Fixed Rear Winch AND Aux Battery

Wh1t3nukle

I gotz dis
Hello folks, thanks for checking in based on my thread title. :)

I've done some searching on here and picked up on some helpful ideas. I'm combining 2 common applications...sort of. The sort of part is that a fixed rear winch is atypical. Most have done removable, hitch mounts. The very common part is the Aux battery.

Currently have a front fixed 12K winch. No issues there. Picking up a Smittybilt 10K very soon during a sale.

Don't waste any time in making a case for a removable or necessity for a rear winch. I'm on the trails +2x a month all seasons and my stuff gets used. No carnage.



So here's the concept so far and looking for improvements.

1. Winch will be mounted appropriately and centered in the rear.

2. Aux battery to be mounted in proximity of winch such that the conductors reach.

3. Welding cable of the appropriate size from Aux Battery up to engine bay to a solenoid.

4. Solenoid that auto-opens for charging the Aux Battery.

5. Aux battery purpose is only for Aux needs (e.g., lighting, gadgets, winch, etc.). If a jump start is needed, then I manually apply jumper cables to utilize. Additionally, if welding is needed. :)

6. Manual switch between Aux battery and winch. Open to ideas here.

7. What am I missing?

8. What am I missing?



Threads that contain some good info for me to revisit.

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/65483-fusing-a-winch

http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...rear-hitch-mounted-winch?highlight=rear+winch

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/126445-Fusing-a-winch?highlight=rear+winch
 

proper4wd

Expedition Leader
You're on target and I'm working out something similar right now. Just make sure that the solenoid you select can carry the amperage. I've been looking at the Blue Sea 7620 or similar.
 

Wh1t3nukle

I gotz dis
Yeah I am intending 500a minimum solenoid.

With this setup, the rear winch will benefit from both batteries, correct? Solenoid would be open bc senses aux battery drop to thus charge.

However the front won't benefit unless I have a manual switch to jump the solenoid. Is my understanding correct?

Thanks for the input and look forward to your setup.
 

Wh1t3nukle

I gotz dis
Took awhile to get going...

9a74642910d4dcaca766c79db3bb793f.jpg


Probably get an Odyssey to match the starter.

cc78f81ad4cf6b45a569429ff2e34a04.jpg


Have I read correctly this should have an inline fuse?
 

spencyg

This Space For Rent
I would have an inline fuse at each end of your heavy gauge cable run between the engine bay and the aux battery. Instant fire if you were to chafe that connecting cable or if it were to break or be pinched. I have #2 high strand count cable going between the engine bay and my isolator solenoid for my house bank, and each end of that cable is protected with a 300A fuse. I also have my rear winch connected directly to my house bank in the rear of my van as you are intending to do. I don't think you'll have any problems with your proposed setup as long as you are paying close attention to cable sizes and circuit lengths.

SG
 

LR Max

Local Oaf
You could do #2 from the aux battery to the winch. Assuming you mount them within ~5 feet of each other. Should be fine.

a #0 gauge wire would be good from the battery compartment. You could just run one and ground locally since it isn't a signal wire. Get some "cheap" wire (like, 16ga) and run it how you want it. Then you'll know how long it needs to be. Then, you'll have spare 16ga at the end for misc wiring needs.

I used welding wire when I did up my rover back in 2002 or whenever. Still using those exact cables today, no issues. So if you do it right, it'll be done once.

As you know, a battery can do at least two full pulls before she starts to give way. At that point, the solenoids (assuming non-solid state) will start to give out. So there is your weak link.
 

Wh1t3nukle

I gotz dis
Good morning gents. Spencyg and LR Max, thanks for your input. I sketched out my interpretation of your suggestions.

LR I got lost on the #0 and 16g I think.... those are the hot and ground from ACR to Aux battery?

4a9e6a4ff96d5c58bf2117b2cf8191ac.jpg


Thx
 

LR Max

Local Oaf
LR I got lost on the #0 and 16g I think.... those are the hot and ground from ACR to Aux battery?

Negative. This is in reference to wire size. See visual aid below for more information:

0529s.jpg


All I'm saying is use the 16ga as a "template" (you know, like how you use cardboard to make a template before welding something together). 0 ga wire isn't cheap, so having a piece too short is bad, and having a piece too long is also no fun.
 

Wh1t3nukle

I gotz dis
Alright I did interpret you correctly as a result of my picture in the post I put up. I was hung up on the "from the battery compartment".

Thanks
 

green73brc

Observer
How to put a fuse on the winch Side too but I'm just paranoid also remember to protect the wires with some sort of anti chafe
 

LR Max

Local Oaf
My winch isn't fused. I've done all kinds of dumb stuff with it and its fine. Really, the solenoid is the "fuse". Anything goes wrong and it usually turns into a paper weight.

Definitely sheath the wires when they are against other metal/pointed surfaces. I did the spiral wrap on mine near where they connect to the winch. Been fine for 15 years or however long my winch has been there.
 

cruiserpilot

Adventurer
I've got two winches, dual batteries, dual alternators and I used 2/0 battery cable from front aux battery to rear winch contactor box. I used 2/0 for both pos and neg wires. It used almost
50 feet for the whole truck. Both winches are operating from the aux battery. The batteries are solenoid separated after engine start, so essentially I have 2 separate electrical systems.
It's a bit complicated, but should all else fail, I can still start my truck and drive. I also have a fridge, and webasto, and aux lights all on the second battery/alternator.
I have a hot buss up front for lights, webasto, fridge, etc. It's a lighter wire, not sure what size. What I did for the winches is I installed a 750 amp isolator rotator switch. This allows me to have
all power off to both winches for daily use. I can isolate and operate either front or rear individually or both should I be out in the bush. In event of a meltdown or short circuit ( and YES this did happen once! )
all I had to do was turn the isolator switch. I didn't fuse my winches and don't believe its necessary with any of the new modern winches. My opinion.
Just make good connections, use proper wire, mark your wire - pos or neg, and don't scrimp on your grounds. I have red elec tape marking all my pos wire leads, so I know which ones are hot even if I can't tell
which or where it's going.
Hope it helps.
 

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