Overlandtowater’s solid axle suburban

Overlandtowater

Well-known member
Thanks rayra I have the prefect soldering pin for that use. as far as the oil O have 500 miles on the synthetic and I'm changing back to the conventional. I hate changing gaskets by the way.
 

Overlandtowater

Well-known member
Bye Bye station wagon, H2 springs and keys. Shift kit to help improve line pressure and quicken the shifts, I still got to pick up the universal trans cooler. Knock sensor, wiring harness and intake gaskets I hope the intake is not full of oil when I pull it off....if so I will pick up or make a oil separator for the PCV line....and then a fuel pump the P.O. said if he let it run below a 1/4tank it would quit, I pushed it to a little under a 1/4 but never had it die. Thought I would just change it for the peace of mind, and who knows when the weather warms up it might have quit sooner.KIMG0819[1].JPGKIMG0818[1].JPGKIMG0821[1].JPGKIMG0820[1].JPG
 
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Overlandtowater

Well-known member
Also been picking up a bunch of camping stuff at ...a........um.......walmart... they have a bunch of stuff on clearance a couple of hammocks for 5 bucks, couple of Ozark trail mess kits for 5 bucks, a Stanley mess kit for 5 bucks, also picked up a bamboo cutting board and utensils from Ikea and some other stuff... also stopped by the ranger station and picked up a few of MVUM maps for the local areas.KIMG0824[1].JPGKIMG0823[1].JPG
 
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Overlandtowater

Well-known member
Changed the oil last night with conventional and a wix filter instead of the fram, fired it up and oil pressure never dropped below 38~ no more knocks...idled that way for well over 30 minutes....I forgot I had it running..KIMG0833[1].JPG
 
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Overlandtowater

Well-known member
Got the H2 coils put in the rear also. My helper had a blast while I changed the oil he rolled around under the suburban the whole time, I let him take off all the hub caps he felt like he completed the whole job I loved it. The Lt springs measured 15 1/4" the H2 springs measured 17 7/8", I disconnected the shocks and sway bar links and still had to put a bottle jack between the axle and frame to get the H2 spring in. The 265 look tiny in the wheel wells now.KIMG0828[1].JPGKIMG0831[1].JPGKIMG0832[1].JPGKIMG0835[1].JPGKIMG0836[1].JPG
 
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Martinjmpr

Wiffleball Batter
Hey, I'm curious, what was the part number for those H2 springs? Reason I ask is they look a lot like the Z71 springs I put in mine. Just wondering if they are the same.

Here's the photo of my side-by-side spring comparison:

504562

About the only difference is that the H2 seems to have closer coils at one end (progressive spring?) but then again that may also be due to the angle of the photo.

The amount of lift I got is also roughly similar to what you have (this was with the original tires/wheels, 17" 265/70/17)

504564
 

CrazyDrei

Space Monkey
Hey, I'm curious, what was the part number for those H2 springs? Reason I ask is they look a lot like the Z71 springs I put in mine. Just wondering if they are the same.

Here's the photo of my side-by-side spring comparison:

View attachment 504562

About the only difference is that the H2 seems to have closer coils at one end (progressive spring?) but then again that may also be due to the angle of the photo.

The amount of lift I got is also roughly similar to what you have (this was with the original tires/wheels, 17" 265/70/17)

View attachment 504564

Martinjmpr,

Looks like the height is the same between the Suburban Z71/towing coil and the H2 rear coils. H2 coils do look like they progressive unlike the traditional Suburban coil springs.


Video of H2 coils in the H2 and the coils look closer together at the top than at the bottom.
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
I think the tighter coils on the ends are to match the seating areas for the springs and the diameter of the flat rubber shims. The springs are billed as 'progressive rate', but that must be some form of differential heating / annealing on portions of the spring. And the larger diameter of the body of the spring is a good fit for air bags.
Somewhere I've seen a side by side of Sub / Z71 /H2 and the Z71 fell about in the middle, closer to the H2.
I haven't been able to find a specific Z71/tow spring part number. But I didn't look very hard. I just punted and put spacers in.
 

Overlandtowater

Well-known member
yes the h2 coils a progressive, they seem to be a stiffer spring the coils are larger in wire diameter. the feel stiffer too but whe will see after a break n period. I picked up Cardone springs bought at rockauto. Looking at the tape it looks like the H2s are almost an inch longer than the z71 springs in the picture. In the video I think he puts the coils in upside down, from what I've looked at on progressive springs the tighter coils go to the bottom.KIMG0837[1].JPG
 
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Overlandtowater

Well-known member
also the trans cooler I picked up...it might be a little big 12" x 15" x 1.5". My truck does have the factory trans cooler but its tiny in comparison.KIMG0825[1].JPGKIMG0826[1].JPGKIMG0827[1].JPG
 
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rayra

Expedition Leader
Yep, tiny and in a terrible location, half-blocked by the grill emblem. I went big and now my trans temps are rarely more than 40deg over ambient. And that's with it still plumbed thru the radiator tank (cooler added post-radiator, in the return line). When it's freezing out I'm legit worried my trans isn't warm enough. After reading many accounts where the 4L60E is driven past 275F for long periods then fails, I'm very happy with the new temp ranges. MUCH more margin to spare, instead of the radiator temp of 195-205F. I'm getting 80deg or more room to stress the transmission on long highway grades / mountain passes. I go thru the two biggest north of L.A. fairly regularly, the Grapevine (4000') and the Conejo Grade (just 3000', but it's a looong climb and often in heavy traffic). In the heat of a SoCal summer I don't have to worry about killing it anymore. At least not from heat. I still drive a 6000# vehicle with 140k mi way too hard / fast on those grades

transcooler11.jpg


transcooler57.jpg


I finally trimmed those extra hose loops and cut the factory metal lines and put compression fittings on them with a proper hose barb. No more rubbing concerns.
 
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jonb8

Adventurer
Did you do a dirty measurement and see how much you got in the rear? I went with the z71 springs, I was worried H2 springs would be to much...
 

Overlandtowater

Well-known member
Sorry Jonb8 I did not I was to exited to get them put in...sorry but after I get the front done I will take a all 4 measurement. It might be a little while I'm having side effect from some medicine after a surgery so I'm afraid I'm on standby for a little while.
 

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