Embarrassingly basic question

kwill

Observer
I'm making some basic modifications to a 2014 4runner in preparation for traveling/camping and eventually driving to Alaska. Looking at the information in this forum is intimidating! I recently found a new Viair 480 compressor for 1/2 price and mounted it under the hood. (This thing is a beast!) I also plan to add some driving lights (maybe a light bar) and I'm considering some flood/work lights on the back of the vehicle. Right now I just have the hot wire from the compressor run over to the battery with a simple switch and in-line fuse. However, once I add lights I'd like to run them from dash mounted switches and may as well add an interior switch for the compressor too. Is it worth getting an additional fuse box, e.g. a Bussmann or Blue Sea? Or, should I just stick with in-line fuses and go directly to the in-cab switches? I like the space shuttle look of a big row of interior switches but that's overkill for me. I know this is really basic stuff but it's new to me and, needless to say, I don't want to fry anything. Thanks in advance for any advice.
 

SDDiver5

Expedition Leader
Go BlueSea Fuse box or something similar. Even if you don't use all the ports you still have the convenience of having them. And it will look much much cleaner under the hood and easier to work on.
 

Stitebunny

Adventurer
I agree. I like to set up another dedicated power distribution/fuse box and run accessories from that. Makes things cleaner and you can label circuits also for easier reference in the future.
 

Ducky's Dad

Explorer
Never use inline fuses if you can avoid it. They are a pain to find and check unless you remember exactly where they are. Bussman makes some distribution blocks that include relays and fuses on a single block. I just got a couple for a project and they look simple but are a big pain to wire, partially because they require a specific wire termination, in this case a Delphi 280, and won't work with anything else. But, they are compact and waterproof and make for a clean installation once you figure it out. I like Blue Sea stuff a lot, and Marinco (part of the same conglomerate that owns Blue Sea) also makes good stuff. Whatever you do, keep the option open for more circuits than you think you'll need, because you will add stuff later. Guaranteed.
 

GR8ADV

Explorer
Just a reminder that if you are going to Alaska in June or July you will need any of those lights. Just sayin.
 

kwill

Observer
OK, thanks all for the help. I think I'll try the Blue Sea box and see if I can figure out the connections. It seems to me that 12V systems are so conceptually simple, yet they get complex fairly quickly, at least to me (the dumb kid in the back row).
 

AaronK

Explorer
Here is a link to one of the Bussman distribution blocks. Five relays, ten fuses, 80 amp capacity per block, 30 amps per circuit (bridgeable to 40 amps per circuit). They make another one that is about twice this size, ten relays and (I think) a 200 amp capacity.
http://www.connectorconcepts.com/bu15rtinstre.html
Does this require additional connectors to use? Description isn't clear but it looks like it has a wire bundle coming out the back? But then it references the aforementioned Delphi 280 connector...

Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using Tapatalk
 

allyncooper

Observer
Most definitely use a fuse block to keep things organized. And as already stated get one bigger than you currently require because you will have the capacity for future circuits.
 

Ducky's Dad

Explorer
Does this require additional connectors to use?
Yes, you need to order the correct relays and connectors. The distributor tells me that you can use only Delphi 280 or the AMP clone of the Delphi 280 for your wire terminations. Those connectors use a "special" crimper that none of the tool suppliers or GM dealers seem to know anything about, but it looks pretty simple to crimp. Distributor tells me that solder is a good idea with these after crimping. There are two bus studs on the back of the block and you can bridge multiple blocks across a single bus bar. The wires coming out of the back will be the bundle of leads plugged into the back of the block. They also sell a nice standoff mount for these to provide clearance for the wires on the back. Fuses are standard mini-blades, available at any parts store.
 

AFBronco235

Crew Chief
One thing that I've found helps is to lay out a wiring diagram. It helps to show how everything is connected. It doesn't show how long wires are, but it does help you to keep track of things. You should also be adding in relays, which a switches that allow you to use a low amp switch to turn on and off a large amp accessory, like lights, compressors or anything else you may have.

To get the best connection, everything you crimp should be soldered and then shrink tubing applied over that to prevent corrosion.

If you plan on having an aux battery, don't run your accessories off that. Connect everything to the main battery so you can still use the aux one for emergencies. That goes for a winch too, if you have it.
 

kwill

Observer
I'm thinking about one of these. It looks like it will do everything a sPOD will but at less than 1/3 the price. And, it should prevent me from doing something stupid with fuses, relays, switches, etc. Has anyone used one of these prewired Bussmann boxes?
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Ducky's Dad

Explorer
Has anyone used one of these prewired Bussmann boxes?
That's the one I have been talking about, 15303-x. The suffix denotes the specific version. I just got two of them but have not wired them yet because they turned out to be be just a bit bigger than I had anticipated and I can't fit two of them side-by-side in the spot I had planned.
 

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