DIY Composite Flatbed Camper Build

Le-Doctor

New member
Made jack mounting brackets out of aluminum.
Since these points will take the most stress when lifting, I had planned on bolting
all the way through to the inside. However, this did not work out since I used a smaller
L bracket "3inch" instead of 4. I needed a right angle to fit snug against the 4 inch exterior.
They only make 3 inch. Had I gone to 4, the inner angle would curve and not fit.
I ended up attaching by using the Sika and stainless lag bolts to attach the brackets
to the exterior L channel.
I had my concerns, but after lifting and mounting the camper, I felt better.
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First of all - GREAT thread - really helpful and much appreciated -

I am just starting out on a similar build - i have struggled to find legs - where did you source yours from if i may ask?
 

rruff

Explorer
any recommendations? How did the cheaper foam attest to time?

I can't tell you. I didn't have any particular issues with the XPS but I switched to PVC foam (bought from Carbon Core). I actually started over with a different design. The PVC foam is way more expensive (>$3500 for the whole camper), but also a much stronger foam and epoxy sticks to it very well.

Wet layup isn't a bad way to go, but if you want a nice "automotive finish" (like Terra Ops' camper) I think it would be too much work. Lots if filling and fairing and sanding.
 

Terra Ops

Adventurer
First of all - GREAT thread - really helpful and much appreciated -

I am just starting out on a similar build - i have struggled to find legs - where did you source yours from if i may ask?

Thanks and hope you enjoy your build.
As for the "legs", I don't remember where I ordered from. If you do a search for Rieco Wireless Remote Controlled Electric Jacks, several options are available.
 

Terra Ops

Adventurer
Update on using the Loctite Premium PL Max.
Using regular 3/4 inch foam board that had the clear film "removed" and lightly sanded and leftover FRP also sanded.
Dimensions of the panel--- 36" x 13". This time I allowed the glue to dry almost a week just to be sure. I must say I'm impressed
with the results. Very rigid panel and supported my weight of 200lbs. I bounced on it a little and it flexed some, not much. I have not tried to
break it. It seems to be comparable to the epoxy. I have seen other builds on you tube using similar product and various "sandwich" material like
wood and aluminum siding. This application may open the panel construction to different methods.
Pros of the Loctite; easy to source, 1 part application "no mixing", large temperature range of application and easy adhesion of FRP to foam.
Cons; little more labor to trial on but works best when pre heated, and may not be cheaper than the epoxy. I calculate 1 tube will cover approx. 8 square feet.
There are different levels of strength for this product and a lesser may suffice thus costing less.
 

rruff

Explorer
It's a moisture curing adhesive, and it has a hard time finding moisture in between two waterproof materials. Misting it with water right before putting the pieces together should help it cure faster.

The MAX version is expensive, and it looks like it's only available in 9oz tubes? Just looking at HD, for the regular PL Premium 28oz 12 packs work out to ~$37/gallon, so not that expensive. Titebond Fast Set PU adhesive is another option that gets better reviews and costs the same as PLP.

BTW, that 3/4" un-spec'd foam with the film on it is pretty weak stuff. The 25psi is much better.
 

Terra Ops

Adventurer
The MAX version is expensive, and it looks like it's only available in 9oz tubes? Just looking at HD, for the regular PL Premium 28oz 12 packs work out to ~$37/gallon, so not that expensive. Titebond Fast Set PU adhesive is another option that gets better reviews and costs the same as PLP.

BTW, that 3/4" un-spec'd foam with the film on it is pretty weak stuff. The 25psi is much better.
[/QUOTE]

Yes it is but it dries solid and supposedly the strongest. May be stronger than needed.
BTW, that 3/4" un-spec'd foam with the film on it is pretty weak stuff Exactly why I used it for the test. Pretty cool to see 3 flimsy pieces come together to be so strong.
Thanks for the Titebond reference. I'll need to check that out. Just don't want it setting up too fast.
 

Terra Ops

Adventurer
If I was to hack an inexpensive AC for a small camper I think the Midea U Inverter 8K BTU Window Unit would be a good start. Modern compressor, only $340, can fairly easily separate as it is basically a mini-split. Obviously does not solve the heating issue. Here is a video of a guy separating one. Otherwise I'd use a Pioneer 22 Seer 9k Mini-split to get both heat and cooling for $870. Still have inverter loss for both these solutions as they are 120V AC.


