Dual Battery System Management Recommendations?

flyingwil

Supporting Sponsor - Sierra Expeditions
We are currently testing a newer system to the US market, but known around the world that is tried and true in all terrains and environments. It's 100% waterproof, Vibration proof, sealed, and from what rumor have, National Luna is an attempt at copying (no solid proof). The majority of the ones in the US are currently going to the military and armored vehicle manufacturers. I'm on my third battery management system for my truck, and this will be numero 4. Hoping this one is the all its cracked up to be...
 

TrailTrackers

Observer
We are currently testing a newer system to the US market, but known around the world that is tried and true in all terrains and environments. It's 100% waterproof, Vibration proof, sealed, and from what rumor have, National Luna is an attempt at copying (no solid proof). The majority of the ones in the US are currently going to the military and armored vehicle manufacturers. I'm on my third battery management system for my truck, and this will be numero 4. Hoping this one is the all its cracked up to be...
So what is it and let's see some pics.
 
You're in San Diego...give us a call and swing by for a nickel-tour. You can report the board your findings.

Scott
858.720.1339

If you have a few minutes, I'm wondering if you would please do me a favor. Please review their Installation Manual and let me know what you think. Specifically the section titled: Post Installation Checkout. Here is an excerpt of those instructions:

Using your digital multimeter, perform the following checks:
1. Read the DC voltage from the anode to ground. This should reflect the
DC voltage of the alternator.
2. Read the DC voltage from the cathode “A” to ground. This should reflect
the DC voltage of the MAIN battery.
3. Read the DC voltage from the cathode “B” to ground. This should reflect
the DC voltage of the AUXILIARY battery.

4. With one probe on the anode and one probe on one cathode, the multimeter will reflect the difference between these two points and should reflect less than 0.05 volts. If greater, shut the vehicle down and call support. There should never be more than 0.05 volts drop between the
anode and cathode blades at maximum rated current.


Note that I've highlighted #4 because I think that's where you indicate your disbelief right? Does this test seem way off the planet to you? And if it is as this company claims, then would you say this Dual Rectifier would be worth it as far as the job we are wanting it to do? I always appreciate some real world advice from somebody who knows what they are talking about and can back it up with experience. I'm no electrical engineer, that's for sure, and you sound like you could offer some great, real world advice.

I was planning to call the company tomorrow afternoon and listen to him talk a bit about his product, so I'm hoping that you see this and can respond prior to that. Thanks in advance for any additional insight you have time to give.
 

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TrailTrackers

Observer
Coming soon.
If this sounds pushy I apologize, but I've been holding off on the Power Gate until I see some pics and hear about your new system. I hate to lock myself into any expensive system until I get the scoop on everything else.

Please, please, please hurry. :bike_rider:
 

TrailTrackers

Observer
Well, I ordered the dual battery tray from Benchmark and it should be here by Wed. next week. I'll hope to have it installed by the following weekend.

If flyingwil hasn't honored us with a description of his setup by the time I get the tray installed, I'll most likely just go with the PowerGate. I've waited about as long as I'm going to.
 

zidaro

Explorer
Easterbunny left a Powergate SR-200 on my doorstep today :)
Hope to have it in my new Tundra and powering my ARB Fridge for a 7day Saline Valley trip starting on the 15th. I'll do a writeup once i have a minute, gotta get it in my rig and go have fun first.
aaron

edit: Easter week weather in my area has put a SERIOUS halt to any wrenching that was gonna happen prior to this trip- shoveling snow instead :O
 
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dyogim

Explorer
Just wondering why I'm not seeing more setups as described here. I like the K.I.S.S method but, looking at an even simpler method is to just run a battery isolator. Connect the alternator to the isolater then the positive cables to the isolator. In reading sure powers setup, this will allow the use of one without draining the other. Also, when the engine is running, will charge both batteries as needed. Existing connections will run to the existing battery location. Everything else to the 2nd battery.

I've been trying to search on why this set-up is not used as much as the others. What are the cons?

For example: http://www.surepower.com/pdf/isolator1.pdf
 
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This "surepower" style is the oldest, cheapest, and most common, but with it comes a substantial voltage drop as current passes through it. This means that although you may have 14 .5 volts leaving your alternator, by the time it gets to your battery, you're down to 13.5 or so....your batteries never get completely charged up to the voltage regulation setpoint. You'll find this style of isolator at every marine and RV supply store on the planet, and they're made in China in high volume and sold by Surpower, Cole-Hersee, Vanner, Transpo, Summit, Jegg's.....pretty much everybody.

Just wondering why I'm not seeing more setups as described here. I like the K.I.S.S method but, looking at an even simpler method is to just run a battery isolator. Connect the alternator to the isolater then the positive cables to the isolator. In reading sure powers setup, this will allow the use of one without draining the other. Also, when the engine is running, will charge both batteries as needed. Existing connections will run to the existing battery location. Everything else to the 2nd battery.

I've been trying to search on why this set-up is not used as much as the others. What are the cons?

For example: http://www.surepower.com/pdf/isolator1.pdf
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
I think that the simple constant duty solenoid might be even older than high current diodes, but I echo the voltage drop issue. Tried it once a long time ago and wasn't happy. I'd rather have a marine combiner switch, a constant duty solenoid, or just wire them in parallel for the simplest system approach.
 

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