Down Comforters

[1000arms]

Ok, I am going to camp out of CDN 101 trailer. Tent set-up over it. No Roof Top Tent. I will have a queen size bed area. I don't want to use sleeping bags. I will put wool blankets over my sleeping pad for insulation on the bottom of bed. Also I am installing foam insulation board under my metal lid top of the trailer. Now I want to use a down comforter on top. On my next trip there will be temps in the low 30's at night. Where do I get a down comforter that is rated for those temperatures?

I suggest you consider multiple thin(ner) layers to sleep in. It is much easier to stay comfortable by putting-on/taking-off thin layers when sleeping than having to make a decision of cover-too-hot versus no-cover-too-cold (just like layering for hiking/skiing/...). Multiple thin covers also allow one to easily adjust for possible different preferences of two people under the same covers by putting an extra layer (or two) over just one person.

Even though you have a queen-sized bed-area, I suggest king-sized covers that allow everyone to stay underneath.

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A few comforters for the top, a few for the bottom (or enough of the wool blankets you mentioned), and you will likely be able to stay warm in the temperatures you mentioned, and, possibly far colder temperatures.

I suggest you use low cost synthetic comforters (maybe Amazon Basics purchased at low points in the price changes) that are easily washed in most washing machines.


If you really want down, you could get it, but, I think you would be better served by the easily washable, easily dry-able, easily replaced low-cost synthetic-comforters (and that you could rotate in use throughout your home).

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I've camped in high heat and high humidity, I've camped many times in the Maine and New Hampshire winters, I've camped in almost 50 of the 50 US states, and I've camped in other parts of the world. I've likely camped in colder weather, but the coldest that I know I've slept under the stars is -18F. I just don't generally bother with bringing a thermometer.

People sweat and exhale moisture. The humidity in the air can vary with weather, location, and altitude. Sleeping in a tightly sealed tent is different than sleeping under the stars.

People often seal up tents to keep out rain and hold in heat, but, doing so also traps the air, and the beginning moisture in that air is then added to by sweating and exhaling.

I like leaving tents/truck caps/windows/etc open for the fresh air and to minimize the condensation. Depending on the temperature, I often find condensation (or frost and frozen condensation) in the morning.

A loosely woven "Afghan blanket" can be useful for covering one's face in very cold camping. Some heat is held in while allowing good airflow.

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Insulating underneath is very important, especially if sleeping on the ground, and even though you will be sleeping off the ground in a tent placed on an insulated metal roof, I encourage you to constantly check the wool blankets and make sure to dry them as needed.

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A 64 oz Nalgene Widemouth Bottle (or two) for each male, along with baby wipes, can save getting out of a tent in the night/rain/snow/cold/insects to urinate. There are products made to allow a female to be able to make use of such a bottle as well. Bring a bottle of Pinesol for cleaning the Nalgene bottles.

 

[krick3tt]

Insulation under is very important as well as layers on top, as you say.
Ah yes, the smell of Pinesol can be rather invigorating. Rather than spend money for a container I use an old
olive jar, they have a tight fitting lid. Hate getting up in the middle of the night in the cold, rain, snow or whatever is out there.
I also use these vents in my window to alleviate condensation when sleeping in the back of the Rover, they are vented down to keep out the rain.

 

[F350joe]

I hate sleeping bags as well. I called Wiggy’s and ordered his -60 bag, full zip, extra long, with a hood, squared foot. I use it as a comforter, unzipped, most of the time. When in the 30s i zip up just a foot pocket. Any colder and I zip about 1/4 up and get in it with my head in the hood. With the Xped mega mat memory foam side up it is almost too warm, memory foam sleeps super hot. It is synthetic, can be machine washed and dried, life time warranty, light but very bulky. I have his comforter on my bed at home but it is not nearly as warm. Hope this helps, little different approach, but worth looking into. https://www.wiggys.com/sleeping-bags/hunter-antarctic-rectangular-sleeping-bag/

Comforter

Manufacturer of the finest sleeping bags and outdoor gear in the world. Nothing keeps you you warm & dry in cold, wet conditions like Wiggy's!

www.wiggys.com

 

[Hilldweller]

We use a couple of polypropylene fleece blankets and an old comforter.
Temp regulation, fleece-on/fleece-off.
Fleece works when wet too.
Costco blankets rock.

