I Leak Oil
Expedition Leader
Unfortunately pictures were limited on the Diff install because I did it all on my own
No worries Matt, there will be future opportunities!
Expedition Portal: The Land Rover 109 IIA Build
- Thread starter MattScott
- Start date
No worries Matt, there will be future opportunities!
Antichrist
Expedition Leader
Matt, I recommend that you get new rubber pads for your brake and clutch pedals. Certain boot tread and mud combinations can make those metal nubs just a tad exciting. Add some ice to the equation in the winter and your foot slipping off can make for a wild ride.
MattScott
Approved Vendor
After all of the work I did to Ralph this week - I knew it was time to do the vehicles first extended all dirt trip. Being that overly technical terrain isn't really what this car is meant for - we decided to run the Senator Highway.
Senator Highway is a trail that runs from Prescott, to just south of Crown King, AZ. It can be rough in some spots, but it isn't technical at all. However, during the winter, the switchbacks and steep inclines can present a problem to some people - it's best to keep full attention on the trail. This being said, I ran the entire trail in 2WD, but the other vehicle I was with did have to use 4WD a few times, I'll attribute that to the fact he was driving a huge F250 with bald tires and not much trail experience with the vehicle.
It's really the perfect trail for the 109, it was a lot of fun. Total mileage from Prescott is around 35 miles depending where you consider the start at.
The first half of the trail to Crown King was fairly snowy, and icy. It kept you on your toes.
I think this trail could become really technical and fun during a snowstorm.
There's a camp spot that overlooks this.
The closer you get to Crown King, the further south you go, and you lose some elevation, so the snow goes away.
Unfortunately you trade snow and ice for rocks.
The vehicle turned 89,000 on this trip!
Here's Eli in his F250 - A large truck, a bit tight around some of the switchbacks, but he made it just fine.
That tire thinks it's photogenic.
The closer you get to Crown King the more rough the trail will become.
Once you get to Crown King, there's a 'Saloon' that serves decent food and cold drinks - remember that Crown King isn't the terminus of the trail, you're still 20-30 miles from pavement.
A big thanks to James Rider who navigated and took these images!
Senator Highway is a trail that runs from Prescott, to just south of Crown King, AZ. It can be rough in some spots, but it isn't technical at all. However, during the winter, the switchbacks and steep inclines can present a problem to some people - it's best to keep full attention on the trail. This being said, I ran the entire trail in 2WD, but the other vehicle I was with did have to use 4WD a few times, I'll attribute that to the fact he was driving a huge F250 with bald tires and not much trail experience with the vehicle.
It's really the perfect trail for the 109, it was a lot of fun. Total mileage from Prescott is around 35 miles depending where you consider the start at.
The first half of the trail to Crown King was fairly snowy, and icy. It kept you on your toes.
I think this trail could become really technical and fun during a snowstorm.
There's a camp spot that overlooks this.
The closer you get to Crown King, the further south you go, and you lose some elevation, so the snow goes away.
Unfortunately you trade snow and ice for rocks.
The vehicle turned 89,000 on this trip!
Here's Eli in his F250 - A large truck, a bit tight around some of the switchbacks, but he made it just fine.
That tire thinks it's photogenic.
The closer you get to Crown King the more rough the trail will become.
Once you get to Crown King, there's a 'Saloon' that serves decent food and cold drinks - remember that Crown King isn't the terminus of the trail, you're still 20-30 miles from pavement.
A big thanks to James Rider who navigated and took these images!
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Antichrist
Expedition Leader
Yes
If you want the whole IIa owners manual, if you don't have one, you can get it here: http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/manuals/2a_owners_manual.pdf
If you want a hard copy, this is about the cheapest I've found it short of a boot sale in the UK.
http://tinyurl.com/IIaOnwersManual
I've always run dino 10W40, 15W40 or 20W50, depending on the time of year and what was available.
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Antichrist
Expedition Leader
Yeah, the one from the SIII shop manual is more detailed. The one I posted is old enough to include the Rover limited slip diff. :Wow1:
Antichrist
Expedition Leader
You probably have the short canister. The long filters are really hard to find. I don't think WIX or Hastings either one makes them anymore.
MattScott
Approved Vendor
Yep, short canister was late IIA and III.
Canol 109
Observer
Coming in a little late on this thread. Looks like you have a really nice rig there.
As an aside...I was one of the group that did the Canol Trail in the Yukon/NWT back in 2009. I did it with my son, in a 1984 Series 3 109...completely stock, other than a petronix pointless conversion to my Ducillier Dizzy (best mod I ever did). Fitted it and forgot about it. There is really no difference between the Ducillier and Lucas Dizzies when it comes to water...none of them like it. However saying that, lots of dielectric grease works wonders. I crossed innumerable streams, drove up and down rivers and never once had a problem with the electrics. Thats my rig in the front on the cover of the OJ.