This is interesting; Amazon.com: ACDC 12V Air Conditioner, Battery Powered, 6000 BTU, 20 SEER, R134A Refrigerant, Complete Mini-Split A/C with 10ft Rubber Hose Installation Kit and Mounting Bracket: Appliances
 

Terra Ops

Adventurer
Got to know the rig a little better with our day trip to NC HWY 105. North Carolina Highway 105 - Wikipedia
This was a beautiful ride along a mountain ridge overlooking the Linville Gorge. The road unexpectedly turned
to ice and nearly stranded us. Had to back up first hill to get turned around, see my son's video. The next hill we got to the top
and slid backwards at least 30 to 40 yards to the ditch before stopping. Second attempt the same thing. Third attempt success.
This was by far the scariest experience I've had in years. I did however learn by reducing air bag psi and deflating tires to around 30 psi, the rig
almost floats over the wash boards, bumps, and pot holes. Very happy with the performance of the diesel and 4 wheel drive.
Highway 105 NC Icy Road Cummins Overland Camper - YouTube
 

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Jonnyo

Observer
Update on using the Loctite Premium PL Max.
Using regular 3/4 inch foam board that had the clear film "removed" and lightly sanded and leftover FRP also sanded.
Dimensions of the panel--- 36" x 13". This time I allowed the glue to dry almost a week just to be sure. I must say I'm impressed
with the results. Very rigid panel and supported my weight of 200lbs. I bounced on it a little and it flexed some, not much. I have not tried to
break it. It seems to be comparable to the epoxy. I have seen other builds on you tube using similar product and various "sandwich" material like
wood and aluminum siding. This application may open the panel construction to different methods.
Pros of the Loctite; easy to source, 1 part application "no mixing", large temperature range of application and easy adhesion of FRP to foam.
Cons; little more labor to trial on but works best when pre heated, and may not be cheaper than the epoxy. I calculate 1 tube will cover approx. 8 square feet.
There are different levels of strength for this product and a lesser may suffice thus costing less.


i was playing with PL Premium and made a 0.040 aluminum/ 1'' foam/ 0.040 aluminum panel. I felt like it wasnt the best adhesion as it was dry and cold when i made it. didnt mist any water. I dried for a week and as i was walking outside, i decide to destroy the panel. it s 10'' x 24'' and it didnt flex when i put my 200lbs on it. i had to jump on it 4 times on one leg to have it break. The interesting part is it seems like it s perhaps the PL premium to aluminum that failed? or perhaps it fail only because the aluminum bended a lot? lower panel had no damage. i peel the foam as much as i could. overall, i would say it was solid. The glue is very hard to removed where the panel isnt bend. also...i jump on the panel at a 25 degres F temp so the panel was cold. not sure if that do anything?
thumbnail_image2.jpg



I just made another one last night with 0.04 alu/ 1'' foam/ 1/8 wood and this time, i misted some water on top of the glue. This panel seems EXTREMELY strong. about the same dimension and i step on it and there is no flex currently. i will give it a few more days before i start jumping on it hard to break it. Misting water seems to have made a important difference in how well the aluminum attached evenly.

destruction tomorrow!
 

Canlib

Member
I'm glad this experimentation with diy composite panels is continuing. I still really like the concept. I haven't reread all 36 pages, but I did a test last weekend in preparation for putting the 1/8" Birch ply on the interior of my camper. I wanted a tube-on material to help bond the ply to the foam in places where the seams aren't on a stud where I'm using VHB tape. I had Sika construction adhesive and Loctite PL 300 foam board adhesive open so I stuck a couple of 1" strips of ply to a scrap of blue XPS from the hardware store. The ply was Varathaned and the board had no surface prep. A day later the Sika pulled cleanly off the foam and I can't get the PL 300 experiment apart....broke the plywood.
 

Terra Ops

Adventurer
do you remember what glue did you use to joint the foam peice together to before you did the lamination?

Loctite premium pl bonds to foam and other materials. Loctite® PL Premium® Polyurethane Construction Adhesive (loctiteproducts.com)

Sikaflex 252 does not bond to foam or some plastic. Sikaflex®-252

I have recently made a panel with FRP skin and XPS foam using the loctite. Very impressed with result.
The sikaflex 252 is used to bond the panel(frp skin) to the aluminum angle.
 

Jonnyo

Observer
Loctite premium pl bonds to foam and other materials. Loctite® PL Premium® Polyurethane Construction Adhesive (loctiteproducts.com)

Sikaflex 252 does not bond to foam or some plastic. Sikaflex®-252

I have recently made a panel with FRP skin and XPS foam using the loctite. Very impressed with result.
The sikaflex 252 is used to bond the panel(frp skin) to the aluminum angle.

yep, i wish i could find some FRP locally to try what you did. So far, only aluminum here at acceptable price.

do you remember how many tube of sikaflex 252 total did you used for your build?
 

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