Expedition Portal: The Land Rover 109 IIA Build

[Rexsname]

I have an awning on my Tacoma, you may have noticed it is removed at the moment. Here in Arizona shade is really important. If you haven't suffered from a heat related illness, trust me, you dont want to. The ability to get out of the direct sun is just great. I highly reccomend getting one.

REX

 

[LR Max]

No, but I've heavily considered buying a pair of roof bars and using those to attach a simple awning. Of course you can go all out and buy a baller one.

If that isn't an option for you, maybe you could look at the current offerings for Defender 110s since it will most likely bolt up to the 109.

 

[Antichrist]

Anyone who wants to learn to drive off road should start in a series rover or early CJ. No p.s., low power, poor brakes....

Or, as in the case of my first Rover, my '62, almost no brakes at all. It was 100% off road in the mtn's of Virginia. Fun times. LOL

 

[MattScott]

Bad news bears.

What I thought was a rear end issue is turning out to be an issue with the........ rear end!

I knew it was going to need a new one, but apparently the previous owner had forgotten to put ANY! gear oil in it. I should have checked this in my progressive baseline and I didn't - now I pay the consequences!

 

[Redline]

Bummer Matt, sorry to hear that.

Will this help speed up an upgrade?

 

[LR Max]

Please elaborate, how bad is bad? Like, spider gears through the housing bad or "I put oil in it and its fine now" bad?

 

[JSBriggs]

A new 3rd member is fairly easy to come by and is a pretty simple job. Or you can look at it as a good opportunity to put a Salisbury axle in there.

-Jeff

 

[MattScott]

Bummer Matt, sorry to hear that.

Will this help speed up an upgrade?

I'd love to put an upgrade in their, but unfortunately it's just not in my budget, I believe I've sourced a factory third member in good condition!

 

[Yorker]

Yep. Of course, I forgot to mention that Disco 3rd members have 3.54 gears, and you'll have to weld on a drain plug to the housing. You can swap your Series gearset over to the Disco 3rd member with an ARB spacer ring, but I would just go with a new gearset to get the pattern right.

I think GBR makes a 4.75 R&P that don't require the spacer ring. Also IIRC you need different bearings or races when swapping coiler 3rd to leaf sprung trucks. Ashcroft or someone has all the info on their website.

 

[AFSOC]

I'd love to put an upgrade in their, but unfortunately it's just not in my budget, I believe I've sourced a factory third member in good condition!

Easy to Arm Chair Quarterback when it isn't my money but are you really sure you want to sink money into the same third? It's like replacing a blown Jeep Dana 35 with the same. Remember the ExPo Mantra, "Quality equipment to start with is most often cheaper in the long run." With a Series it is better to eliminate as many ticking time bombs as possible. Get a bombproof rear end...this will eliminate one of the things that that'll have you stopped on the roadside.

 

[blue bomber]

Easy to Arm Chair Quarterback when it isn't my money but are you really sure you want to sink money into the same third? It's like replacing a blown Jeep Dana 35 with the same. Remember the ExPo Mantra, "Quality equipment to start with is most often cheaper in the long run." With a Series it is better to eliminate as many ticking time bombs as possible. Get a bombproof rear end...this will eliminate one of the things that that'll have you stopped on the roadside.

This is the truth. Use a trutrac and good shafts. A $ 900.00 fix and it's done. A bolt in proposition.

 

[MattScott]

Easy to Arm Chair Quarterback when it isn't my money but are you really sure you want to sink money into the same third? It's like replacing a blown Jeep Dana 35 with the same. Remember the ExPo Mantra, "Quality equipment to start with is most often cheaper in the long run." With a Series it is better to eliminate as many ticking time bombs as possible. Get a bombproof rear end...this will eliminate one of the things that that'll have you stopped on the roadside.

My own rear end drove for at least 300 miles since I've owned the vehicle with no lubrication, and who knows how many miles with the previous owner, the same rear end has also powered some of the most adventurous expeditions the world has ever known; I'd call that quality equipment.

An upgrade is an idea that will happen further into the future. Right now it's $200 for a new third member, ready to bolt in and go.

I think there's other things I should be spending the money on before I look at a locking rear end.

 

[MattScott]

For the record, if I was to upgrade down the road, It would likely be to a factory salisbury unit from a SIII. Perhaps with an ARB,

 

[James86004]

Congrats on the purchase! Driving a SIIA like you intend to will make you a better driver in so many ways. It makes you patient, yours ears become attuned to the slightest change in noise, you learn to stop far enough back from traffic lights so you can see them, shifting gears becomes much more deliberate, you abhor tailgating, and you learn how much changes in temperature, air pressure, and humidity affect engine power. Mud tires really do have more rolling resistance than all-terrains, and concrete and asphalt also add different amounts of drag. You will find roads that you thought were level really have a slight incline. I think anyone who gets more than 6 points on their driver's license should only be allowed to drive a Series truck. Mine turned me from a speed demon to a stop-and-smell-the-roses driver. The effect on other folks is wonderful, lots of waves, lots of conversations at the filling station, and people actually let you merge.

We have the six-cylinder and a lot more weight, so after our second rear axle breakage, we put a Salisbury in ours (thanks Keith at the company formerly known as RoverTracks for contributing lots of advice and parts). When I had the transmission tunnel out I put sound insulation on the bottom side of it - it made a huge difference in the noise. If I ever take the seat box out I will do the same to the bottom of it. Make sure all the holes in the firewall and floor and seatbox are plugged up - it is amazing how much noise and heat can come through even a 1/4" hole. If I had a four cylinder like you I would seriously consider this for further insulation:

http://www.exmoortrim.co.uk/catalog...8-series-moulded-matting-system.html?sef=hcfp

Pertronix electronic ignition is a wonderful product.

 

[blue bomber]

The trutrac is a limited slip. Probably all you need. A salisbury version available.