DIY Composite Camper T100 Expedition Vehicle Build

[Third]

I can see a captured spring mount on that M1079, yet on a smaller Rig/Pickup? I have hard point mounts (6) and have no issues so far. I also don't cross terrain like you do! If I did, I might do something along those lines. The issue I avoided was connecting the Cab/Cabin. There's where I saw potential of flex damage/cracking occurring.

Bottom line for me.. can't hurt to do it, yet I don't see a personal reason for mine.

P.S. Came close to pulling the trigger on a M1078 last season. I now wish I had.. $$ has gone nuts since!

I'll carry a little cracker box welder just in case a weld breaks. Not that I don't trust my "metal gluing skillz" but I am still learning.

ymmv

 

[Traveling 2gether Journal]

Here's the "why".
*not my truck, but identical

Keep in mind that this truck actually has two hardened frames as well as one subframe. It's considered to be a "slight" flex compared to some...

Have you attempted to measure the amount of flex in your frame? how much twist over what length of the frame?

I tried to get a thread started a while back to collect this information, but not many had it or wanted to share it I guess.

I attempted a flex test on my truck by jacking the divers side rear tire up off the ground until the passenger side rear also lifted. The back 8 feet of frame showed 3/8 inch of flex.

As a reference TernOverland posted that he measured 3 inches of flex over 6 feet of frame in his Tacoma when performing a similar test.

This is obviously not a perfect test since it doesn't account for the aded weight of the camper or any stiffening that will occur from the rear bumper and storage I plan to build onto the frame.

Plans have changed and I will only be mounting to the back 6 feet of the frame, so will actually experience less of that flex, but over a shorter distance.

Not saying you are wrong (but I'm hoping you are) ?

 

[rruff]

Agreed for an off-road rig. It would be simple enough to add a set of captured springs onto the forward portion of the frame.

No... the frame on those military trucks are designed to flex like crazy. The T100 has a stiff frame which makes mounting a lot simpler.

 

[RJ Howell]

I attempted a flex test on my truck by jacking the divers side rear tire up off the ground until the passenger side rear also lifted. The back 8 feet of frame showed 3/8 inch of flex.

I'll try that as well! Be interesting what I see. I have the cabin off right now as I go through repairs and needed maintenance. I think if we had a 'solid' cabin, it might a difference/issue. By having a 'lift-top', we may be getting away with more flex.

P.S. While the back is off ad easy to get to, good time to oil up the interior of the frame. That was just one todays task for me!

 

[rruff]

By having a 'lift-top', we may be getting away with more flex.

If your main frame is open C, it flexes a lot. If it's rectangular tubes then it will be stiff. If your subframe is stout tubular steel and is hard mounted to the frame, that can add a lot of stiffness too.

 

[Alloy]

Shapes to resits twisting/torsion ....Best to Worst ..... Round - Square - Rectangle - I beam - Channel - Angle - Flat

 

[RJ Howell]

Shapes to resits twisting/torsion ....Best to Worst ..... Round - Square - Rectangle - I beam - Channel - Angle - Flat

Have to think you may be an ME by the post. Aye? If so, we may have more questions for ya!

 

[Third]

Have you attempted to measure the amount of flex in your frame? how much twist over what length of the frame?

I tried to get a thread started a while back to collect this information, but not many had it or wanted to share it I guess.

I attempted a flex test on my truck by jacking the divers side rear tire up off the ground until the passenger side rear also lifted. The back 8 feet of frame showed 3/8 inch of flex.

As a reference TernOverland posted that he measured 3 inches of flex over 6 feet of frame in his Tacoma when performing a similar test.

This is obviously not a perfect test since it doesn't account for the aded weight of the camper or any stiffening that will occur from the rear bumper and storage I plan to build onto the frame.

Plans have changed and I will only be mounting to the back 6 feet of the frame, so will actually experience less of that flex, but over a shorter distance.

Not saying you are wrong (but I'm hoping you are) ?

I have never measured mine. I do plan to do so, once while I have the box off to mount one of the water tanks and again after the buildout is complete.

In both instances it will be using a fork truck to do the lift.

It's more for peace of mind...and curiosity.

 

[b dkw1]

Shapes to resits twisting/torsion ....Best to Worst ..... Round - Square - Rectangle - I beam - Channel - Angle - Flat

Tested singularly yes, but the whole thing changes in a frame construction.

As noted above the T100 frames are tanks. In addition to being boxed they have internal bulkheads.

The cabs are also very sturdy, lot's of places in the A and B pillars are 3 layers of sheetmetal thick.

 

[Alloy]

Tested singularly yes, but the whole thing changes in a frame construction.

As noted above the T100 frames are tanks. In addition to being boxed they have internal bulkheads.

The cabs are also very sturdy, lot's of places in the A and B pillars are 3 layers of sheetmetal thick.

Yes, if the frame construction produces a hollow section. Despite rounds being ideal they are avoided due to the difficulty of fabrication. Three layers of sheet metal might used to increase the strength of a connection.

 

[RJ Howell]

Food for thought and only that.. I have my rig back in my yard after extensive re-work and putting the camper box back on. That's the food-for-thought item.

My mechanic works with me very well, yet his lift is limited (as would most be). I did setup to unbolt if required and remove, not knowing why then. What I didn't do was setup an easier lift system. My mind is running as to what I might do for a bracket to hold a lift/jack when required.

Just passing something I have run into I'd like to have better.

 

[Traveling 2gether Journal]

Food for thought and only that.. I have my rig back in my yard after extensive re-work and putting the camper box back on. That's the food-for-thought item.

My mechanic works with me very well, yet his lift is limited (as would most be). I did setup to unbolt if required and remove, not knowing why then. What I didn't do was setup an easier lift system. My mind is running as to what I might do for a bracket to hold a lift/jack when required.

Just passing something I have run into I'd like to have better.

I was thinking about this too. Mine will be easily unbolted, but removing/reinstalling it will be a pain. I think I have room near the front mounts to slide a piece of 1x2 steel between the truck and the subframe, so the idea is to get a heavy piece of 1x2 long enough to stick out well past the tire on both sides and support it with jack stands. The rear subframe will be easily accessed and supported with jack stands, so if I jack up the truck, put the stands and 1x2 tubing in place, then lower the tuck the camper should be supported above the truck and I should be able to drive the truck out from under the camper. That's the idea anyway. Little brackets and jack stand extensions can be welded up to make things a little easier/safer.

 

[rruff]

My mind is running as to what I might do for a bracket to hold a lift/jack when required.

I kinda like the idea of these, though I've never used them (Brophy cable jacks). They are designed for lifting the sides of a slide-in camper, but should work for one that is flatbed style. You need to provide a spot to lift near the CG of the camper, which could be inconvenient for some designs.

 

[RJ Howell]

I did much like your thinking Matt! Quite the PITA, yet worked.

 

[Traveling 2gether Journal]

I did much like your thinking Matt! Quite the PITA, yet worked.

I'll have to take it on and off the truck a couple times during the build, but I'm not anticipating needing to remove it often after that, so I can deal with PITA, but doable.