 

[4000lbsOfGoat]

Before we got our camper we spent years tent camping using an Ikea down comforter. We've also been using Ikea down comforters on our house bed for 15+ years. They are warm, durable and surprisingly inexpensive.

Given that the whole purpose of a tent is to keep you dry I never really worried about my down comforter failing me because it got wet. If that would happen I'd have bigger problems and I would go home...

 

[OllieChristopher]

We would be in a tent on top of trailer. Do u guys think the moisture would still be a problem with down ?

No not at all.

Correct.
like to see how long these guys last inside a car with a down comforter in S. Florida.

They will wake up like Chilli Back Ribs, lol.

Florida does not get cold enough to need down.

 

[billiebob]

Ok, I am going to camp out of CDN 101 trailer. Tent set-up over it. No Roof Top Tent. I will have a queen size bed area. I don't want to use sleeping bags. I will put wool blankets over my sleeping pad for insulation on the bottom of bed. Also I am installing foam insulation board under my metal lid top of the trailer. Now I want to use a down comforter on top. On my next trip there will be temps in the low 30's at night. Where do I get a down comforter that is rated for those temperatures?

layers, buy 2 comforters, or...... ratings are bull.... just buy more than 1. I use 3 sleeping bags, 1 under, 2 over, I pick how many layers I need. Cold winter nights, I sleep under all 3.

ps, altho down is fabulous, I use regular heavy sleeping bags since they tuck in better around the neck than down comforters. If you want down, you need down mummy bags in the winter.

Also, raise the mattress an inch or 2 off the floor. Air between the floor and the mattress will keep out the cold better than insulation. I use a full 8" mattress 1.5" off the floor, using the wood 1x4 box spring frame it came with.

When you insulate, you need to control vapour. The best way is with an air space.

 

[Roaddude]

Ok, I am going to camp out of CDN 101 trailer. Tent set-up over it. No Roof Top Tent. I will have a queen size bed area. I don't want to use sleeping bags. I will put wool blankets over my sleeping pad for insulation on the bottom of bed. Also I am installing foam insulation board under my metal lid top of the trailer. Now I want to use a down comforter on top. On my next trip there will be temps in the low 30's at night. Where do I get a down comforter that is rated for those temperatures?

.
I sleep in my tent with un-insulated single layer sides, in cold and below freezing weather all the time, with no heat, and am very comfortable. Cold weather camping is my favorite sleeping weather when adventuring. I wake up refreshed and excited about the day.

My set up is simple as can be. It's a rooftop tent and I've used it more than 600 nights out over a couple years. I live in the thing when on the road and depend on it. I've had both friends and family use my sleep system, too, in cold weather, to their amazement and great comfort.

Layers from bottom up...

Underneath me:
- The simple 3" foam mattress that came with the tent. Not great quality; easy to bottom out on with your hips if sleeping on your side.
- Fitted sheet
- Inexpensive comforter added for extra cushion and insulation from underneath. Makes a lot of difference in comfort.

Over me:
- Roomy sleeping bag liner. I tried sheets from home and other things, but have settled on the inexpensive Friendly Swede Sleeping Bag Liner. Very comfortable and not restrictive (I hate zipped up bags).
- Inexpensive Coleman Sleeping Bag unzipped and spread open over me. Not fancy at all, just a cheap $49 sleeping bag.
- Jungle Blanket(s) on top. I SWEAR by these things. These and the liner are what make the whole system work.

Details...
Liner:
- I camp off-grid a lot and for multiple weeks, often months, so like my liner because I can wash it when needed. It keeps my other bedding from getting funky. Stay out a long time, it becomes important.
- It's not restrictive at all, at 41"x 86," and is "machine-washable polyester with comfortable silk texture that is soft against your skin while also transporting away sweat and moist from your body."
- Has a pillow pocket and is reversible for use in left or right hand situations. Though I rarely use it in a bag, I do switch it from RTT to van, so like to reverse it for which side the longer opening is on.
- The liner is pocket sized when packed, so easy to take with me on overnights with canoe or bike.
- SO much easier to wash and hang dry in camp than it is to air out or wash sleeping bag or sheets. Dries wicked fast.
- Provides an extra air space for increased layering effect, too. Very comfortable in warm weather as your only cover at night.
- I now have two, so when I have company they can use the fresh one in the RTT and I can use mine in the van.

