Fire extinguishers

pyemaster

Member
Hi all,

Looking to get a fire extinguisher mounted in my truck, though I'm unsure of which one to go for.

There seems to be some discussion over the merits or otherwise of powder versions (mainly in the corrosive qualities of what they expel), and of the size required to adequately extinguish your average vehicle fire (some swear by nothing less than 10kg, others that nothing would get the job done when liquids start to take hold anyway).

There is the argument that so long as it gets you and your passengers out it's done its job, and the vehicle is in the hands of the insurance company.

The other option is Firestrykers, but while they last longer they seem to have a lot less reach.

What do other people run with?

Owen
 

PhulesAU

Explorer
Did not do the conversion , but I run with 2 10 lbs. bottles ABC which are your All Around Type dry chem. get over the corrosive worries, after you put the fire out take a water hose to it. I have one within reach of drivers seat and one inside tail gate.
 

Hnoroian

Observer
Get an ABC rated. I would consider 10kg very large but manageable if you have the room. I have 1- ~2.5kg in the cab and 1- ~5kg in the tool box in the bed. The corrosive properties is the last thing I am worried about, (God forbid) if there is ever a need to use it on myself or anyone else.
 
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sargeek

Adventurer
You want the best: Military Grade Fire Extinguisher: Get an Ansul Cartridge Operated: https://www.ansul.com/en/us/pages/ProductDetail.aspx?productdetail=RED+LINE+Cartridge-Operated+Hand+Portables%E2%80%94Dry+Chemical

You want a decent extinguishers: http://amerex-fire.com/products/regular-dry-chemical-stored-pressure-sodium-bicarbonate-extinguishers/

All of these have metal cases, and are refillable. I bet their are some race proven providers that are equally as good. Must get a vehicle mounting bracket. An unsecured 2.5# extinguishers will beat you up in a roll over.

Avoid the cheap extinguishers - plastic head and not refillable: https://www.walmart.com/ip/42732928?wmlspartner=wlpa&adid=22222222227031385589&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=53491285472&wl4=pla-112239024512&wl5=9028718&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=42732928&wl13=&veh=sem
 

pyemaster

Member
Thanks for the feedback guys. I was thinking BC rather than ABC, as it was less corrosive without the chemicals in the 'A' additives. Do you think I'd be losing much extinguishing power with just a BC?

I would expect most vehicle fires would be under the hood, or dash, either way there's not too much wood or paper under there... Therefore BC would be adequate?

Happy to be corrected!

Owen
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
If your ****'s on fire, 'corrosive' doesn't mean anything. You're going to be cleaning and refurbing things anyway. Or it winds up a total loss from the fire and it doesn't matter anyway. Think it through.


See some of the same 'triggering' about 'corrosive' on firearms boards. All you have to do is clean up.
 

altaboy

Observer
Total loss?????

Been thru 3 vehicle fires in my years. 2 w. quick action on the extinguisher very early caused minimal damage. The 3rd.....carb fire....no extinguisher....sand to smother....totaled.

Just depends on what you have to potentially loose.
 

seekerbeta

Observer
There is a company in the US and Canada that makes aerosol cans of fire retardant. called COLDFIRE we use it at the race track for all sorts of fires, small enough to get into all the cracks, but big enough to slow the fire down so you can get a good one on the fire. I think they are well worth the money, I had both that and a regular good quality ABC Fire extinguisher in my car. I get then recertified every five years and refilled at my local safety supply company for a small fee.
 
If your ****'s on fire, 'corrosive' doesn't mean anything. You're going to be cleaning and refurbing things anyway. Or it winds up a total loss from the fire and it doesn't matter anyway. Think it through.


See some of the same 'triggering' about 'corrosive' on firearms boards. All you have to do is clean up.

The trouble is, dry chemical gets EVERYWHERE! Used it on a car many years ago, washed the car and the engine compartment within two hours of putting the fire out. Nonetheless, within the year all the paint on the top of the car was dead. Every piece of aluminum under the hood (the fire was only hot enough to damage the paint on the hood, it did not blister) corroded as though it had been left in a creek for a freaking year. The dry chemical destroyed the blower motor and the wiper motor. It also got into the hood braces (between the hood skin and the inner hood) and within three years the hood rotted from the indie out (again, not where the fire had been, but at the back where the dry chemical settled when the hood was opened).

In an emergency I agree, putting the fire out is paramount (in the end, the vehicle is replaceable), but when I am planning what to have in case of fire, Halon or one of its replacements is my choice.
 

verdesardog

Explorer
I have a 5lb carbon dioxide in my truck. If you do go with a dry powder type make sure to shake it up every 6 months or so to prevent caking of the powder making it ineffective!
 

jschmidt

Adventurer
I have a 5lb carbon dioxide in my truck. If you do go with a dry powder type make sure to shake it up every 6 months or so to prevent caking of the powder making it ineffective!

Right. And you should be able to turn it over with your ear on it and hear the sandy sound of the powder sliding down. It can become compacted before the pressure indicator budges. With both pressure and powder, it will work.
 

pyemaster

Member
Thinking of the new E-series of water mist extinguishers, as they seem the best multi-purpose and are 100% environmentally safe by the sounds of things.

Might have a 1kg BC powder as a back up.

Owen
 

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