El Burro - 1989 4Runner Build

TheCascadeKid

Observer
My original 3.4 donor had 325k on it when I swapped it in. The "new" 3.4 I'm prepping now has ~50k. Should be finishing it up to drop in this weekend, but I've said that before :)
 

collkid

New member
My original 3.4 donor had 325k on it when I swapped it in. The "new" 3.4 I'm prepping now has ~50k. Should be finishing it up to drop in this weekend, but I've said that before :)

Whew! Then yes, I agree with your decision to do another engine swap. 325k is A TON, especially if you're going to use it the way you want to! :)
 

TheCascadeKid

Observer
I am following the strict rule of 1 step forward 2 steps back lately. I managed to spin a Flywheel bolt and rip out the threads in the crankshaft of the new engine (in a rush and used the short version meant for an automatic). After chasing the threads one still wouldn't hold torque. I successfully did a practice Helicoil on my old engine but buggerd the one in the new engine. Sigh.

After a few self loathing hours I got a got a new crankshaft on order. This last weekend I was able to wrap up the bottom end re-build. Just have to re-install the timing belt, oil pick up, and oil pan to be back where I started! On the plus side I got to inspect all the cylinder walls, and they look great!

""​

 
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TheCascadeKid

Observer
Thanks, @wild_Goose. Got around to some re-assembly this weekend and dropped the engine back in. I probably have a few more hours of buttoning accessories back up before I turn the key, but it feels great to have made it back to this point.


 
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TheCascadeKid

Observer
Finally got the swap all tucked away this weekend and ran into a clutch issue. I can row through the gears with no resistance with the truck turned off. Once on I can't put it into gear. I can start in gear with with the clutch depressed or in neutral without lurching forward. Reverse grinds If I try to go from neutral but again can start with the transmission in reverse and clutch depressed, let out the clutch and go. If I start in gear and clutch in I can go forward and even shift.

I didn't have any issues with shifting before the new JDM 3.4 went in (worked fine with the last 3.4). I did put in a new OEM flywheel from Marlin Crawler and a pressure plate from the stealer-ship. Clutch master cylinder is bled. Pedal free play is set to the FSM and I have confirmed the pedal bracket is not cracked.

I searched around when putting the clutch disk back in and everything I found said to put the side with the springs protruding out towards the transmission. Flatter side towards the flywheel. That is how I installed it. However the FSM shows the 3.4 being installed the other way. Was I correct in following the instructions for the 3.0? Any other ideas as to what I might be dealing with?


Clutch FSM.png
 
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battleaxe

Captain Obvious
Finally got the swap all tucked away this weekend and ran into a clutch issue. I can row through the gears with no resistance with the truck turned off. Once on I can't put it into gear. I can start in gear with with the clutch depressed or in neutral without lurching forward. Reverse grinds If I try to go from neutral but again can start with the transmission in reverse and clutch depressed, let out the clutch and go. If I start in gear and clutch in I can go forward and even shift.

I didn't have any issues with shifting before the new JDM 3.4 went in (worked fine with the last 3.4). I did put in a new OEM flywheel from Marlin Crawler and a pressure plate from the stealer-ship. Clutch master cylinder is bled. Pedal free play is set to the FSM and I have confirmed the pedal bracket is not cracked.

I searched around when putting in the clutch disk back in and everything I found said to put the side with the springs protruding out towards the transmission. Flatter side towards the flywheel. That is how I installed it. However the FSM shows the 3.4 being installed the other way. Was I correct in following the instructions for the 3.0? Any other ideas as to what I might be dealing with?

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/3-4-v6-clutch-orientation-important.468641/

You might be angry...
 

TheCascadeKid

Observer
Thanks, Battleaxe. I came across that thread as well. For some reason I was thinking you put it in like the 3.0 to interface with the 3.0 throw out bearing which is required to be used vs. the 3.4 throw out .

I picked up a transmission jack yesterday and I'll start pulling it this evening to get it flipped around. I hope to have it completed before the long weekend so I can put a few miles on it to break in the bottom end rebuild.
 

TheCascadeKid

Observer
I made some good progress pulling the transmission after work. Got the center console, drive shafts, cross member, and all the electrical connections removed. Tomorrow I'll pull the shifters, slave cylinder, and bell housing bolts.

On the plus side I've had FROR twin sticks stuck in my "goodies drawer" for over a year. This will be the perfect time to install them.




 

TheCascadeKid

Observer
I seem to be in a constant state of waiting for parts, and unfortunately it's usually due to my own ineptitude. Turns out the backwards clutch plate reeked more havoc than I expected. It bottomed the friction disk out on the input shaft beyond the spline section and mauled it enough that I had do some work with a file to get the throw out bearing off. Which in turn had a melted inner race from the heat of the metal to metal contact.

Since most of my long weekend was planned to work on the truck anyways, I decided to break into my part stock pile (mind you this has been growing for close to three years now) and do some of the work I had slated for after the full mechanical shakedown...round 2. First task will be fresh suspension.

Transmission out waiting for parts


The goody pile


Cleaning up the front end


Dropped the rear axle

 
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TheCascadeKid

Observer
Thanks, Owyheerat. At this rate I should have a new rig in no time. I started pulling the rear suspension in evenings after work this week. After a few failed attempts with the 1/2" impact I pulled out the zip disk and made some progress on the rear leafs. Just have the pesky one guarded by the fuel tank left to go. I also found the mechanism for lowering my spare was rusted beyond repair, so it got the cut off wheel treatment as well. Glad I sorted that out before needing it on the trail.

 

TheCascadeKid

Observer
Prepping My U-Bolt flip Kit For Bump Stops


Rear Axle Hung


Bump Stops Installed and U-Bolts Trimmed


Now On To The Front!
 
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