Fixed Rear Winch AND Aux Battery

[spencyg]

Chafe protection is also paramount, regardless of what size the wire is or where it is running. I use spiral wrap on a majority of my wire runs, anchor all wires every 6-12", and use 1/8" Hypalon rubberized material as a "wrap" whenever cable passes thru a metal hole. To me, chafe on these rigs with the kind of usage we all put them thru is the #1 enemy of a stable and reliable electrical system.

SG

 

[Wh1t3nukle]

So far...

Just need battery, run the leads, install solenoid, and mount a relay/fuse box for accessories.


My starter battery is an Odyssey, about 20 months old. For this application, can I save some pennies for this aux battery? I've read it's appropriate to have matching/similar charge profiles as priority. What suggestions out there?

 

[robert]

That bolt on the exhaust hanger looks like it either touches or may touch the battery box which will cause rattling and wear. Hopefully it won't get too hot there by the exhaust; heat kills bateries. Be sure you insulate the top posts so that if you come donw hard on the box it can't get jammed up into the bed.

 

[Wh1t3nukle]

It touches alright. The bolt tapping the box compared to other creaks and rattles is of no concern. Muffler rubber isolator on the other side dampens it anyways.

Battery is in direct open air. Significantly less heat exposure compared to the one in the engine bay.

Other stuff would limit any contact direct to the box. Notice the tail pipe is untouched.


This thing should be all powered up this week as the last of the parts showed up. Decided to run ground all the way back to the engine battery as opposed to the frame. From what I've read, people seemed more apt to that to ensure the connection.

 

[dwh]

I've read it's appropriate to have matching/similar charge profiles as priority. What suggestions out there?

Batteries don't have to be the same unless connected together full time to create a bank.

Charge profiles of different batteries is irrelevant. Doesn't matter what batteries you use, your alternator/voltage regulator isn't going to do anything any differently unless you have some way to custom program the regulator.

 

[Wh1t3nukle]

^thanks

I ended with matching battery.

Installed everything, powered rear winch, and just need to hook ACR up. Trying to decide if I want to run the remote switch are not.

 

[robert]

You're a braver man than me, I don't like to get my hand that near the fairlead. Of course I'm still running wire rope and have to worry about stray wires, definitely one of the downsides vs synthetic. One day I'd like to put a winch under the rear of my Tacoma as well but it's not a high priority.

 

[dwh]

You definitely want the override.

The Bluesea auto connects when voltage drops, that's true. But IIRC, it will disconnect if voltage drops *too far*. That can certainly happen during winching.

So install the override and lock the solenoid on whenever using either winch.

Edit: And...the Bluesea uses timers when connecting/disconnecting. Another reason to override and lock it on while winching.

 

[Wh1t3nukle]

Only need to connect ground wire to the common ground of the batteries. Works as expected with the switching.

Remote switch I'll add later.