F350 Suspension Setup

danjr

Member
Hello All,

Seeking some advice from the forums.

We've got a 2013 Ford F350 CCSB SRW. Lots of aftermarket goodies including winch bumper, Icon 2.5" kit, 37's, 4.88 gears etc. I purchased the truck with the current suspension setup and am looking to make some changes to:
1-Address minor nose high rake when unloaded
2-Handle the weight of our 2010 Hallmark Guanella
3-possibly recenter rear axle inside of wheel well to better clear the 37's during articulation (minor issue and not a driving consideration)

I've weighed the truck as follows:
Unloaded: ~7900lbs 4520F/3380R
Fully loaded: ~10640 5020F/5620R (this may get another 400ish lbs on the hitch from some storage boxes I'm rigging up)

I've also taken measurements: to fender wheel on center with the hubs and find that the truck is just slightly higher in the front (~0.5") when unloaded. When the camper is loaded the rear of the truck drops roughly 2".

I did have some Timbren SAS's on, but have since removed. This did prevent about an inch of drop and likely helped with stability, but wasn't getting much suspension travel-translating to a harsh ride offroad. Driving the fully loaded truck without the timbrens the ride seems better. Truck does contact overloads at times-no harsh bumps but its a bit noisy as they engage and disengage.

Truck will likely be loaded with the camper roughly 90-95% of the time. We live in CO and are out in the mountains every weekend regardless of the season.

Options I'm considering:
Option 1: Add a 6-7" block in the rear (replacing factory 4" block) and accounting for drop of rear suspension when loaded-should net a level rig when loaded and a 2-3" rake when unloaded ~$300
Option 2: Add a 5" block in the rear (replacing factory 4" block) should level the rig when unloaded, and add Air Springs (leaning towards Hellwig Big Wigs from what I've read) ~$1000
Option 3: Go with an aftermarket progressive leaf pack providing significantly better unloaded ride at unloaded level height and add Air Springs ~$1800
Option 4: Go with an aftermarket progressive leaf pack built for the fully loaded truck ~$1300

Option 1 is a set it and forget it option-never worry about the air springs, etc. Cheapest option. Unloaded ride comfort not the best
Option 2 adds complication of air bags, but could be a better route for being able to level on off center load, and leveling the truck at campsites
Option 3 is the most expensive route but would likely make for the perfect ride condition
Option 4 might ride pretty rough when unloaded, but I'm not sure if it would still ride better than the factory non progressive springs

Help is greatly appreciated on making sense of these options. I only want to do this once. Thanks!
 

Superduty

Adventurer
3-possibly recenter rear axle inside of wheel well to better clear the 37's during articulation (minor issue and not a driving consideration)

How is the rear axle not centered?

I think the answer to your questions somewhat hinges on how much money you want to spend. It seems option 3 is the best if you only want to do it once.
 

danjr

Member
@Superduty The tires sit in the wheel well slightly back. With larger tires you notice where it will contact the body first on the backside of the fender if fully stuffed. If I was able to push the axle forward ~.5-1" it should center nicely and allow for better clearance.

You have a point on $ here. The base justification of this post is to not just throw money if other options are fine.
 

Regcabguy

Oil eater.
@Superduty The tires sit in the wheel well slightly back. With larger tires you notice where it will contact the body first on the backside of the fender if fully stuffed. If I was able to push the axle forward ~.5-1" it should center nicely and allow for better clearance.

You have a point on $ here. The base justification of this post is to not just throw money if other options are fine.
You'll need custom leafs out back in order to move the centering pins to move the axle forward a dab. I wouldn't get giant blocks for anything. Axle wrap will be awful. If the camper's on the majority of the time,a leafpack built for that weight might be the way to go. There are little blocks to mount in place on the ends of the overload in order to engage it sooner too. You have a great camper and a fine platform.
 

Superduty

Adventurer
@Superduty The tires sit in the wheel well slightly back. With larger tires you notice where it will contact the body first on the backside of the fender if fully stuffed. If I was able to push the axle forward ~.5-1" it should center nicely and allow for better clearance.

You have a point on $ here. The base justification of this post is to not just throw money if other options are fine.
I for some reason was thinking centered side to side. Duhhhhh.

The response above i think is the correct solution. You have to have custom leaves made with the pin offset the amount you want to move the axle forward or back.

If you are using a lift block, a custom block can be made where the pin is offset to move the axle forward or back. As mentioned above stay away from large lift block.




Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
 

nitro_rat

Lunchbox Lockers
Sky's Off Road Design makes some offset plates that will allow you to relocate your axle forward or back on your existing (or any other) springs.
 

smlobx

Wanderer
When I built my F-350 out I went with air bags primarily because the camper is not on the truck full time and I wanted the truck to ride as close to stock as possible when empty. We have used the air bags to level the truck with the camper on it and it has worked amazingly well. We went to Alaska this summer and put several thousand miles of gravel washed out roads under her belt and everything worked great.
BTW, I installed Bilstein leveling springs and shocks to the front to level the truck when empty also.

97D4975E-9B84-40B6-987F-F90E299C61DF.jpeg
 

danjr

Member
Nice rig smlobx! Can you share what shower enclosure you have mounted between the fridge vents there? Looking into some options ourselves (I'm assuming thats what that is?)

