fabricated console ideas

Yes, it is. For some reason, there was a little more space on the passenger side. After thinking about it a while, I came up with the map pocket idea.
 
I hadn't really thought about a lock. I figure if they get into the truck, they're going to get into the console. That is an interesting re-purposing of the lock box.
 

02rangeredge

Adventurer
I hadn't really thought about a lock. I figure if they get into the truck, they're going to get into the console. That is an interesting re-purposing of the lock box.
Nice. Are you going to put a lock on it?

https://www.amazon.com/Kidde-AccessPoint-001170-Combination-Permanent/dp/B000CER1BA

I've seen where the combination face is permanently affixed to the lid and a small latch under the top.
61%2B2KvUvXiL._SL1000_.jpg

I use one of those lock boxes pretty frequently for work, I will say it is kind of a pain- after you put in the code the open "button" is actually a lever, you have to hold it down while you open the box, less than Ideal I'd think for a flat surface laying horizontally
 

Kraqa

Member
i started to adapt the factory ebrake handles to some CNC cutting brakes for a new center console i will be building.

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i still need to sort out a bracket to hold everything. i want this to look factory and be able to use the ratcheting mechanism to hold the cutting brake. i'm hoping if i get pulled over the cops wont know any better when they ask me to pull the ebrake. i do plan on leaving all the factory cables under the car in place so it also looks like i have a mechanical brake.
 

Kraqa

Member
so i made some more progress on the cutting brakes.

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folded and tig welded.
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center punch for the new mounting hole on the factory ebrake handle

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i machined a 1/4" spacer from aluminum to go between the ebrake handle and the cutting brake mount.

and here it is.

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i still have to adjust the linkages. they aren't perfect yet. Also as you can see i had to drill a second hole for the ball socket heim i had the pivot point wrong and it wouldn't allow for full travel.

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and roughly mocked up in the jeep. If i was smart i would have made the base mount to the factory locations. 2 of the 4 spots are only within 1/2" of the factory mounting holes.

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and the entire point of this project was to be ale to do this.
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i also kept the factory Ebrake indicator switch too. i'm pumped how factory this will look then complete.
 

Kraqa

Member
I take it that a cutting brake will not work if the rear axle has a Detroit Locker?

It will if you have a transfercase that will allow front wheel drive only. This is how i ran it in my ultra4 car before i switched to a rear spool. if you only have a 4wd i have in the ZJ you will need to have a selectable locker in the rear. i run ARB's front and rear.
 
Yeah transfer case is a twin stick NP205. An E Locker is possible for me instead of Detroit Locker also cheaper as it is an OEM part that I can find in salvage yards. Adding a push button switch on each handle wired in series to disable locker would be easy for me.

I am assuming you have rear disc with internal parking brake. Why not just connect each parking brake handle to the corresponding side parking brake and stay away from the hydraulics? Not as much locking force?
 

Kraqa

Member
Yeah transfer case is a twin stick NP205. An E Locker is possible for me instead of Detroit Locker also cheaper as it is an OEM part that I can find in salvage yards. Adding a push button switch on each handle wired in series to disable locker would be easy for me.

I am assuming you have rear disc with internal parking brake. Why not just connect each parking brake handle to the corresponding side parking brake and stay away from the hydraulics? Not as much locking force?

Lots of guys tried the auto unlock prox switch on cutting brakes years ago. I didnt work too well since the locker needs some rolling time to unlock.

The internal ebrake drums dont have enough holding power for bug tires plus they only work efficiently in forwards.

For me the mechanical ebrake is a pain ive had it working and i keep pulling the casing out of the cables. You just need to make it so effing tight to hold the vehicle in place. The cables just are qell suited for it.
 

robert

Expedition Leader
Try to avoid sharp/square edges when possible, banging up against them in an accident is uncomfortable. One of my friends has build a few for various cars over the years. He'd carve what he wanted out of Styrofoam, usually built over some sort of frame, glass over it then dissolve the foam with solvent. I've seen folks do similar using vacuum bagging too.
 

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