DIY Expo Trailer Builders Q&A Thread

lacofdfireman

Adventurer
Was up until 2am reading through about 50 pages of this thread spending time in any DIY Trailer build thread I could find. I thought it would be a great idea to start a thread where people can ask some of you DIY Expo trailer builders questions. Even after about 5 straight hours of research I came away with a lot of questions. I realize it's hard to get concrete answers because every trailer is custom built to what each owner wants but there has to be some ideas on a few of my questions so let me start asking away and hopefully some of you DIYers or even those of you building military type trailers can chime in and help answer.

1. When building a trailer do you build it around your axle? Meaning do you buy your axle first then decide trailer dimensions after? Or is it the opposite. Do you build up a frame and then order an axle to fit your frame.

2. Frame building materials. I've seen everything from Square tubing to C channel to angle iron. Why did you do what you did and what size material did you use?

3. As far as the trailer tongue goes how long is optimal so you can basically jackknife without hitting tow vehicle? Also what size tongue material is used to fit your hitch on the trailer size?

4. How do you locate where to put your axle and axle hangers?

5. What is the ideal size of an off road expo trailer for an RTT raised above the lid of the trailer? And how tall should the sides be?

6. What is the typical cost breakdown of a trailer build ie Axle cost, materials cost etc?

7. Where did you source your axle from and do you use brakes or no brakes?

8. What size axle is best to use. Looks like most people buy a 3500lb. Where to buy?

9. What size leaf springs? Where to buy

These are just some of the questions I have about taking on and building a custom trailer. I'm sure I will have more but this should get me started. As I am saying this will be my first attempt and I will start a separate build thread. Just thought this would be a great place for potential builders like me to ask questions and hopefully get some interest from those of you who have been there done that giving back and answering our questions......
 

1store

Banned
When building a trailer do you build it around your axle? Meaning do you buy your axle first then decide trailer dimensions after? Or is it the opposite. Do you build up a frame and then order an axle to fit your frame
We have have all customers to try to think what they may use the trailer for in the next 10 years .Then what is your plan after you retire .
Then what do you need now and what you can add latter . Then build the frame .
THE 3500 axle cost about $50 more than a 2000 axle . YOU GET MORE BEARING heaver hubs. I know the a piece of **** tells you can use a Harbor Freight axle with there > $135 a pair Hub Adapters that you can get all day for< $65. put big tires and go . The 3500 bare axle for around $ 70.00 $50 hubs .$50 springs U-Bolt Kit $12.50
As far as the trailer tongue goes how long is optimal so you can basically jackknife without hitting tow vehicle? Also what size tongue material is used to fit your hitch on the trailer size?
Make so it slides .Not a big cost at first build the longer the tongue easier to back .then on the trail shorter . Are you going to put a boat on top .Take with you if you leave harder to have ripoff
What size leaf springs? Where to buy

Stay with stander spring easy to find and replace. Where would you get one of these baster springs if you break one on the trail . on the sizes go to what you plan to do with your trailer e-trailer red neck , rock well
 
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lacofdfireman

Adventurer
I have started my build sort of. I bought enough wheels and tires for my Jeep and trailer to use the same thing. These are Jeep JK Hard Rock take offs. I bought 10. Should have plenty of spares. Haha

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lacofdfireman

Adventurer
If you don't get what he's saying then I'm guessing your trailer build will be very interesting to watch.....

It will be an I interesting build for sure. That's the reason I started this thread So I can learn. Never tried anything like this before but if people are willing to help like most forums and I'm sure this ones the same someone can be talked through it. I'm sure that won't be the first dumb question I have. So please help a brother out and explain what he's saying. Thanks
 

SparkyDan

New member
He means the center hole of the wheel will not fit over the trailer hub. If you read through some of the builds on here from jeep owners you will see how they have overcome this problem, either use spacers or machine the center hole larger.
 

lacofdfireman

Adventurer
He means the center hole of the wheel will not fit over the trailer hub. If you read through some of the builds on here from jeep owners you will see how they have overcome this problem, either use spacers or machine the center hole larger.

Thanks for the explanation SD. I never really thought about that until I read what he said but I had read a few topics where they used these same Rubicin wheels and that issue was never brought up so I figured he was talking about something else. I do appreciate the explanation. Now I'll start searching threads and figure out the best work around for this issue before I order an axle.
 

silvrzuki77

explorer
Hey lacofdfireman, CCFD here from Nevada. Try to help answer a few questions for ya.