I'll get some pics of ours up one day. Camper is off the truck right now getting a full go through, solar, some update appliances and other goodies. Also just got some new wheels and tires on the truck. Rig is coming along nicely. Excited to get her back together once everything is finished up in a month or two.
 
Last edited:

Skinhyfish

Observer
Hello All,

Seeking some advice from the forums.

We've got a 2013 Ford F350 CCSB SRW. Lots of aftermarket goodies including winch bumper, Icon 2.5" kit, 37's, 4.88 gears etc. I purchased the truck with the current suspension setup and am looking to make some changes to:
1-Address minor nose high rake when unloaded
2-Handle the weight of our 2010 Hallmark Guanella
3-possibly recenter rear axle inside of wheel well to better clear the 37's during articulation (minor issue and not a driving consideration)

I've weighed the truck as follows:
Unloaded: ~7900lbs 4520F/3380R
Fully loaded: ~10640 5020F/5620R (this may get another 400ish lbs on the hitch from some storage boxes I'm rigging up)

I've also taken measurements: to fender wheel on center with the hubs and find that the truck is just slightly higher in the front (~0.5") when unloaded. When the camper is loaded the rear of the truck drops roughly 2".

I did have some Timbren SAS's on, but have since removed. This did prevent about an inch of drop and likely helped with stability, but wasn't getting much suspension travel-translating to a harsh ride offroad. Driving the fully loaded truck without the timbrens the ride seems better. Truck does contact overloads at times-no harsh bumps but its a bit noisy as they engage and disengage.

Truck will likely be loaded with the camper roughly 90-95% of the time. We live in CO and are out in the mountains every weekend regardless of the season.

Options I'm considering:
Option 1: Add a 6-7" block in the rear (replacing factory 4" block) and accounting for drop of rear suspension when loaded-should net a level rig when loaded and a 2-3" rake when unloaded ~$300
Option 2: Add a 5" block in the rear (replacing factory 4" block) should level the rig when unloaded, and add Air Springs (leaning towards Hellwig Big Wigs from what I've read) ~$1000
Option 3: Go with an aftermarket progressive leaf pack providing significantly better unloaded ride at unloaded level height and add Air Springs ~$1800
Option 4: Go with an aftermarket progressive leaf pack built for the fully loaded truck ~$1300

Option 1 is a set it and forget it option-never worry about the air springs, etc. Cheapest option. Unloaded ride comfort not the best
Option 2 adds complication of air bags, but could be a better route for being able to level on off center load, and leveling the truck at campsites
Option 3 is the most expensive route but would likely make for the perfect ride condition
Option 4 might ride pretty rough when unloaded, but I'm not sure if it would still ride better than the factory non progressive springs

Help is greatly appreciated on making sense of these options. I only want to do this once. Thanks!

I can tell you enough about PMF suspension parts. I just upgraded my control arms with their 3 link, Custom blocks better for off road, Draglink, track bar and 2.5 fox shocks. It is a solid offroad truck now. This is Zach, I am also in CO. I think we chatted on phone about my fltbed setup. feel free to call back and can give you some ideas if you want.

Zach
 

danjr

Member
I can tell you enough about PMF suspension parts. I just upgraded my control arms with their 3 link, Custom blocks better for off road, Draglink, track bar and 2.5 fox shocks. It is a solid offroad truck now. This is Zach, I am also in CO. I think we chatted on phone about my fltbed setup. feel free to call back and can give you some ideas if you want.

Zach

Great to hear from you again Zach! I'm putting in a call to Deaver today to see lead times, costs, etc. If I don't go that route PMF is definitely the route I'll go for their custom rear blocks as I can get whatever height I'm after in .5" increments, and will allow for repositioning of the axle forward. Seem to be good quality stuff. Front end is dialed in well, just figuring out ride height and weight.

How's your box build out coming? Excited to see some pics when it's done!
 

danjr

Member
X2 for the PMF suspension, I'm using a set of their rear blocks that are made for airbags, great quality products!

Definitely had my eye on this option as well. If I go airbags though I think I'll run the Hellwig Big Wig's, which look like they may not work with the PMF blocks made for the airbags. Their plates look to be sized for the Firestone/Airride bags, whereas the Big Wigs are much larger and already attach to the axle. I'll put in a call to PMF most likely to confirm on this point.
 

quickfarms

Adventurer
Where are you located?

Custom springs are the way to go

Airbags would be a good option to compensate for the camper weight. When the camper is not on the truck you only run about 5psi in the bags
 

danjr

Member
Update: after hearing pricing and timeline at Deaver I placed an order for 6" PMF rear blocks with air bag tangs, 3/4" ubolts, and Hellwig Big Wig Airbags. Hoping everything matches up and nets me where I want to be. Should provide 2.25" lift unloaded, and I'll probably let the camper settle in the full 2 inch, then lift back up around .75-1" with airbags. I think that'll provide a nice balance of leveling and ride comfort loaded. If I start using the truck more unloaded than I do now, I'll probably swap springs out for F250 or aftermarket springs for better ride comfort, and use bags to help compensate for loaded. For now, I like knowing I'm not dependent upon the bags to carry the load.
 

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