Diy alaskan camper style build

Psparks

New member
I have been tossing around the idea of trying to build a 7ft nco alaskan style camper basic shell nothing fancy. I feel like it would be pretty easy if I could source aluminum siding, and trim for the unit. Another area of concern is finding a system to raise it. Possible topper lift. I don't think this would be that hard. Any suggestions on sourcing materials? I feel like this could be done at a considerably cheaper price but I may be wrong.
 

DzlToy

Explorer
"Add Lightness" - Colin Chapman

I recently did some calculations for another member interested in a very similar project. Using DIY composite SIPs, the weight was under 300 pounds for an empty shell with the following dimensions: (design type is slide in, pop top, like 4WC or Alaskan)

120" long roof, including cabover bed
70" long base for use with a small pickup
60" overall height with roof collapsed
78" inside with roof raised
Roof weight is under 50 pounds = no lift cylinders or tracks needed. Get inside and do a squat press.

Weight assumed full panels, i.e. no soft top fabric, water tanks, appliances, internal furniture, mattress, etc., It is literally just a SIP shell with a manually lifted roof.

Foam used for modeling was 1" thick XPS in 1.5 PPCF density. This is a lightweight non-structural foam, to save space and money. I am not suggesting that you go this route, just giving you an example from some drawings that happened to be sitting on my desk. Radiant barrier coatings work well in small spaces and reduce the need for thick walls, which add cost, weight and reduce interior volume. There are 100 ways to skin this cat.

If you are handy, have some tools and a place to work, you can build this camper pretty easily. Depending on your budget and skill set, angle, channel, mouldings, and even pre-made SIPs can be purchased. A local machine shop can brake 16-18 gauge sheet metal cheaper than you can buy pre-made angle iron in many cases. Heavy gauge material is not needed to keep brush off and seal up joints.

Avoid wood if at all possible. It is heavy, it rots, bugs eat it and it molds and warps. Ask anyone who has ever attempted to restore an old Alaskan or a 70s/80s RV.
 

carewarner

New member
Dear Colin,

I too am looking to build an Alaskan style pop-up camper and am VERY interested in seeing the details of constructing what you're talking about in your comments above. I don't see the drawings you speak of (will you post them?), but the extremely light weight and lack of needing a lift mechanism to raise the roof that you speak of are EXACTLY what I'm wanting to build! The main things I don't like about the Alaskan are: 1) the cost!, 2) the weight, 3) all the rot prone, heavy wood, and 4) the east/west bed that has two lift bars that further impede getting into and out of the bed even after you've crawled over the top of your spouse! My husband is 70 and I am 60, and we don't want to have to perform acrobatics or wake each other up just to get in and out of our bed.

What I want to build is what the Alaskan has in a hard sided pop up, but without the rot prone wood and weight, a north/south queeen bed, and my own kitchen, bathroom & layout design, etc. For example, I will be putting in a chest style frig that pulls out like a drawer to greatly increase energy efficiency, an on demand hot water heater, a small indoor shower pan area with a composting toilet that can inhabit that area yet be taken out when the space is being used for a shower, etc.

I'm new to this group and joined specifically because I read your response and want the details and information about your design, and input from others with good ideas and more experience than I have with projects like this. I'm also looking forward to everyone else's posts and input as it's obvious the folks in this group have much to share and contribute! Please let me know if you're a consultant who charges for plans like these (and your contact info) or if you're willing to share all the details outright. I'm keen to get started on this project right away!

Many thanks,
Carole Warner

And into the forest I go; to lose my mind and find my soul. Unknown
 
Last edited:

Darwin

Explorer
Carole, since it sounds like you are on a tight budget, you might consider using wood that has had epoxy applied to it, like how a boat is built sometimes. There is a member here IdaSho that built a hardsided camper using this method, you might be able to apply it to an alaskan hard sided style camper build.

