Finished my RTT Trailer

Mr. T

Member
Started with 19/32 Ply wood made a box 48 x 56 x 24 inches for camping gear and to put a Smittybilt RTT on top.
Put RTT on top of box using two 4 foot sign poles.
Welded up a trailer to fit the wood box with 4 stabilizers, put a 4 inch PVC tube 5 feet long to one side of box for holding tarp poles.
Welded mounts to hold 6.5 x 8 foot ARB awning to other side of box.
Welded mounts to hold spare tire and propane tank.
If I can't get camping gear into this box I don't need to take it camping.
Made two supports from adjustable door brace security bars to give added support to tent when opened. (see one support in picture)
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JIMBO

Expedition Leader
Mine is a 4'x5' platform also, so I used a Tepui Katauna
It seems like the 4'x5' sizes are pretty rare-

whatever
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BAM298

Member
Looks great, very similar to what I built I'm just still working on getting a RTT and awning. Still using my ground tent/ez-up for now.

Tell me more about the awning adjustment? I've been thinking of doing something similar but I don't see how you got that height adjustment unless those posts are removed/stored horizontal when not in use or something?
 

Mr. T

Member
Looks great, very similar to what I built I'm just still working on getting a RTT and awning. Still using my ground tent/ez-up for now.

Tell me more about the awning adjustment? I've been thinking of doing something similar but I don't see how you got that height adjustment unless those posts are removed/stored horizontal when not in use or something?

Yes, I made the Awning box brackets so that two 5/8 inch square tubes 1/16 wall 5 feet tall, would fit inside the 1 inch square tubing 1/16 wall with a 2 and 4 inch pin adjustment. The Awning brackets are made with 1 inch square tubing 1/16 wall to on top of 5 ft. tall square tubes (I remove and store in the 4 inch PVC travel tube on the other side of box) and on the 5/8 inch square tubing 1/16 wall seen behind the removable 5 ft. tubes (see Awning up to open picture.} that have a 1 inch piece of square tubing welded 3 inches down from top of 5/8 square tube to keep awning bracket from sliding all the way down the tube. When the Awning is down for travel, the awning bracket fit on the Awning box bracket back piece behind where the 5 ft. tube slide in. (see Welded mounts to hold 6 x 8 ft. ARB awning to side of box, picture.)
 

lacofdfireman

Adventurer
Maybe I missed it but what kind of wood did you use for the box? Type, thicknesses etc. also how,did you seal the wood from the elements? Did you epoxy it or just use some type of paint. Really like your trailer.


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Mr. T

Member
Maybe I missed it but what kind of wood did you use for the box? Type, thicknesses etc. also how,did you seal the wood from the elements? Did you epoxy it or just use some type of paint. Really like your trailer.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I used19/32 CAT PS1-09 Pine Sanded Plywood, 1x1 Madison Mill Square Wood Poplar Dowels,1x6 pine boards and wood screws Elmer’s wood glue max (water proof) to hold it together. I used 5 coats of black concrete paint that is more durable than regular paint on the outside, plus it can handle the road grim. Regular exterior gray paint for the inside. This picture should help see how I put it together. The cross members are centered to match the RTT mounting bolts and 4 ft. sign post.
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lacofdfireman

Adventurer
Maybe I missed it but what kind of wood did you use for the box? Type, thicknesses etc. also how,did you seal the wood from the elements? Did you epoxy it or just use some type of paint. Really like your trailer.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I used19/32 CAT PS1-09 Pine Sanded Plywood, 1x1 Madison Mill Square Wood Poplar Dowels,1x6 pine boards and wood screws Elmer’s wood glue max (water proof) to hold it together. I used 5 coats of black concrete paint that is more durable than regular paint on the outside, plus it can handle the road grim. Regular exterior gray paint for the inside. This picture should help see how I put it together. The cross members are centered to match the RTT mounting bolts and 4 ft. sign post.
View attachment 459763

Awesome. Great information. I’m getting ready to build another trailer. I have already done one that was way overbuilt. This time I want to go lighter. I’m trying to decide if I should build another like my last one but smaller or one like yours. I really like yours.

Can you tell me how you ended up attaching yours to your trailer?

Also how has the paint held up on yours. Do you feel you have had any problems with swelling or maybe water getting into the plywood and messing up or warping your wood? How did you make your rear swing door. Thanks again for taking the time and answering questions.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

Mr. T

Member
Awesome. Great information. I’m getting ready to build another trailer. I have already done one that was way overbuilt. This time I want to go lighter. I’m trying to decide if I should build another like my last one but smaller or one like yours. I really like yours.

Can you tell me how you ended up attaching yours to your trailer?

Also how has the paint held up on yours. Do you feel you have had any problems with swelling or maybe water getting into the plywood and messing up or warping your wood? How did you make your rear swing door. Thanks again for taking the time and answering questions.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Here are some pictures help answer your questions. Welded tabs in the 4 corners of the trailer frame to attach box and stable braces, attached box using T-Nuts on the inside of box, bults from outside through tabs and at each cross brace. Welded (¾ angle iron) rectangular frame to attach to back of door for strength and keep door from warping. I had to file all the bolt holes to a square hole to fit carrage bolt on the hinges and door locks. Also welded (1” angle iron) across each corner of trailer frame to attach other end of stable braces to attach to. No problem with water used silicone on all bolts going through the wood and painted it all sides inside and out.
 

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