Since you pre bought rims and tires. Which isn't a bad thing figure out you overall design build the trailer and than order your axle. I had hummer h3 rims so I figure out what I wanted for width and set the tires to that. Since the trailer sounds small just keep the track width smaller than your tow vehicle.

Personally go with rectangular tubing its stronger all around with lighter wall thickness. For the main frame area 2x3. upright and sides use square tube. Your hitch tubing find what hitch you wanna use and plan according to that.

In my builds I set the trailer hitch to go to jackknife. My trailers were a teardrop and and my current a tent trailer with airbags/trailing arms. Good idea in the adjustable.

Since it sounds like your building a basic military trailer style. Look for mounting your axle 60/40. Should be fairly easy to move your tongue by hand.

For how tall, what ever floats your boat. Lower the better.

I bought my axle from RandP carriage. Go with brakes cheap insurance.

For springs I would go with a set of Suzuki samurai springs. Trailer springs are short and harsh. Sure you can get lighter trailer springs. I built a small trailer exactly what I think your describing and my friend has pulled it over thousand of miles Offroad and loves it.
67fd922528669150b0ab79714f213b23.jpg

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rnArmy

Adventurer
trailer specs.jpg

You asked how tall to make the sides. I'd say with the lid closed, you should be able to fit two 8-gallon Rubbermaid Action Packers on top of each other - about 24" tall total.

The old WWII military trailers were 40" x 72" at the base of the tub. I'd build the frame first, and then get the axle to match the frame and wheels/tires you plan on running.

Here's my trailer build thread - lots of info if you're wanting to build a smaller trailer: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f27/...ype-trailer-ultimate-build-up-thread-1180456/
 

lacofdfireman

Adventurer
View attachment 332788

You asked how tall to make the sides. I'd say with the lid closed, you should be able to fit two 8-gallon Rubbermaid Action Packers on top of each other - about 24" tall total.

The old WWII military trailers were 40" x 72" at the base of the tub. I'd build the frame first, and then get the axle to match the frame and wheels/tires you plan on running.

Here's my trailer build thread - lots of info if you're wanting to build a smaller trailer: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f27/...ype-trailer-ultimate-build-up-thread-1180456/

Great thread rnArmy. Tons of good info in there. I hardly think that could be considered a HF Trailer anymore with all the mods you have done to it. You don't see very many builds on here using C channel or angle iron, a few but not many. I'm new to working with metal so to me the square tubing seems to be the ticket. But I'd imagine if done right C channel or angle could be plenty strong. Most of these trailers I'd assume are way overbuilt but for good reason.. I noticed at the top of the page a sponsor on here advertises there trailers for sale. I looked at one of there build kits for like $3700 appears to be made out of C channel..
 

stomperxj

Explorer
Was up until 2am reading through about 50 pages of this thread spending time in any DIY Trailer build thread I could find. I thought it would be a great idea to start a thread where people can ask some of you DIY Expo trailer builders questions. Even after about 5 straight hours of research I came away with a lot of questions. I realize it's hard to get concrete answers because every trailer is custom built to what each owner wants but there has to be some ideas on a few of my questions so let me start asking away and hopefully some of you DIYers or even those of you building military type trailers can chime in and help answer.

1. When building a trailer do you build it around your axle? Meaning do you buy your axle first then decide trailer dimensions after? Or is it the opposite. Do you build up a frame and then order an axle to fit your frame.

2. Frame building materials. I've seen everything from Square tubing to C channel to angle iron. Why did you do what you did and what size material did you use?

3. As far as the trailer tongue goes how long is optimal so you can basically jackknife without hitting tow vehicle? Also what size tongue material is used to fit your hitch on the trailer size?

4. How do you locate where to put your axle and axle hangers?

5. What is the ideal size of an off road expo trailer for an RTT raised above the lid of the trailer? And how tall should the sides be?

6. What is the typical cost breakdown of a trailer build ie Axle cost, materials cost etc?

7. Where did you source your axle from and do you use brakes or no brakes?

8. What size axle is best to use. Looks like most people buy a 3500lb. Where to buy?

9. What size leaf springs? Where to buy

These are just some of the questions I have about taking on and building a custom trailer. I'm sure I will have more but this should get me started. As I am saying this will be my first attempt and I will start a separate build thread. Just thought this would be a great place for potential builders like me to ask questions and hopefully get some interest from those of you who have been there done that giving back and answering our questions......