The other option is see if you can increase your budget and go with a composite foam core panel system.
 

javajoe79

Fabricator
Mine hinges at one end but the top nests down over the lower section like an AK camper. Mine is all aluminum and foam. Lifting is done by gear motors and screw jacks. I am planning on sealing the two halves with webbing that wipes the inner wall of the upper half. It's my understanding that this is how the AK campers are done.
 

hcalvin

New member
I just started on the body of mine doing a Alaskan Skyler for my Tacoma trying to make it light weight. For siding I'm going go with aluminum that they use for enclosed trailers. It is not to bad to find. And the interior is going be 1/8 plywood coated a epoxy sealant like what is used on log cabins. The hard part I am facing is how I want to lift and guide my roof.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20200817_135032.jpg
    IMG_20200817_135032.jpg
    2 MB · Views: 99

Canlib

Member
I am starting down the same path to build an aluminum frame Alaskan for my long bed Chevy Colorado. I would have preferred composite panels but can't find a supplier and after reading PODs thread have no desire to try making my own.

Hcalvin what size and gauge is your top beam?

I'd recommend having a look at https://expeditionportal.com/forum/posts/2822309/. Andrew has done a great job with this camper and it is on the road.
 

hcalvin

New member
Every thing is 1x1 1/8 thick and the top beam is 3x1 1/8 thick. The floor is going be 3/4 plywood. So far I'm around 160 lbs of aluminium. Goal is to keep it under 800lbs. Just trying to figure out lifting the roof.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20200822_192729.jpg
    IMG_20200822_192729.jpg
    2.1 MB · Views: 101

carewarner

New member
Carole, since it sounds like you are on a tight budget, you might consider using wood that has had epoxy applied to it, like how a boat is built sometimes. There is a member here IdaSho that built a hardsided camper using this method, you might be able to apply it to an alaskan hard sided style camper build.

The other option is see if you can increase your budget and go with a composite foam core panel system.
Hi Collin,

Hmmm, not sure why you think I'm on a tight budget or why you would suggest wood when I said I do NOT want to use wood. Maybe you were thinking about someone else's comment but responded to mine? Actually, a composite foam core panel system is exactly what I'd like to use because of its lightness combined with strength. Can you recommend a company that makes suitable panels in the 1 - 2" thickness range?

Many thanks for your thoughts and suggestions.

Carole
 

rruff

Explorer
Actually, a composite foam core panel system is exactly what I'd like to use because of its lightness combined with strength. Can you recommend a company that makes suitable panels in the 1 - 2" thickness range?

Total Composites sells kits, but I don't think they sell just the panels. Contact them and see.

I've been buying PVC foam from these guys. https://www.carbon-core.com/products/laminated-panels/composite/

Even though they show foam cored panels, those aren't available in the online store, so may not be available in small quantities. They do have the plastic honeycomb cored panels though: https://www.carbon-core.com/products/laminated-panels/composite/
The plastic honeycomb panels have poorer insulation, but good specs otherwise.

If you want to make your own panels (most people buy composite skins and glue them to a foam core), I'd recommend using their PVC foam... it's much stronger than the cheap XPS you can buy locally. Epoxy sticks to it much better as well. It's expensive (1" 45.5x96.5 sheets are $131) but a whole lot cheaper than Divinycell! Shipping was reasonable; flat rate of ~$300 as I recall and free if you buy a lot.

My panels are 1.5" foam and 33oz/sq yd hand laid fiberglass and epoxy each side. The foam and each skin weighs ~.5 lb/sq ft each, so 1.5 lb/sq ft total. That's probably a good weight to shoot for.
 

DzlToy

Explorer
Caveat Emptor in re: Carbon Core. They have had some serious delamination and voiding issues in the past. You are MUCH better off making your own panels or working with a local boat builder, airplane manufacturer or composites shop. You can learn something, control quality and costs. Carbon Core and Total Composites are both made in China. Save some bunker oil and keep your funds in the States. Otherwise RRuff hit the nail on the head.

If you are interested in a truly custom panel, professionally made in the States, contact Plascore in Zeeland, Michigan. They will make you anything you want. If you are interested in an inferior product for a cheap price, there are lots of other folks for you to talk to. That is akin to buying oats that have already been through the horse, in my opinion.
 

rruff

Explorer
Plascore in Zeeland, Michigan.

Any idea what they cost?

I'd be interested in your bad experiences with Carbon Core if you are willing to share. I haven't had any issues buying foam from them, and I *think* they are sending me what I ordered. It occurred to me that they could be sending me PU foam and I wouldn't know the difference... :unsure:
 

Forum statistics

Threads
185,533
Messages
2,875,597
Members
224,922
Latest member
Randy Towles
Top