Jungle Blankets:
- 74" x 64" and packs up tiny in its own stuff bag to about 6"x6. Weighs only 1.56 lbs.
- I wish I had these when I was a kid hitchhiking around the country. They're a godsend for wrapping around yourself, kids, or company at a fire on cold nights; putting underneath yourself in a hammock no matter what the weather, and for just general use as an easy to use, super pack-able, inexpensive blanket. It's some sort of high-loft synthetic insulation and does a superior job.
- I keep one compressed and ready to go for bike and canoe overnights.
- As insulation on cold nights, they excel. Lofts back up nicely if just unpacked.

I have several and leave two or three in the RTT, dependent on oncoming weather. I judge how cold it was the night before by how many I spread over me through the night. A 3 Jungle Blanket Night means cold enough for freezing rain or snow. Always reminds me of the old country saying "It was a three dog night," when you got all the dogs up on the bed to keep you warm.

- At forty bucks apiece ($30 just a couple yrs ago), they are easily the best, and most versatile, investment in all-around cold weather sleeping comfort I've ever made.

Tips for Sleeping In Cold Weather:
- Ventilation. Whether sleeping in a ground tent or rooftop tent, allowing proper ventilation prevents/reduces condensation problems. I've never had to buy or use a condensation mat for my RTT like so many moan about or spend money on.
- TIP: When sleeping in your tent in cold or freezing weather, keep your end windows and entry door zipped down a bit to allow a cross flow of air up high, and over you in your tent. I'm plenty warm in my sleep system beneath the air flow. Proper venting allows excess moisture from your own exhalation out of the tent and reduces your bedding or covers from becoming wet.
- If sleeping in a well designed ground tent, like my OZTent RV-5 or Eureka Grand Manan 9, they are designed with vents in appropriate places to allow a number of venting options. Air in low and out high is great for hot weather. Air moving high across the top of your space is good for cold weather.
- Thinking you need to zip up your tent tight against the cold and restricting air movement is the enemy. You're warm in your bag; let the air above you move.
- I sleep in a base layer of clothing sometimes in freezing weather, but often find I'm shedding it through the night if I've set my sleep system right.

- Proper insulation against the cold from below and above, and proper air flow is the key.

Good luck with your setup.



Cold windy nights in the Chihuahuan Desert.


.

Roaddude - On the Road In North America - ROADDUDE

Roaddude - Traveling Photographer/Writer/Artist On the Road In North America. Gear, reviews, people, places, and culture.

roaddude.com

 

[dman93]

We camp quite a bit in the desert in winter where daytime temps are pleasant but nights can get cool. While we always bring sleeping bags, just in case, we lately have been using a “home store” (IKEA? Bed Bath and Beyond?) down comforter which works fine, though the cotton cover is loose and gets tangled ... maybe something sliperier, lighter (and easier to wash) would work better. My preference is to bring one comforter and layer my sleepwear. To me that seems more space efficient and versatile, especially if you’re sitting around after dark and it’s cold already. My wife might sleep in fleece pants and even her down jacket, while I’ll be a few layers lighter, under the same comforter. Works down to the mid-20’s F for us; lower than that we break out the bags.

 

[Grouseman]

TTT

 

[PlacidWaters]

I think you need at most 3 items for your bed, usually only two:

(1) An insulated mattress that needs no further pads over or under it: Exped Megamat LIte 12, minus 4 degrees F. https://www.campsaver.com/exped-meg..._campaign=shopping feed&utm_content=campsaver

These mattresses offer maximum comfort and warmth. Expensive, and worth it.

(2) 20F rectangular down sleeping bag from LL Bean, $239: https://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/120...14966-GN2&csp=a&attrValue_0=Blue/Indigo&pos=1

On cold nights, zip up the bottom about 15" to make a pocket for your feet. I recommend getting a sleeping bag with a full zipper because it can be used open as a quilt or closed in case of an emergency.