1. Not necessarily but it was designed with a heavy duty axle in mind from the beginning. The axle width was dictated by the tow vehicle track width and wheel offset. I bought all the frame materials and axle at the same time.

2. Sq tubing is a good structural shape and is easy to mount things like leaf spring hangers and tongue jacks to. 2x2x.120 wall. My trailer's final weight was about 800# empty. DIY builders tend to use too heavy of material. There is absolutely no reason to use .250 wall tube on anything that weighs less than 2500lbs and/or is short like most of the expedition style military trailers on here. Complete overkill. Gusseting and fish plating can be done in high stress areas to compensate for thinner wall thickness.

3. Measure the back of your vehicle from tow ball to the out side of your bumper and add a few inches for the short length. Its pretty easy to add a coupler tube on the front so you can switch out a longer tongue or an off road coupler. Couplers come in many sizes so design your trailer and then go buy a coupler to match your tube size

4. There is an excel spreadsheet floating around that has a tongue weight calc in it. 10% is a good rule of thumb. Here is the site: http://www.angib.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/teardrop/tear81.htm

5. I can't answer this as I built a teardrop.

6. This varies so much by location its really hard to estimate a cost. Get a general material list together and call your local steel supplier and trailer supply to check pricing.

7. I sourced mine from a local Henderson Wheel Supply. I got the plates put on for brakes but never installed any.

8. 3500lb is the only way to go. The price difference is not that much. Cheap insurance in my opinion.

9. I used standard 1500lb utility trailer springs and actually took out the bottom leaf. On this same note.... run shocks. They make a big difference.

As far as designing goes... You don't need CAD software but you do need to have a plan of some sort. go buy some graph paper and sketch out your ideas. Then leave it for a week and come back and take a look. I guarantee you'll forget stuff or change your mind. Use google images and either save links to pics of ideas or save them locally in a design folder so you can refer back to them. Break it up into categories. My teardrop went through many changes during the design phase and then when I though I had it all figured out I changed a few things on the fly during the build. Learn from other peoples mistakes. Re-read build threads of trailers you like in case you missed something. Decide what you want and where you want it. Make lists. Then go build a partial mockup out of cardboard or put tape on the floor so you can see it in actual dimensions. I changed a lot of things after I saw them in actual size.

Have fun :)
Jess
 

rnArmy

Adventurer
Great thread rnArmy. Tons of good info in there. I hardly think that could be considered a HF Trailer anymore with all the mods you have done to it. You don't see very many builds on here using C channel or angle iron, a few but not many. I'm new to working with metal so to me the square tubing seems to be the ticket. But I'd imagine if done right C channel or angle could be plenty strong. Most of these trailers I'd assume are way overbuilt but for good reason.. I noticed at the top of the page a sponsor on here advertises there trailers for sale. I looked at one of there build kits for like $3700 appears to be made out of C channel..

Thanks. My little trailer has been an evolving project. Next up is a 3500lb axle (ordered) with electric brakes, and an aluminum tray for the lid.

I think C-channel would be fine for building most small (WWII type) expedition-type trailers. I wouldn't use angle for framing though.

A lot of what factors into building a little expedition-type trailer (again; I'm talking a WWII type/sized trailer) is budget and experience. If you're on a limited budget, and welding isn't your thing, then modifying a Harbor Freight type trailer is a very good option. A 4x8' HF trailer cut down to 40" x 60 or 72" long makes a great base to start from. If you can measure, cut, and drill you can modify and reinforce one of these HF trailers to be quite HD off-road. And it is quite the fun project.

And here - here's a trailer starter kit for way less than $3700 ($1530 to be exact): http://www.kaiserwillys.com/product/1718/willys-jeep-body-trailer-pickup-bed-parts-accessories Add suspension, axle, wheels/tires, wiring/lights and you're about done. It sure beats trying to resurrect a rusted trailer hulk from the dead.

Axles are relatively cheap; you can get one the length you want to match your wheels' bolt pattern and tires, springs are relatively cheap, and you'd probably have to rewire an old military type trailer anyways.
 
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