DIY Offroad trailer build

Spear0

New member
This is my attempt at tte30m3’s off road camp trailer build.

To set the stage, I recently upgraded my 2006 Dodge Ram Mega Cab SRW for a 16 4Runner. The 4Runner is ************ but way smaller. Enter my need for a gear hauling Offroad trailer. I’m not making a full on overland trailer but this platform will allow me to consider a full build out later. Right now it will serve as an off-road capable, secure storage for valuable gear, base camp for weekend beach trips, and and all around utility trailer.

Thought it would be fun to document this. I have no prior welding or fabrication experience. I do have friends that are willing to show me a few things and borrow equipment. With their help along with you guys and YouTube I am hoping for success!

I really liked the build linked above so I am attempting that with a few modifications to suit my needs. If it turns out half as nice I will be beyond happy.

Day 1: picked up 2x2 120’ and 1x1 48’ TIG wire. I have cut out the frame pieces and got my final plans for the trailer. Measured the 4 runner and with the Timbren heavy duty axles the trailer tires should be inline with the 4runners. 60” x 80” for the main box. Getting that cleaned for tacks and then will figure angles for built in tongue box.
 

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Spear0

New member
So it’s been two weekends so far and I finally have actual progress. Not having the right tools has been the major issue so far, but I’m well on my way now after a few purchases and loaner tools from friends. My roommate the welder helped me this evening get my finalized main box frame tacked up. I dropped the box size back down to 48” x 76” to keep it more manageable and to avoid having seams in the floor and roof. 524157524158524159
The next step is to weld out these joints. Then I will continue framing in the tongue and tongue box before I start fabricating the top.

Lessons learned so far.
1. Working/welding on the ground sucks. Being able to access top and bottom for tack welding and to make sure steel didn’t twist is very important.

2. Cutting steel takes special tools. I went through 2 expensive metal blades on a chop saw in no time. (Thankful for box stores that take back almost anything). The issues I have had are on angled cuts not so much straight ones. (More steel being cut on angles). A good portaban is my solution so far.

3. Make a plan, write that plan down, and stick too it! Basically I’m out two weekends just from poor planning. Stick drawings do not take into account for thickness of materials...

I’m gone on a fishing trip for the next 10 days so back at it when I return. August deadline for the trailer is going to be a challenge but think I can make it.
 

brrman

New member
Lookin good! I am a fan of those Kobalt saw horses. Use mine all the time.
I have to start my project soon. Just can't find the time outside all my other stuff.
 

Spear0

New member
Trailer1.jpgTrailer2.jpgTrailer3.jpg

Its been a minute but I was recently given some motivation from the wife. Apparently I work better with deadlines and she wants to park in the garage.

The trailer has evolved a bit but has same overall concept. Last night I put the top of the frame on and welded it out. Surprised myself with how well its turned out so far. Next I will frame out the tongue box and add vertical support rails to the side wall. I realize this thing is super beefy, but I am making the most out of materials available and limited skills. I have decided to use wood sheeting coated with bed liner for the floors and walls to save cost and make it a little easier. The big question is how to attach the wood to the steel frame. My goal is to have a sealed box that will keep out dust and water, after my last trip to Utah this is a must. I'm not sure if self tapping screws would be the best option for longevity given the nature of the off road trailer. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 

Spear0

New member
Ended up ordering these 1.5” brackets and welding them to the frame to allow me to bolt the decking and walls.
My wife came out to help me slide the flooring. She likes knocking the slag off my welds and telling me which ones are bad. Progress is picking up and I’m excited to get this thing rolling.
 

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old_CWO

Well-known member
I guess I need to dig through the Dinoot store. I've looked at the trailers but hadn't seen the accessories. Thanks!

They are pretty top notch in my experience. I have their custom over-sized M416 fenders on my trailer and like them very much. Another unique and cool thing they offer is specialty sets of trailer leaf springs. They are "regular" trailer springs but much longer and softer than off the shelf stuff. Good price on custom axles too.
 

Spear0

New member
try not to judge my carpentry skills. I’ve got all of the wall, floor and roof panels cut out and ready to mount. I made a rear swing out door with 3 hinges from Lowe’s. I will share pictures later. Ended up ordering 2 RV hatch doors from the EBay. One for the front tongue box area and one forward passenger side that will allow for my 165qt cooler to slide in and out. It’s going to take some figuring to make the slide but I have found some good ideas on here and the YouTube to hopefully have success. Had a good friend donate some Monsta liner for the paint job. Next step is finish mounting the wheels and tires so I can build out the fenders and get the frame sandblasted. Then I will prime and paint the frame. Paint interior walls and wrap all ends with monsta liner. Then assemble all wall panels, floor and roof. I will figure out a way to seal the corners and joints (open for ideas) before spraying the outside with monsta liner with its final finish. D0AF78FF-8613-4467-8532-44AE6821936B.jpeg
 

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old_CWO

Well-known member
Another member here built a teardrop type trailer out of plywood and covered it with bed liner. The plywood underneath checked and cracked the bed liner coating. He ended up doing a lot of un-fun rework. It's a common situation to have the plywood do that with just a top coating, especially if stored outside. Some builders will lay a thin fiberglass mat and epoxy over the plywood to waterproof and prevent checking before applying the topcoat. Since you want to seal your edges and joints, epoxy and mat are a best practice to begin with so you're already most of the way there to 'glass over all the plywood before the Monstaliner.
 

Spear0

New member
0DDE6880-ED6A-491B-AFD5-F6B67397A404.jpeg0E61D95E-7D3E-4125-A4A2-76971ADC4254.jpeg16BB0B30-EF8B-4AA6-A507-9477F3F27EEC.jpeg9F035E5D-5489-471D-92EF-79B2E9FB193B.jpeg
roughed in my cooler slide. I borrowed some information from an old build on here and some YouTube searches. My original plan was to use the 145qt Rtic but it was too big to make work with the space I had. So the 105qt yeti will have to do. I have an rv door that it will slide through. Pretty excited on how well it turned out. Tomorrow I will finish building fenders and try to align the wheels and get her rolling.
 

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