I believe one thing is indisputable, although quilt fans will try to argue this: On the coldest night, a sleeping bag with a full zipper is more reliable than a quilt of the same size and down weight. One way or another, you have to close up all possible air spaces. The easiest way to do that is with a zipper, as opposed to quilt straps.

(3) Possibly one more layer, like a fleece or wool blanket, for the coldest nights.

About moisture: First, many down sleeping bags now have DriDown (water repellent down) and/or a water repellent exterior fabric. Plus, all modern tents of any quality have roof vents to let moisture out. Moisture from your breath isn't a consideration these days. I've been using down sleeping bags for 20 years and have never had a water or moisture problem. If you have a proper tent and pitch it properly (not in a depression), you're not going to have rain coming in the tent.

 

[billiebob]

Winter, summer, a house a tent a trailer, the biggest thing is ventilating it. Getting rid of the moisture. You can do that mechanically with HRVs in tight housing, or just rely on the nature of a canvas tent wall but if you build a super tight tear drop you will suffer from moisture build up. You need a way to vent in fresh air and vent out stale, moisture rich air.

Not just to control moisture, ventilation also controls disease. Something every Arctic community is aware of.

In Canada 70 years ago it was obvious our Northern Territories were open to colonization by other countries. We had no established communities, housing or population. The Inuit were nomadic and we ignored them. They likely wish we had kept ignoring them but we needed an established population and permanent communities in order to claim and protect those resource rich lands. So we convinced the Inuit we would provide housing and communities and their homes would be safe from invasion. We went a step further, our most northern territories are barren wastelands, resource rich but incapable of supporting human life. We bribed aboriginals from northern Quebec to move there with the promise to build communities and housing and look after them...... we even told them they could hunt and fish as they always had. Then that first winter we deserted them.

But back to the issue of housing and heat and sleep thru the winter. The Inuit built new Igloos every year. They had a sunken entry virtually open all winter plus a raised hearth fire centered which vented thru a hole in the roof. Ventilation was continuous. The housing we built was not. Even with1950s technology the housing we built trapped moisture..... and disease. The big one was Tuberculosis. Canada built several hospitals to "care" for those victims. I grew up a block from one in Edmonton, the Campsell Hospital. If you ever experience seeing hundreds of people suffering from Tuberculosis you will never forget it.

And we have not learned, when in Yellowknife I supplied building packages for Northern housing. Our architects were the worst ever. They built the equivalent of R2000 energy tight housing and we shipped 350 to 700 packages every year. Small homes under 900 sqft. Incredibly tight, no HRV. To communities living off the land. With large families, extended families. Living as they had in igloos. The men went hunting and fishing, the women raised families and cooked. There was always a pot on the stove. And even at 40 below zero a window or two were open. But never venting enough for the activities and number of people in the house. Our North started to experience a resurgence of TB over the past 20 years. Housing that would work in any North American city was deadly in the North.

On to Scotland 100 years ago and the Box Bed. Essentially a TearDrop trailer less the trailer part. Parents in one, 3 or 4 kids in another. Same conditions, unvented, warm incubators for TB, and just as deadly as in Canada. I'm sure many other countries have similar experiences. But the point is VENTILATION is the most important part of keeping warm in the winter. Air changes make tiny campers safer. Sealing every leak creates unhealthy environments.



On a still night, even a winter night, I sleep with the door open. On a windy night..... well my trailer has plenty of natural air leakage.



The smaller the sleeper, the more people in it, the more important air changes, leakage are.

 

[billiebob]

When the mattress sits on the floor the temperature gradient works from outside, thru the mattress, thru the bodies sleeping on it, thru the comforters on top. Or the heated air in the camper does the reverse. The best break is lifting the mattress an inch or two and adding an air space to break that thermal conductivity link.

A condo development in Yellowknife is the best illustration of this. There were massive conflicts between the owner and contractor and the builder literally pulled the insulation from the main living floor over the garage as each stage passed inspection and used it in the next phase. We had a box of beer on the living room floor. At 40 below we heard the bottles popping as the froze and broke the bottles. That was the instance which made us drop the garage ceilings and discovered none of the condos had insulation over the garages. Yet the rooms were not cold.