Drawer fridge for overlanding

Leirbag

New member
I have installed a Dometic CD-30 drawer fridge in my Toyota FJ Cruiser, and wanted to share the experience of installing and using it in case it helps others interested in doing the same type of thing. I put this in a sleeping platform/galley system I installed in the vehicle. You may see the description of that here: https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/galley-and-sleeping-platform-system.221283/

Most people that use fridges in their vehicles get large fridges of 50L or so. A fridge that big may be necessary for big familes or long trips. In my case, I do mostly solo trips or with other 2-3 people, and I did not want to take so much space in the vehicle for a giant fridge. Besides, through careful food planning and storage and if you don’t need to have lots of cold canned drinks that take a huge amount of space, a small fridge is ideal. The Dometic drawer fridge has a capacity of 30 liters, and to me that is enough.

In the galley system I have a pull out kitchen system with stove and storage on one side, and left an opening on the other side for the drawer fridge:

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The plan was to install the fridge in there and possibly a small drawer above it, but I will likely not do the extra drawer. Installing the fridge in there would have been trivial if I had taken the structure out of the trunk, mounted the fridge onto the frame, and put the entire frame with the fridge already mounted back in the trunk. But that would have taken two people (due to size, as it’s not really that heavy), but I was by myself and was impatient, so I decided to mount the fridge with the frame in place. This posed a problem because even though the fridge could easily slide in through the opening in the front, with the frame in place I no longer had the room to maneuver on either side to mount the brackets. That meant I had to mount the brackets on the fridge, but then I could no longer slide in from the front! Aaaargh!

Well, I disassembled the center/top frame to make room, and through some careful maneuvering I was able to lower the fridge with the brackets pre-mounted into position from above. But this posed a new challenge, because to bolt the four fridge mounts onto the frame I had very little space on either side, as you can see in these pictures taken from above, on either side:

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Getting my hand in there to reach the bolt with an allen wrench was not fun, but I managed. The fridge is solidly attached to the frame now, and it’s great.

From the front, it looks like this:

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In terms of using it, the fridge is great. What you see above it is half of the sleeping platform, but once deployed and with the mattress above you can barely hear the compressor when it comes on below. Also, the fridge is very efficient and obviously the compressor is not on all the time, and this is especially true at night when the ambient temperature is typically lower and thus the fridge rarely turns on to keep things cool during that time.

This also means it’s very efficient in terms of energy consumption. It only consumes 40 w/H, which means that on a 500w/H battery it could (theoretically) run for about 12 hours if the compressor was running all the time, which of course it doesn’t so the effective duration of the battery would be much longer.

Regarding build quality, I think it’s excellent. Everything works very well. The compressor in the back can be removed and installed on the side, or even somewhere else, affording excellent installation flexibility. I left it in the back as I designed the frame deep enough to hold the whole fridge and compressor that way, but if you want to consider a drawer fridge like this you have installation options. In terms of criticisms, in reality the only thing I would have done differently had I been the designer of this fridge is to put the thermostat somewhere else. Where they put it at first glance is very convenient, but in reality is wastes space all along the top part of the drawer on the right side, as you cannot put anything all the way to the top as it would bump with the thermostat box.

Leaving that aside, I got these modular plastic containers that fit in there very nicely, and stack very well. By using these things you can organize your food very rationally and efficiently, thus maximizing space. Obviouse this would change all the time depending on what you carry, but here’s an example:

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You can see there that the thermostat is on the way and what’s on the top left of the drawer in these photos could not be on the right. So, that’s wasted space. But, overall, I think the fridge is great and if you are good at arranging the food in the drawer you can actually pack quite a bit in there. Also, the fridge is more efficient the fuller it is, so you actually want to pack it as full as possible.

Lastly, regarding the space above, I don’t think I will install another drawer there for now, as I can use the space for a couple of collapsible wash basins:

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Well, that’s it! I love the setup and it works very well. If anyone has any questions on the installation or the fridge let me know.
 
Last edited:

gaap master

SE Expedition Society
Thanks very much for sharing. I’ve been thinking about that exact fridge for a while now.

My former setup in a 60 series Land Cruiser was an ARB 50 fridge mounted on ARB drawers. It was great, but that rig was purely for camping and trails, so the setup was permanently mounted.

The new rig is a 200 series which needs to be flexible for more varied usage...not just camping, but also family road trips, hauling, etc. So I was thinking about a platform and drawer fridge, very similar to your setup, but something not too cumbersome to install/remove as needed.
 

Leirbag

New member
A setup like mine would work quite well for your needs, then. The entire thing is easily removable (although you may need two people) as the frame just sits on the trunk floor, and it’s held in place with two turnbuckles attached to tie-down points in the back. I do not have the space to remove it after each overlanding trip so I leave it permanently there, but if I had the space in the garage it would take 5 minutes to remove the whole thing.
 

Leirbag

New member
I thought it would be a good idea to post an update.

I got a Rockpals 500W power station to use in overlanding trips. The main use case is to power the Dometic CD30 drawer fridge I described above, but the power station is also used to charge a tablet, a phone and potentially another starter battery.

I tested the unit’s 110V outlets by plugging in a fan and a laptop’s power supply, and that worked just fine. The unit has a pure sine wave inverter, which means it outputs clean power through the 110V ports. This is important for some sensitive devices such as laptops or CPAP machines. I did not approach the maximum allowed power draw (500W), but I know this unit has electronics to prevent problems with overdrawing power or overcharging so it will likely cut off if reached.

I also tested the two USB A and the USB C outlets to charge tablets in different configurations (I.e. 1 USB A and the C, or two As) and it worked fine.

I connected the power station to the car’s 12V outlet to charge it and it received the charge as expected. I did not have solar panels available to test the solar charge input, so I cannot say anything about how that would work at this time. The unit has a fan to keep it cool while it’s being charged, and it’s supposed to turn itself on as the temperature rises but in my experience it is turned on immediately every time as you plug it in to a 110V outlet. The unit has pass-through charging and it worked just fine as I plugged it in to the car’s 12V charge port while at the same time I used the unit’s 12V outlet to power the fridge. The display shows the power going in and out simultaneously.

I tested the 12V regulated output by plugging in the mini-fridge in the car. The refrigerator is rated at 40W/12V, well within this unit’s rated capabilities. And in fact it performed very well. The theoretical maximum amount of time it would power the fridge if it was running 100% of the time (which it isn’t as the thermostat turns the fridge off when it reaches the right temperature) is 10.7 hours.

I ran two tests: the first one was with the fridge empty inside my garage, so ambient temperature was relatively cool and steady, thermostat set half-way on the fridge. Started the test with the Rockpals at about 96% charge and let it run for 7 hours and it went down to 79% charge. I then ran a more realistic test by running the fridge with food inside in a semi-shaded outdoors environment. Ambient temperature during the day was 29°C/84.2°F and at night it dropped to about 18°C/64.4°F. Started with about 96% charge and it went all the way to 0% in about 27 hours, which is pretty good. For people who intend to use the power station for overlanding, if you charge it by driving a little every day or if you have solar panels, the unit should give you all the power you need indefinitely.
 

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