DIY Composite Flatbed Camper Build

Kbeideman

New member
Been following this from the beginning. I work at an large RV dealership in the northeast US. It's not quite the same situation, but when we do body repairs on fiberglass skinned (filon) units we use 3M Fastbond 30-NF to adhere the new skin the insulation/structure underneath. Most of the time the insulation is just XPS and the frame is wood or aluminum. 30-NF is water based, but as long as the unit is sealed well it holds up pretty well. I can't give an ideas on its adhesion strength to the XPS, but I have never seen it pull away.
 

Terra Ops

Adventurer
Several years back when I was looking for panels, I came across a refrigeration truck manufacturer in Atlanta. They used a 3M product to bond the panels. Never got the name of it, but I remember it being a blueish color. I wonder if this product provides the same rigidity as the epoxy. Looks like it would save time and money. May have to give this a test.
 

Kbeideman

New member
Several years back when I was looking for panels, I came across a refrigeration truck manufacturer in Atlanta. They used a 3M product to bond the panels. Never got the name of it, but I remember it being a blueish color. I wonder if this product provides the same rigidity as the epoxy. Looks like it would save time and money. May have to give this a test.

3M 30-NF is blueish-greenish in color. We've been using it for years and havent had many comebacks with it. Most of the comebacks are from roof leaks that get behind the filon. It is very quick and easy to use.
 

Terra Ops

Adventurer
3M 30-NF is blueish-greenish in color. We've been using it for years and havent had many comebacks with it. Most of the comebacks are from roof leaks that get behind the filon. It is very quick and easy to use.

So I gave this a try.....very sticky strong adhesive, but not rigid at all. It was not the blueish green color, however it seems they offer it in neutral too.

Also gave loctite premium pl a try. Initial test was promising but failed to the glue not being 100% dry. Will have to give this another test.
 

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Stingy49

Member
In my continued panel research I've come across several panel manufacturers that say single component polyurethane WITHOUT solvents works for foam panel construction. Many SIPs manufactures seem to use it.
 

DzlToy

Explorer
This adheres well to XPS, but you will need a vacuum table or massive amounts of weight to keep the skin from floating up on the glue.


It is a 100% polyurethane adhesive similar to Gorilla Glue.
 

Terra Ops

Adventurer
With winter here I usually put a ceramic space heater in the camper to protect the lithium batteries.
This year I tried an air dryer since it gives off some heat and uses about the same energy as a light bulb.
Temps dropped into the mid 20's and camper temp was 50 degrees. This has me wondering if there is an alternative heat source that uses
less energy and takes up less space than my current propex heater.
Here are a few that I've found. Any body have thoughts or experiences?

Amaze 250-Watt Convection and Radiant Wall Mount Electric Space Heater in the Electric Space Heaters department at Lowes.com

Royal Sovereign 260-Watt Infrared Flat Panel Electric Space Heater in the Electric Space Heaters department at Lowes.com

Heat Storm 1000-Watt Infrared Cabinet Electric Space Heater with Remote Included in the Electric Space Heaters department at Lowes.com

DC Thermal SSHEATER DC Powered Polymer Composite Heater - 12Volt-Travel® (12volt-travel.com)

Here is the air-dryer currently in the camper.
 

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rruff

Explorer
Here are a few that I've found. Any body have thoughts or experiences?

Electric heaters are all ~100% efficient. Watts in = watts of heat. They aren't normally used in campers because it takes a lot of solar to keep the whole camper warm on cold nights.

The most efficient place to put it would be inside the thing you want to keep warm, and then keep that thing well insulated. With your batteries you'd want an insulated box with the heater inside. For your body heated clothing is best. If you want to heat your whole camper, it won't matter much.
 

Terra Ops

Adventurer
Electric heaters are all ~100% efficient. Watts in = watts of heat. They aren't normally used in campers because it takes a lot of solar to keep the whole camper warm on cold nights.

The most efficient place to put it would be inside the thing you want to keep warm, and then keep that thing well insulated. With your batteries you'd want an insulated box with the heater inside. For your body heated clothing is best. If you want to heat your whole camper, it won't matter much.

I agree, they are not "normally" used in campers with low R value and high energy consumption. However, with 2" thick composite panels, it does not take much to heat and maintain.
So is it overkill to use my propex heater? The propane and heater take up space and weight and also require plumbing. It does use very little energy at 1.4 amps.
An infrared panel, "if viable" can be placed virtually any where and uses 3.3 amps. A thermostat would control unit so it's not on constantly.
Several years ago I noticed such panels in a infrared sauna and thought of using them in a RV. Couldn't ever find anything then. I may have to order this and give it a go.
Wexstar WS-4WUS Infrared Panel Heater 400W White - - Amazon.com
 

DzlToy

Explorer
From my camper notes:

Far infrared ceiling panels, made in WA: https://www.heatinggreen.com/product/solaray-heater/

Research Far-Infrared Heating mats from companies like Arkon in Canada and WarmUp.

I also considered embedding these in a ceiling, floor or wall to create levels or zones of heating. Depending on the heating load, battery state, plug in availability, etc., you could choose which panel(s) you wanted to activate. Due to the lack of floor space in most small campers, radiant "floor" heating does not make much sense. https://www.thermosoft.com/en-US/radiant-under-floor-heating/for-laminate-engineered-wood
 

rruff

Explorer
So is it overkill to use my propex heater?

It would be for me... ;) I lived in my truck for 13 years and never had a heater; rarely under freezing though since I moved with seasons. More upscale now with a small propane lamp. It's true that a very well insulated rig doesn't need much heat to raise the temperature 10-20F, and that's enough for me... just wear a coat, hat, etc inside. When sleeping I use a good bag and get up with the sunrise.

If you want to use electric, I think getting a heating pad and sticking under your coat at night would be pretty efficient.
 

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