I did add an additional under the seat gas tank, in addition to a rebuild of the standard rear tank. The engine was the venerable old 2.25 5main bearing engine and although not the quietest motor out there was fine...average speed on the Highway up from Vancouver was around 100kmh/60mph...on the flats...hills are another thing altogether, but with the Fairey this will help considerably. The Oil Bath filter is actually a handy bit of kit. It sits very high on the truck, eliminates any dust, dirt, crud and even prevents water from getting sucked into the engine. Just make sure you don't overfill it as doing so will affect engine performance. I had an aftermarket Webber that worked fine...with the fuel cut-off solenoid to eliminate run-on. Can't comment on the Rochester but have heard good things about them as well.
One difference between mine and yours is that mine being an x-MoD truck, it had the Salisbury rear diff, with the 24 splines...very strong.
The safari top that you have will be very appreciated in the heat...how do I know...mine didn't and it can get very...very hot inside. If you can get your hands on a transmission tunnel cover/sound deaden-er...that alone makes a huge difference.
My advice is to stay original...I had drums all around and when properly set up worked great. When you are wading...just run a bit on the brakes to dry them up afterwards...and yes use the wading plug. The true value and driving pleasure of these old rigs is the originality of them...don't put a chevy 6 in it...if you really need more grunt, find a 200Tdi, and pop that in...desirable and better fuel economy.
After the Canol trip, I ended up buying a Defender with a 300Tdi, but just last fall ended up with two 1955 series 1's that I am rebuilding...seems to be a little addictive me thinks.
I also used Rotella 15w40
Best wishes with the build.
As an aside...I was one of the group that did the Canol Trail in the Yukon/NWT back in 2009. I did it with my son, in a 1984 Series 3 109...completely stock, other than a petronix pointless conversion to my Ducillier Dizzy (best mod I ever did). Fitted it and forgot about it. There is really no difference between the Ducillier and Lucas Dizzies when it comes to water...none of them like it. However saying that, lots of dielectric grease works wonders. I crossed innumerable streams, drove up and down rivers and never once had a problem with the electrics. Thats my rig in the front on the cover of the OJ.
I did add an additional under the seat gas tank, in addition to a rebuild of the standard rear tank. The engine was the venerable old 2.25 5main bearing engine and although not the quietest motor out there was fine...average speed on the Highway up from Vancouver was around 100kmh/60mph...on the flats...hills are another thing altogether, but with the Fairey this will help considerably. The Oil Bath filter is actually a handy bit of kit. It sits very high on the truck, eliminates any dust, dirt, crud and even prevents water from getting sucked into the engine. Just make sure you don't overfill it as doing so will affect engine performance. I had an aftermarket Webber that worked fine...with the fuel cut-off solenoid to eliminate run-on. Can't comment on the Rochester but have heard good things about them as well.
One difference between mine and yours is that mine being an x-MoD truck, it had the Salisbury rear diff, with the 24 splines...very strong.
The safari top that you have will be very appreciated in the heat...how do I know...mine didn't and it can get very...very hot inside. If you can get your hands on a transmission tunnel cover/sound deaden-er...that alone makes a huge difference.
My advice is to stay original...I had drums all around and when properly set up worked great. When you are wading...just run a bit on the brakes to dry them up afterwards...and yes use the wading plug. The true value and driving pleasure of these old rigs is the originality of them...don't put a chevy 6 in it...if you really need more grunt, find a 200Tdi, and pop that in...desirable and better fuel economy.
After the Canol trip, I ended up buying a Defender with a 300Tdi, but just last fall ended up with two 1955 series 1's that I am rebuilding...seems to be a little addictive me thinks.
I also used Rotella 15w40
Best wishes with the build.
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I Leak Oil
Expedition Leader
Matt, if you pick up a spin on oil filter adaptor or one from a 2.5L rover then just about every parts store in North America, if not he world, will have a filter you can use. Plus you won't have to use that 10w40 scented deodorant!:ylsmoke:
Antichrist
Expedition Leader
Yeah, but some people, like me, retrofit the long canisters. They're the same except for length.
It's a "standard" option. You don't need an additional fuel pump, you just have a 3-way valve mounted to the front of the seat base to switch from the main to auxiliary tank. Or a 4-way valve if you have two under seat tanks.
You can have a separate fuel gauge for each tank, or use the Rover MoD setup that switches the gauge circuit also.
You fill them by sliding out the panel under the seat.
I've always wondered about the comments lousy 109 brakes. When kept clean of oil and properly adjusted I've never had problems with my 109 brakes. Even when I lived in Vermont I wasn't concerned about using a road that was steep enough up to a stop sign that many locals avoided it if they could. Granted the 6yl fronts are larger, so maybe that's why.
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Canol 109
Observer
I actually picked up a Fuel Selector Switch & Solenoid changeover that I mounted under the seat box close to the spare tank. It had a switch that I mounted on the dash, which gave me instantaneous switching between the tanks. You could go with the standard switchover tap, but these are prone to the occasional leaking due to their age.
The standard oil filter is yes...a bit of a pain to change, however the capacity of the original is a lot larger than a canister type. I often thought of switching to a spin on as well, but stuck with the original. If it worked well on S1, S2, S2A so why change it? Most Rover repair shops have them in stock.