, a brass hammer, multiple clamps, a 2x4, a roof, and a rope.

The key was to file the new (swayaway in my case) torsion bar at the splines (we used a small 60 degree file) and then wire brush it until the existing bushings slid pretty easily over the new splines before trying to insert it into the flip. As it came shipped it was slightly larger than the existing holes on both the flip and the white bushings. Even after that is took a decent amount of encouragement from the hammer.

Another key tip was to clamp the mounts on the flip together and in place to keep from fighting against even minimal mis-alignment. it is helpful to put a spline section of the broken bar in the drivers side of the flip to hold alignment while you are starting to work the bar into the passenger side. Having the ability to "rack" the lid from the rear to help align the holes is important as getting the bushings in their recessed holes can be a bear. It is key to have someone manage the gasket from popping out on the driver's side as you start to insert the new bar into left bushing. We also employed some Dewalt (rubber footed) clamps to vertically squeeze the lid and the overhang of the shell together. (not applicable for 8 ft. flips).

Hit me up with any questions, I'm glad to share practical experience as it's still fresh in my memory.

Cheers and good luck.

 

[WOODY2]

Thanks for the words of wisdom. Now when I have to replace mine the struggle won't be as difficult.

 

[Series1Rangie]

This is on my short list. My new-to-me flip-pac has a broken torsion bar and came with a new one from sway-a-way. What did you mean by vertically squeeze the lid and the overhang together? My plan was to do the passenger side then prop the top against the car port in a vertical position and slide it home.

Thanks,

Mike


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[gregmcrae]

I used the clamps (Dewalt with rubber with rubber feet) to hold the lid and body together as I aligned and started the new bar in each set of holes.

Make sure the new bar is in both sides before attempting to flip vertically. You have to leave the splined end on the passenger side hanging out to allow it to spin freely as you erect the flip to 90 degrees. This will keep the drivers side from falling off as you erect it. Once it is at 90 degrees, tap it in the rest of the way leaving about .5 of an inch hanging out the passenger side. (look and take pictures of your existing bar before removing.) See picture to see how far the bar is in once job is completed.

Let me know if I can clarify anything further. I took some head scratching for me at first.

 

[DVexile]

Update
The key was to file the new (swayaway in my case) torsion bar at the splines (we used a small 60 degree file) and then wire brush it until the existing bushings slid pretty easily over the new splines before trying to insert it into the flip. As it came shipped it was slightly larger than the existing holes on both the flip and the white bushings. Even after that is took a decent amount of encouragement from the hammer.

For clarification what specifically needed to be filed? The grooves themselves (i.e. making the grooves deeper) or was it the outer diameter of the splines that was too big? Or both?

Thanks for your super helpful write-up by the way!

 

[Series1Rangie]

I did not need to do any filing. I did oil the crap out of it. Cleaning the coating off of the splines would have been helpful.


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[MtnTaco]

I have had a similar problem. See my post at http://forum.expeditionportal.com/threads/170934-Problems-installing-Swayaway-torsion-bar-in-flippac
Brian at Swayaway says that their tolerances in building their replacement torsion bars are very tight, and the bar should 'slide' in through the female splines in the flip pack brackets. If it does not go through easily, or with just a little tapping, then it is likely that the female splines are damaged or contaminated. The tolerance is only a few thousandths, so even a little rust can make it hard to go through
He recommended slightly filing either the female splines in the bracket or male splines on the bar; but only a little bit; 3 or 4 passes with a square (90 degree) file. He said a 30/60 file would probably work because you should not be taking off much material.

 

[Brutsie]

Hello. New to the Portal and Flippacs and late jumping on board to this conversation. I recently purchased a flippac with a "deleted" torsion bar. I am leaning towards reinstalling a new torsion bar. I have not yet disassembled the "Delete" to see if the splines are still in good order to receive a new bar. I was thinking that in delete mode, the brackets and hence splines might get somewhat wallowed out. Does anyone have any feedback or advice on this venture? Thanks.

 

[inv3ctiv3]

Hello. New to the Portal and Flippacs and late jumping on board to this conversation. I recently purchased a flippac with a "deleted" torsion bar. I am leaning towards reinstalling a new torsion bar. I have not yet disassembled the "Delete" to see if the splines are still in good order to receive a new bar. I was thinking that in delete mode, the brackets and hence splines might get somewhat wallowed out. Does anyone have any feedback or advice on this venture? Thanks.

Your best bet is to just buy a new torsion bar and hinges from sway away then you'll be good to go.

 

[Brutsie]

Ok. Thank you for the reply and advice. Are the hinges pretty straight forward to replace?

 

[Series1Rangie]

They have bolts from the interior. I would guess it depends upon how rusty/stuck they are.

I have a 2006 flippac, that came deleted with a replacement torsion bar. Getting the old pieces out took heat, penetration fluid, and a tie rod puller with my impact. Getting the new one in wasn’t much easier. It took some solid whacks to get it in. It’s been great for years.

HTH


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[Brutsie]

HTH,

Thanks for the reply and valuable feedback. I shall look into all this. Externally everything looks really good (no visible rust, intact & sealed caulking around the hinges) but I have not yet fully inspected from the interior.

When removing the delete bolts to inspect splines and rust, etc, is it a good idea to have clamps in place near the hinge to keep all parts lined up to then reassemble after inspecting said parts. The "new to me" flippac is already installed on my Tacoma and removal of it, or stranding myself "dead in the water", in a disassembled state, are not great options currently. Would you recommend removing the flippac from the vehicle to so all this work, or not? I suspect there must be pro's and cons? Again, thanks to both you and inv3ctiv3 for the help. -brutsie

 

[dtwilder]

Update
With a tip from of a fellow Filppac owner and an two other highly skilled friends I have successfully changed out the torsion bar.
It required some elbow grease, axle grease, a brass hammer, multiple clamps, a 2x4, a roof, and a rope.

The key was to file the new (swayaway in my case) torsion bar at the splines (we used a small 60 degree file) and then wire brush it until the existing bushings slid pretty easily over the new splines before trying to insert it into the flip. As it came shipped it was slightly larger than the existing holes on both the flip and the white bushings. Even after that is took a decent amount of encouragement from the hammer.

Another key tip was to clamp the mounts on the flip together and in place to keep from fighting against even minimal mis-alignment. it is helpful to put a spline section of the broken bar in the drivers side of the flip to hold alignment while you are starting to work the bar into the passenger side. Having the ability to "rack" the lid from the rear to help align the holes is important as getting the bushings in their recessed holes can be a bear. It is key to have someone manage the gasket from popping out on the driver's side as you start to insert the new bar into left bushing. We also employed some Dewalt (rubber footed) clamps to vertically squeeze the lid and the overhang of the shell together. (not applicable for 8 ft. flips).

Hit me up with any questions, I'm glad to share practical experience as it's still fresh in my memory.

Cheers and good luck.

Thanks much for this! I'm trying to reinstall my torsion bar after replacing one of the hinges. I've been unable to find instructions but did find a post on another forum that says to install the bar with the lid in the vertical position. This is what I had tought since that's where I think you'd want no torsion on the bar. But this post seems to indicate that the bar should be installed with the lid in the closed position and with clamps holding the lid on at the overhang just behind the cab. Is that the proper position for the lid? Wouldn't there be more resistance as the lid is fully opened?